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Tail gate failure
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stevep
 


Member Since: 16 Apr 2013
Location: London
Posts: 91

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3

.. Follow up...

Latch failed again on a weekend away at the seaside just as we got back to the car with the kids bikes etc. So I had to go through the whole malarkey again. Turned out the Allen key was still attached to the cable, but it had jumped out of the plastic part, even with two cable ties round it (which were still there, tight around the plastic??!) Maybe I chose too thin an Allen key. Anyway, I ordered and fitted a new latch/cable assembly and it's all working well now, so fingers crossed that'll be it forever.

Just wanted to add a warning to people doing the Allen key- make sure it can't work its way out- if it can, it will!
  
Post #14699597th May 2015 4:15 pm
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harsab
 


Member Since: 16 Jan 2016
Location: Sola
Posts: 7

Norway 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Siberian SilverDiscovery 3
Tailgate motor repair

If your motor is slow or it slows down after a few activations the motor by itself can be disassembled and cleaned. This will speed up the motor and make it strong enough to pull the release wire.

There are a lot of instructions on how to disassembly and replace the talgate motor, so this guide starts after tailgate cower and motor has been removed.

The first part of this guide is for repairing the motor, the second part is for making an “emergency “ wire to manually release the tailgate.














After I assembled the motor I mounted a kind of emergency wire to be operated from inside the lower tailgate.
It’s made of a standard bicycle brake wire and secured by a socket like this one.















Click image to enlarge
[/b]
 

Last edited by harsab on 8th May 2016 8:17 am. Edited 2 times in total 
Post #16516357th May 2016 8:48 pm
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tayaste
 


Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633

United Kingdom 2008 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

Nice Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
   
Post #16516397th May 2016 8:52 pm
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Narpy
 


Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830

2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Wow, amazing first post harsab, welcome aboard. Thumbs Up
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Post #16516447th May 2016 9:05 pm
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Biffysun
 


Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1786

Scotland 2016 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 SE Tech Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Very Happy Nice work, if the motor fails its a great escape route, the more common failure is the 'L' shaped hook end of the cable which breaks, this won't help if that happens unless the emergency release is attached further up the cable? Confused
  
Post #16516487th May 2016 9:28 pm
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Disco_Mikey
 


Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20713

Scotland 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Correct Thumbs Up

The emergency release needs attached to the cable, not the actuator
 My D3 Build Thread

TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread 
 
Post #16516507th May 2016 9:31 pm
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mandd
 


Member Since: 03 Mar 2014
Location: Ontario
Posts: 13

Canada 2006 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Lux Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3
Upper tailgate actuator

For those in a pinch you can use the door lock actuator from a ford explorer it is 99% identical to the LR original and works perfect.

Dorman makes an replacement actuator that is identical to this (Dorman 746-158)

The only difference is the connector which can be made up, the power and ground are on the same side has OE.

You should remove the rubber spring and fit the OE metal spring. On both sides there will be mounts for the screws that need to be filed down level.

It mounts in the same position has OE. This actuator cost me $48.00 CDN



Mark.
  
Post #16786968th Jul 2016 3:51 pm
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Ladderman
 


Member Since: 24 Sep 2016
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 1

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Java BlackDiscovery 3
My Fix

My fix using 15 amp electrical connector and tie wraps with emergency release.
Click image to enlarge
  
Post #171023724th Sep 2016 11:35 am
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stevep
 


Member Since: 16 Apr 2013
Location: London
Posts: 91

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Zambezi SilverDiscovery 3
If you're doing that, then do this...

So in the past few months, after first the allen key repair, then when that failed after a few weeks, a latch/cable replacement, recently my upper tailgate started opening less and less reliably until last week it stopped working completely... with a hired cement mixer and whacker plate machine in the boot. (For anyone who finds themselves in exactly the same position in future, the whacker fits out thru the passenger door, but the mixer doesn't. But at least my mixer was on a special offer weekly hire rate so I could afford to chauffeur it about for a few days.)

So it was back to the now all too familiar skinned knuckles and that tantalising feeling of stroking a bowden cable with the finger tip of a bent-backwards hand, but not being quite able to hook the finger around it because the hand is being cut into by the edge of the plastic cover that you're trying to simultaneously pry open.

After many curious stares from passers-by who were wondering what kind of strange domestic tragedy had unfolded that led me to shout obscenities at a cement mixer whilst inside a car boot, I finally popped open the latch. My actuator seemed to work, albeit too weakly to operate the latch. I had read on this forum that somebody had found a chafed wire beside a front seat which in turn led to a low power supply to the actuator, and I was worried this would be my problem since I've recently done the sunroof drain behind the fuse box, and also the green wire splice for the central locking due to the 'underwater loom' symptom that often follows the drain problem. But someone else said they had replaced the actuator and it fixed the problem. So I tried the new actuator first.

I'm happy to report that the difference was chalk and cheese, the new actuator pulled like a train. I guess you could dissassemble and clean the motor inside as someone mentioned above, but to be honest at £40 for the land rover part I'd rather take the hit than risk another set of skinned knuckles.

So the moral of the story (and my reason for posting)?... if you find yourself replacing the latch, do your hands a favour and do the actuator at the same time Thumbs Up
  
Post #17163586th Oct 2016 6:52 pm
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Darlip
 


Member Since: 05 Apr 2014
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 24

Sweden 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Manual Java BlackDiscovery 3

Has anyone been able to open the trunk after it failed, while having a drawersystem installed in the back?
It's the top part that wont open, lower part I hope it still works.

Seems that I have a decent mess to deal with now...

2 button fix doesn't work, even got that programmed to my keyfob.
  
Post #181650518th May 2017 7:09 pm
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BLFarrar
 


Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Le Halifax, West Yorkshire...with strong links to Ireland
Posts: 6222

France 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Lugano TealDiscovery 3
swearkng at the car...

stevep wrote:
So in the past few months, after first the allen key repair, then when that failed after a few weeks, a latch/cable replacement, recently my upper tailgate started opening less and less reliably until last week it stopped working completely... with a hired cement mixer and whacker plate machine in the boot. (For anyone who finds themselves in exactly the same position in future, the whacker fits out thru the passenger door, but the mixer doesn't. But at least my mixer was on a special offer weekly hire rate so I could afford to chauffeur it about for a few days.)

So it was back to the now all too familiar skinned knuckles and that tantalising feeling of stroking a bowden cable with the finger tip of a bent-backwards hand, but not being quite able to hook the finger around it because the hand is being cut into by the edge of the plastic cover that you're trying to simultaneously pry open.

After many curious stares from passers-by who were wondering what kind of strange domestic tragedy had unfolded that led me to shout obscenities at a cement mixer whilst inside a car boot, I finally popped open the latch. My actuator seemed to work, albeit too weakly to operate the latch. I had read on this forum that somebody had found a chafed wire beside a front seat which in turn led to a low power supply to the actuator, and I was worried this would be my problem since I've recently done the sunroof drain behind the fuse box, and also the green wire splice for the central locking due to the 'underwater loom' symptom that often follows the drain problem. But someone else said they had replaced the actuator and it fixed the problem. So I tried the new actuator first.

I'm happy to report that the difference was chalk and cheese, the new actuator pulled like a train. I guess you could dissassemble and clean the motor inside as someone mentioned above, but to be honest at £40 for the land rover part I'd rather take the hit than risk another set of skinned knuckles.

So the moral of the story (and my reason for posting)?... if you find yourself replacing the latch, do your hands a favour and do the actuator at the same time Thumbs Up


Brilliant post !
I've been there myself swearing at the vehicle !!
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Post #181653018th May 2017 7:43 pm
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Gazellio
 


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Chilterns
Posts: 4130

United Kingdom 2009 Discovery 4 TDV6 SE Auto Indus SilverDiscovery 4

My wife's 2005 D3 has gone. For ages the upper tailgate would not latch first time and needed a good push/slam.

Now it will not open at all. Pressing key fob or dash button or two buttons makes an actuator sound but no movement in the upper tailgate at all.

Best way forward based on any clues above other than indy/dealer?
  
Post #183748216th Jul 2017 5:31 pm
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lr101fc
 


Member Since: 03 Jan 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 49

Wales 2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Tangiers OrangeDiscovery 3
Tailgate not opening

Tailgate would not open, luckily the day before the dog had to go to the vet, so we used the other car
As there is a dog guard fitted, but than can be removed through rear passenger door. It would have been difficult with a 30kg Griffon Kortal desperate to get out at the same time.

Can only hear a click, when pressing the exterior or two interior buttons - I preferred the D1 setup with a physical handle inside, so sounds like actuator is not working. Add it to list - the 101 is taking my time at the moment. Winch has stopped working, just a click somewhere behind the winch. Electrical gremlins - just take time and patience to repair

I'll probably change the cable and actuator and maybe exterior switch all at the same time as the car is now 12 years old so, change one part and the other will probably fail soon after Rolling Eyes
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Post #18452418th Aug 2017 2:08 pm
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Dutchrockboy
 


Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85

Germany 2014 LR4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti GreyLR4

D3 2008: Tailgate won´t open. Sounds like the Thread is broken. The actuator gives some sounds.

I read this fred. Gives me the confidence i can manage this.

Would like to know the part number of the Actuator and the thread.
  
Post #185932619th Sep 2017 4:13 pm
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Dutchrockboy
 


Member Since: 16 Apr 2014
Location: Germany
Posts: 85

Germany 2014 LR4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Bonatti GreyLR4

I managed to open the Tailgate.
The Latch is broken and the Actuator does not Funktion very well.
So i checked for a new one....

Shocked

100€?

Censored
  
Post #186320129th Sep 2017 7:33 pm
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