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onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 105
  
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Hi all
My first post for a long time. Got myself another Disco 3, it's done close to 180k on a 57 plate, the HSE version. Sold the previous HSE as I had one too many cars (back to 2 again now!). 
Anyway, this one has a few problems that I am working on, one of them being that the dreaded TCCM has been fried (I opened it yesterday and found one of the chips had actually melted!  ). I have a replacement one on it's way from a breakers but I understand that it will need flashing/coding in order for it to work on my car (it is also from a 2008 disco 3).
Looking at GAPs user guide/manual, there is mention of the ECU flashing process, but also that it is a 'pro' capability. Now I have the "GAP IID Tool Land Rover Diagnostic Bluetooth Code Reader G3 IIDTool" and honestly, I'm not sure if there is a IID G3 and a IID G3 Pro? I am assuming that the G3 is the pro? but would be grateful if anyone who knows could confirm either way.
Also if anyone on here as performed this procedure (replaced their TCCM with a used one from a donor vehicle, then coded/flashed it with the GAP IID tool), and could offer any advice or if anyone has done a step-by-step how to? (I checked on the forum and couldn't find one).
Thanks all for reading.[/b] 
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 15th May 2023 1:09 pm |
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Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
  
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If your IID is matched to the VIN of the Landy you plan to work on, it is possible to flash the TCCM.
I did it myself with a new Bosch unit (not LR branded) installed it, used the IID..
Was straightforward procedure, did not write it down, as it was easy…
More important… these TCCM do get fried, due to water ingress /elctrical shortage
The bonnet seal shortens in time…. And so will get loose in the corners. One of these corners is straight above the TCCM/ECU and the plastic box is NOT watertight the alu box from the TCCM neither….
Re route the seal, and yes it will leave a gap in the font… but since in the front are no important electrical parts, less worries there.. Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc. 
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| 15th May 2023 4:47 pm |
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onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 105
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Thanks for the response Motolab - most useful to know.
One thing I was thinking about doing was to run a bead of silicone over the alu case, to prevent any future water ingress.. however not sure if this would then impede the box from 'breathing' - wouldn't want it to then get moist/damp in there as a result.
Anyone else tried that?
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| 15th May 2023 8:38 pm |
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Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
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If you don’t fix the bonnet seal in that corner it will not help very much, since the collected water, does not drain, it is a bucket there..
BUT it always good to “seal” the TCCM against moist from other sources..
Is doesn’t breathe and the alloy will keep it cool enough
Never use silicon though.. that is not designed for automotive use… use a proper sealant, like sika 291 or likewise
Sika 291 can be bought at watersport , yachting , sailing shops…
Fuel/gasoline will clean your fingers, faults etc… until it is “hardened” (stays flexible though)
(Once the container is opened, you can store it in the freezer, will last for years) Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
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| 15th May 2023 9:03 pm |
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