Member Since: 14 Aug 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 35
* Time Bomb Alert * EGR to Left Hand Manifold pipe LR020547
Click image to enlarge
I don't post very often but this I had to share, as it is likely to affect all vehicles with the 3.0 tdv6/sdv6 engine at some point in later life, or earlier depending on driving history.
Friday 13th is apt, sorry no good news here, all bad.
So, my MY2010 TDV6 lost 1st stage boost around 3 months ago. I knew the turbos were probably OK as both were checked when I had a new JLR engine recently (yes -Broken Crank). Anyhow, with the radio off l noticed the sound of rushing air within the cabin, passenger side, when pulling away or mild acceleration. it sounds like it was coming through air vents, but it was not.
I assumed a leaking Boost pipe of which there are many components between turbo and Manifold.
I knew some were fiddly to get at, so I booked into my indie.
Diagnosis was a surprise - the issue was a leaking pipe from exhaust to EGR valve. Hence robbing the 1st stage turbo of initial pressure, hence the loss of power. Boost pipes were fine.
Good news was that the part was only £56 retail (part no LR020547)
BAD NEWS: This part (at time of writing) is on back order and Genuine ONLY - even Main Dealers cannot get any or any ETA !
The car is drivable, but concerned about fumes entering the cabin, which they must be as I can smell exhaust. I placed a CO meter inside, fortunately zero ppm reading, but still not happy driving, hence sourced a second hand EGR, complete with LR020547 Pipe attached.
Now, this is the concerning bit for every other owner. I thought I'd check the second hand pipe was sound before tackling the fitting. I removed the fireproof fabric braiding/heatshield which is crimped at one end(check LR020547 on google for pics), and cleaned off all the burnt-on carbon from the manifold end of the pipe.
Then I saw the issue.
The pipe, which i think must be stainless steel, is very thin and must take a huge amount of heat abuse from the hot gasses being so close to the manifold, compounded by the carbon which must focus/store the heat over time. This seems to have eroded and buckled the pipe to such an extent that it is pin-holed and therefore leaking.
I have not removed mine from the car yet, but this is what must have happened and got so bad that there is a large hole/crack affecting boost and emitting exhaust into the engine bay. I will know more when I do the job (maybe tomorrow).
I conclude that every vehicle with this part (Landrover/Jaguar/Range Rover) will be at risk. Mine went at 12 years old/ 195K miles. Yes that is High but nevertheless I think it is a design issue placing something so delicate/thin close to the manifold. Draw your own conclusions from the pics.
Maybe the part supply shortage is the result of many starting to fail ?
Yours may already be like this, I doubt a hole this tiny would affect boost yet but I'm sure all will get worse over time.
MAY BE WORTH CHECKING - if yours is till under warranty the JLR must surely get it done as exhaust is meant to exit at the rear of the car or recirculated, not inhaled by the passengers !
Maybe with group action this should be a SAFETY RECALL ?
Just though I'd add - No engine management lights showed this up, or GAP IID errors !
PPS. If the studs break while removing it, its a body-off job. Hence £56 part £1200 fitting.
See images.
Click image to enlarge
13th May 2022 8:26 pm
Lazydave
Member Since: 07 Jul 2019
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 87
Just had this on RH side and bolt did snap.2010 HSE
Full service genuine parts.
Front and rear pads.
Turbo oil drain pipe mod.
LED interior lights upgrade.
Both rear door actuators.
Tailgate handle/ switch.
Facelift grille and rear lights.
Fitted cross bars.
New rear discs and pads.
New RH inlet manifold.
New air con condensor.
New battery.
New EGR pipe.
New front discs and pads.
New propshaft.
13th May 2022 9:09 pm
Lazydave
Member Since: 07 Jul 2019
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 87
Try part number FF012253.2010 HSE
Full service genuine parts.
Front and rear pads.
Turbo oil drain pipe mod.
LED interior lights upgrade.
Both rear door actuators.
Tailgate handle/ switch.
Facelift grille and rear lights.
Fitted cross bars.
New rear discs and pads.
New RH inlet manifold.
New air con condensor.
New battery.
New EGR pipe.
New front discs and pads.
New propshaft.
13th May 2022 9:16 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20838
Never personally seen the LH pipe corrode through, it's usually the RH
Member Since: 14 Aug 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 35
Lazydave wrote:
Try part number FF012253.
Cheers, seems out of stock too.
I may have to resort to slotting in a blanking plate until I can get a pipe. I know DPF regen will be for a while but better than poisoning the occupants.
Fingers crossed on the studs tomorrow.
reckon warm the engine up first, expand the threads a bit.
13th May 2022 9:46 pm
Pigscovery
Member Since: 14 Aug 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 35
Lazydave wrote:
Just had this on RH side and bolt did snap.
Thanks for the confidence booster
13th May 2022 9:48 pm
Guineafowl21
Member Since: 03 May 2021
Location: Inverness
Posts: 12
I have a very similar problem. How did you gain access to this pipe - wheelarch, or from the top?
Cheers
Andy
21st May 2022 4:53 pm
Andy304
Member Since: 23 Apr 2024
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 1
Hi,
I've been searching for this topic on the Range Rover forums but this is the only place I can see that mentions it.
I have the same problem with the driver side pipe and wondered if this could be done without taking the body off even if a bolt snapped.
Cheers Andy.
2011 RRS SDV6
23rd Apr 2024 7:46 am
qcnr
Member Since: 23 Nov 2017
Location: Norway
Posts: 117
I am certain that, as an interim measure, any competent welder could sort that.
23rd Apr 2024 12:16 pm
itsaguything
Member Since: 20 Dec 2023
Location: Manotick, On
Posts: 252
No, this seems "reaching" to me. Even if you are the original owner... 195k miles. 24 years old. I'm not seeing it.2015 LR4 HSE Lux Aintree Green
2013 LR2 HSE Radiance Red
2007 XKR Jaguar Racing Green
2005 XJR Jaguar Racing Green
2002 S-Type R British Racing Green
23rd Apr 2024 3:46 pm
dgarside
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Holmfirth
Posts: 734
Can this pipe be replaced through the wheel arch or is it only possible with body lift? I have the parts but just had a good look and can’t see how it can be done via wheel arch. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.RLD CB Bracket
RLD Spare Wheel Protector
RLD Sump Protector
ProSpeed Compressor Cover
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29th Aug 2024 4:43 pm
Andyyav
Member Since: 22 May 2019
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 304
I done the drivers side through the wheel arch, not easy but doable with time and patience, there’s some heat shields to remove once the wheels off and then you’ll see it
https://www.disco4.com/forum/topic190538-30.html1972 Series 3 full of character
1985 90 pick up went anywhere
1992 90 Exported
2007 L322 that was an experience
2010 D4 more versatile than a Swiss army knife, now gone
29th Aug 2024 7:51 pm
dgarside
Member Since: 17 Jan 2010
Location: Holmfirth
Posts: 734
Is it always the drivers side which people are seeing the problem with or also the passenger side? My leak seems to sound like it’s coming from passenger side and seems to have black spot at the manifold end of the pipe.RLD CB Bracket
RLD Spare Wheel Protector
RLD Sump Protector
ProSpeed Compressor Cover
TPMS Retrofit
Range Rover Digital Dash Upgrade
Tesla Style Android Screen Upgrade
29th Aug 2024 10:04 pm
NC500
Member Since: 18 Sep 2017
Location: On the NC500
Posts: 541
This is mine - recent failure on right hand side (drivers). Replaced with OEM and took six hours labour, body on
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for a while but better than poisoning the occupants.
