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lee157
Member Since: 01 Oct 2008
Location: in the middle
Posts: 557
  
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stapldm wrote:Anyone know where the harness connector that feeds the front valve block is? Sounds to me like the car is trying and failing to deflate the front bags...
This sounds quite possible to me.
I mentioned before it has just come back from the dealers and they have jet washed it, now i'm not sure but i think i've read on here about the height sensors playing up if water gets in?? Plus it rained very heavily when travelling back along the M6.
So i'm thinking along the same line as Stapldm and Methley.
Wiggs,i'm parking on even ground in my normal place which has never caused a problem in the past, i'm off to work at 9, and the car will be parked on dead flat ground so i'll do what you said and not lower it and let i go to sleep, and see what happens 10 hrs later.
Big thanks to all who have posted on this, it's in the dealers tomorrow morning to hopefully be fixed, so i'll report the findings.
cheers all 
Lee
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 6th Jul 2009 8:36 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
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stapldm wrote:Anyone know where the harness connector that feeds the front valve block is? Sounds to me like the car is trying and failing to deflate the front bags...
When i went to look at Matt tdv6 's car ...he had a connector on the back which was not pugged in correctly ..everytime the suspension went to raise the rear we got the suspension fault light on .I cleared the fault , but everytime we raised the car the rear threw up a fault light (only when the rear went up )
Lee is not getting any fault lights ..so it could just be its out of calibration .. G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 6th Jul 2009 10:51 pm |
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lee157
Member Since: 01 Oct 2008
Location: in the middle
Posts: 557
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UPDATE:-
On the way to work,the suspension done its thing then it came up with "slow down or supension will lower"(as it is stuck in offroad height), the suspension tried to lower and then "suspension fault, do not exceed 30mph" and the yellow supension icon,which turned to red if you exceeded 30mph, also noticed the on the 4X4 screen that the front off side height sensor icon had dropped to the bottom of the wheel and was flashing red, so obviously a problem with the height sensor, have checked out the height sensor visually and it is still connected,but at least there is a fault recorded now for them to check tomorrow.
Would water in the conections cause this???
Lee
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| 6th Jul 2009 11:06 pm |
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methley
a.k.a. Big Hairy Ski Monster
Member Since: 07 Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, South Glos
Posts: 2433
  
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Looks like you've found your problem then! One of mine went soon after wading. Replaced under warranty.
Andy Andy
Fridge Slide for sale https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2064622.html#2064622
Last edited by methley on 6th Jul 2009 11:56 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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| 6th Jul 2009 11:55 pm |
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wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14368
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Fair chance G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
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| 6th Jul 2009 11:56 pm |
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lee157
Member Since: 01 Oct 2008
Location: in the middle
Posts: 557
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Update:-
Ok all, took it to Landrover today and was pleased that it was still doing what it was when i got there,they checked all the connections for water ingress and found them to be ok, plugged it in to the old computer and the offside front height sensor had thrown up an error, so now booked in for a new height sensor to be fitted.
It's good that it was the same sensor that went abit heywire on the 4X4 screen.
Lee
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| 7th Jul 2009 6:05 pm |
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lee157
Member Since: 01 Oct 2008
Location: in the middle
Posts: 557
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Update:-
Well after the height sensor changed on thursday, it's still doing the same thing, i have still got it to throw up an error on the new height sensor as before. 
Strangely when it goes into offroad height, the front takes quite a while to lift, as if insufficient air pressure, where the back shoots up!
If you lower with the controls it say clear obsticle and reset suspension etc. If you drive around the block in offroad height where it comes up slow down or car will lower, it does actually lower to normal height.
So why will it lower when the car wants it to but not when i want it too??
The Dealer have also said that there is no output from the new height sensor and are looking at a new ECU.
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| 13th Jul 2009 2:19 pm |
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BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
 
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Its much more likely to be the wiring i would think as to why they are getting no sensor output at all, could even be a duff new sensor as presumably there was readings on the old one, what do they get when they plug that back in?
I had a front right sensor fault keep popping up on a sport even after changing, turned out to be the opposite corner. Dunno why but when we changed that one the problem vanished.
If i were doing the job i would change em all, the parts are less than 60 quid all 4 corners with VAT, and they are not exactly hidden away all that much.
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| 13th Jul 2009 3:50 pm |
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Disco3newbie
Member Since: 26 Oct 2008
Location: Scottish Borders
Posts: 600
 
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Had similar problem with mine earlier in year due to faulty connector, dealer kept for 3 days until eventually replacing all sensors and connector (plus another bit of loom I think) under warranty. Issue was that they couldn't calibrate until all 4 sensors were replaced.
Good luck Club RLD spare wheel protection
Club RLD skid plate
Club its all black
Club D3 - it's gone
Club D4 - just arrived and still all black
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| 13th Jul 2009 10:07 pm |
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GaryEss
Member Since: 27 Apr 2009
Location: midlands
Posts: 42
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Hello
You ask , "So why will it lower when the car wants it to but not when i want it too?? "
Are you attempting to manually lower with the car stationary or with the car moving, as the lowering strategy does differ depending on this.
Can you manually lower the car when it is moving?
The RLCM will deduce that the vehicle is grounded/blocked when it tries to lower the relevant corner but does not see a height sensor value that corresponds to the suspension lowering, (or a signal reversal).
The dealer can view "live " values as seen by the ecu using IDS datalogger, or take manual control of the EAS whilst also looking at live values using the IDS ride level diagnostic interface.
You can check sensor signal voltage output, reference and ground values yourself with a multimeter and wiring diagram- these should be the same at the sensor connector and at the RLCM connector if there is no harness problem.
If you wish to troubleshoot this yourself there are only 3 wires from each sensor to the ECU, they are ref, ground and signal - if you remove the original wires and overlay a temporary harness this will prove whether the harness and/or any intermediate connectors are at fault (resistance, sc, etc) FYI it is not unknown for harnesses or connectors to corrode internally. Do not piggy back into your original harness if doing this test as if there is a short circuit you will not eliminate it as a possibility if you do not isolate the original wiring.
A very basic test would be to disconnect the link that connects the sensor to the suspension arm, move the sensor arm and use a multimeter to check that the sensor signal voltage changes smoothly with no "jumps' or zero values- BE VERY CAREFUL AS THE SUSPENSION MAY LOWER/RAISE AS THE SENSOR IS MOVED -BE CAREFUL IT CANNOT TRAP YOUR ARM IF YOU DO THIS.
good luck- gary
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| 14th Jul 2009 6:05 pm |
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lee157
Member Since: 01 Oct 2008
Location: in the middle
Posts: 557
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Thank GaryEss,
You got me thinking and on the way home i tried a few things with the manual height selection, whilst travelling at approx 15mph i selected access height and the car indeed lowered to access height and registered on the 4X4 screen and on the manual selector switch,this took approx 40 seconds to lower(which seems slow to me), i also selected offroad which registered in the 2 places taking approx 40 seconds to raise and then back to standard which took approx the same amount of time. This was all done whilst on the move.
If i'm not moving then i get the message " remove obsticle and reset suspension height" followed by the suspension going to extended height.
I said earlier that the front takes a long time to raise to offroad height, approx 40 seconds, the back is there in less than 10 seconds.
Can anyone point me in the direction of the front suspension valve block, so i can check it out.
To me it sounds like a restricted air/exhaust passage to the front block rather than an ECU problem.
Lee
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| 15th Jul 2009 8:05 am |
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GaryEss
Member Since: 27 Apr 2009
Location: midlands
Posts: 42
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The front valve block has 3 valves, one for each corner and a cross link valve. (as does the rear valve block)
However as your vehicle operates correctly on certain modes (auto lower being one, manual adjust when moving being another) then the ECU must be able to control the valves correctly at least some of the time. It will operate the valves based on ECU output and "watch" the values from the height sensors to see if the system is doing what is ordered, which it seems to do correctly when you are moving. Does your car consistently fault if you lower when stationary?
FYI The valve block itself is located behind your rh front wheelarch liner (below the hedlamp on a bracket from the chassis) it is made from black plastic and has 3 air lines plus an electrical connector.
gary
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| 15th Jul 2009 9:56 am |
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GaryEss
Member Since: 27 Apr 2009
Location: midlands
Posts: 42
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Just read some more of your post- the same exhaust valves, pilot and main are used to vent the system for both front and rear valve blocks, they are located on the compressor.
the system layout is as follows:
front valve block, rear valve block- one at each end, both piped to the reservoir valve block. Reservoir valve block is connected to the air tank (resevoir) and the compressor, thus exhaust valves and then silencer.
fyi re: your theory a blocked inlet/exhaust silencer can result in slow lowering and raising times- you can find this by following the pipes from your compressor up toward the top of your lh rear air spring- the silencer is a round plastic "can" connected to these. However problems here should in theory affect both front and rear lowering
This should be quite simple to diagnose using IDS EAS diagnostic interface as this tool enables the dealer to manulaly control and view all aspects of the suspension system.
Good luck
Gary
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| 15th Jul 2009 10:13 am |
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lee157
Member Since: 01 Oct 2008
Location: in the middle
Posts: 557
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Thanks for the reply Gary, i had a visual check of the valve blocks and electrical connectors and couldn't see anything out the ordinary.
It went into the dealers today for the new ECU, well can things get any worse??? Apparently the new ECU isn't communicating to there IDS system whatso ever, so they are now looking into the wiring etc.
I can't believe this car, it went in for a water leak and came out with a sat nav and stereo fault, it went in for the rear air con pipes and came back with a suspension fault, it went in for a height sensor and came out with a ECU fault, then went in for a new ECU and now this.
I've only had the car 10 months and have been very disappointed on more than one occation.
When it works it's great, when it doesn't it's a pain in the  !
Lee
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| 16th Jul 2009 6:20 pm |
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GaryEss
Member Since: 27 Apr 2009
Location: midlands
Posts: 42
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Lee 157
Given the random nature of your faults, you could possibly have harness corrosion or loose/ corroded ground points on your wiring somewhere. was your water leak in to the footwell near to the suspension ECU? There are also harness ground (earth) eyelets bolted into the lower a post area, you could remove the trims and check here if you wish.
i cannot possibly comment on the perfomance of your dealer, but comms failure to the ecu should have been apparent the last time it was being worked on if IDS was connected.
If they plug the old ecu back in does this one communicate with their diagnostic system? This test will INSTANTLY confirm if the new ecu has a fault or if the lack of comms is due to wiring issues.
Good luck with getting this resolved- hopefully everthing will be fixed to your satisfaction soon.
gary
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| 16th Jul 2009 7:17 pm |
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