Lights on are;
Amber brake
Amber Traction control
Amber Suspension
Flashing green low range
Messages;
Transmission fault
Traction reduced
Apply handbrake
HDC fault system not available
Suspension lowered
Special programs off
Audible;
Constant beeping when handbrake is not engaged and vehicle is in park
The handbrake will set by itself each time when returning the shifter to park
The handbrake will not release when throttle is applied
I’ve tried to fix this by doing;
Replaced the brake switch
Replaced the battery
Hard reset
Clearing codes with the IID tool
Pulled the transfer case module out, opened the aluminum box and found some corrosion. Cleaned the corrosion with a fiberglass brush, reassembled using dielectric grease on connectors.
From what I’ve read on the forum the transfer case module seems like it could be the problem. Should I replace it and see what happens? I hate throwing parts at things but I’m not sure what else to try.
7th Sep 2018 3:04 am
IndusD4
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 308
I had something similar when I pulled out the wire to the transfer case on a trip in the bush. A photo of that wire is in this thread.
Ron2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
IIDTool BT
7th Sep 2018 6:29 am
IndusD4
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 308
The thread itself might be useful too of course.
Ron2016 D4 TDV6 Corris Grey
IIDTool BT
7th Sep 2018 6:32 am
Net_fisher2
Member Since: 23 May 2017
Location: Isle of Wight
Posts: 99
That solder joint could be dry....i.e. not actually contacting the pad anymore..
All of that flux around the joint???
Have you de-soldered that chip
If not, get a soldering Iron on those joints and reflow those joints, may help!
Be careful, not too hot!
Just a thought!
7th Sep 2018 7:19 am
Rene_Sp
Member Since: 20 Sep 2017
Location: @Home
Posts: 55
i hope the picture is before the circuitboard was cleaned with the fiber pen.
I think the soldering of the blue resistor (could be a fuse as well) on the right of the BUK7608 is also critical
if you have a soldering iron that is not to big ,reflow that as well
7th Sep 2018 7:27 am
Team Jeff
Member Since: 20 Feb 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 26
I pulled the transfer case module back out today and separated the circuit board from the aluminium backing plate by drilling out the rivits. I found a little more corrosion on backside, then cleaned with a fiberglass brush and reflowed the solder in both sides where the corrosion was found. Reassembled using some small machine screws.
One note about the aluminium tabs on the box - it seems they’re only good for one “cycle” meaning the second time I opened the box the tabs all broke off. On reassembly I secured the sides of the box using aluminum tape. I was careful to leave some of the mating surface free of tape to reduce the chance of condensation.
Reassembled, no change.
Yes, that photo was before the fiberglass brush!
What do you guys think? What else could I test?
I think this is probably irrelevant, but I did rebuild the compressor and repair a leaky airline recently. It’s been a few weeks and around 500mi so I think it’s unlikely there’s a connection.
7th Sep 2018 9:48 pm
Team Jeff
Member Since: 20 Feb 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 26
Ron, I had forgotten about this until you mentioned it - when I bought the vehicle about nine years ago, I noticed the electrical connector to the transfer case motor was cracked. I used some sealant to close it up as a preventiatve measure. I’ll have to check that out and see if there’s some corrosion.
7th Sep 2018 9:55 pm
Team Jeff
Member Since: 20 Feb 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 26
Just took a look at that electrical connector, couldn’t see any corrosion at all.
I did notice when I switch the key to ON I heard a light knocking sound. It only lasts for about 5 seconds but I was able to get under the vehicle fast enough to confirm it’s coming from what looks like the motor that changes the HI/LOW range in the transfer case. I don’t think I recall hearing that noise normally...can anyone confirm that?
7th Sep 2018 10:27 pm
Team Jeff
Member Since: 20 Feb 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 26
I removed the electric motor from the transfer case & sure enough the gear is stripped. A new carbon fiber reinforced gear is $17 on amazon and will be here in two days.
I’m hopeful this will remedy the issue!
8th Sep 2018 1:52 am
Team Jeff
Member Since: 20 Feb 2009
Location: Arizona
Posts: 26
I replaced the transfer case motor gear, recalibrated the transfer case using the IID tool & that fixed the fault codes! Thank you guys for the help!
12th Sep 2018 10:33 pm
IndusD4
Member Since: 01 Dec 2011
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 308
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