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Timing belt change - DIY?
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M3DPO
 


Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8223

England 2014 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Lux Auto Corris GreyDiscovery 4

Box of rags to seal around the engine to help prevent tools and removed components falling into oblivion.
Length of string to tie round spanner’s when doing the rear belt.
Telescopic magnet to retrieve any of the above that do sneak past.
Rechargeable head lamp (indispensable)
Box of Elastoplast for obvious reasons. Whistle
And most of all Patients, don’t try and rush it, if I can do it anybody can.

Click image to enlarge

D4.
 It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't. 
 
Post #23788003rd Oct 2024 3:22 pm
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PROFSR G
 


Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5040

Ukraine 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

The timing belt kit contains the idlers, tensioner, etc so no need to order these separately. The three pulley bolts can be reused, but as you're replacing the pulleys you might as well renew for the small cost involved. Ditto for the water pump pulley bolts.

The pulleys have been hard to source for a while but I see they're available again.
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/camshaft-pull...39565.html
https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/camshaft-pull...39566.html

You will also need a decent torque bar and more importantly a decent breaker bar for the crank along with the steel tube extn Pete k referred to earlier. This will be required to retorque the new crank bolt which needs to be incredibly tight. For the rear belt it is not easy to get even the smallest torque wrench that will fit behind the engine to tighten the tensioner. However, it is only 25Nm and this is doable by hand without the torque wrench so long as you are used to doing up small bolts.

When you remove the crank pulley be careful not to loose the anti slip gasket inside the pulley! This prevents pulley slip as there is no keyway to hold it, which is why so much torque is required to tighten the b@gger. Your most awkward moment will likely be removing the last alternator mounting bolt which is hidden high up under the mounting. The most critical moment will be fitting the crank oil seal and being absolutely certain that the sealing lip has not been turned back on itself. I use a endoscope placed behind the seal once it has left the installer and pushed on to the start of the crank. The seal can be rotated on the crank and the endoscope will confirm the lip is correctly installed all the way around. You can then proceed to push it home with the tool and if you wish apply Loctite to the ribs just before you push it into the pump case.

Do not be tempted to lubricate the seal before installation or you will destroy it in seconds once the engine starts. Make sure the crank is spotless before you begin and your hands too!

Crankshaft bolt S1 100Nm, S2 a further 90° (new bolt only)
T/belt tensioner 24Nm, T/belt idlers 45Nm, Crank damper bolts 14Nm, Coolant elbow bolts 10Nm, Alternator retaining bolts 23Nm, Alternator mounting bolts 23Nm, Oil pump bolts 10Nm. Water pump bolts 10Nm, Water pump pulley bolts 23Nm, T/belt cover bolts 10Nm and just about any other M6 bolt with a 10mm head will be 10Nm, and M8 bolts with a 13mm head will be generally between 23 and 25 Nm.
 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 
 
Post #23788043rd Oct 2024 3:36 pm
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disco chris
 


Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 281

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

Thank you all - you guys and the forum are a great help.

I'll begin ordering the bits and pieces I need and update with some photos when I begin the work in the next month or two.

For what it's worth, I did a quick tally up and I reckon the parts and tools I need will set me back about £700 - 800 (that includes oil pump, water pump, and both camshaft pulleys). That includes some tools that I'll obviously be able to use again. When I called my JLR independent, they quoted £895 for the timing belt service, plus an extra £600 if I wanted the oil and water pumps doing too... so close enough £1500 all in. Worth having a crack myself I think... the car is barely worth £1500 Laughing

Thanks again chaps. Really appreciate the time taken to respond.
  
Post #23788343rd Oct 2024 9:18 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10674

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

Well I am glad you mentioned the car is only worth 1500.

Even after you do all that work there are still plenty of ways the car can be a writeoff.
e.g.
Engine failure
gearbox failure
rust

So please consider if you really need the following parts. (maybe start work and see how things go)
Yes ok, if you do long road trips then fine. But if you only use for short trips....

Aux belt and tensioner PQG500250
Thermostat housing water outlet LR073372 (+ additional O ring?)
Throttle body rear seal x 2 LR1316152
Throttle body front seal x 1 LR008353
EGR pipe clip 1311338
Water pump LR009324G

Consider getting the oil pump from Citroen or Advanced motorfactors. A lot cheaper than landrover
Not sure Citroen sell them anymore? 1001G2


Then again, I notice your cars done 255k Big Cry
  
Post #23788514th Oct 2024 8:58 am
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disco chris
 


Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 281

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

Cheers Pete K. A lot of the car's value is sentimental (for my sins), it's been in the family from new and I have a strange and uneconomic interest in keeping it going as long as possible. Call it a hobby?

I'm in a fortunate enough position funds-wise and I can handle a gearbox / diff / transfer case and probably most rust. Ok, engine I would have to think about being worth it, although I would still be tempted if I could find someone to do the work.

I don't really have any interest in the prestige or whatever of a newer vehicle. Me and my wife love the car to bits and while many of our friends are spending £500-700 per month on flashy PCP cars I am content spending a bit of my hard earned on some quality parts to keep the old girl running nicely.

We live in London but do about 10k per year with regular long trips up to Yorkshire and also to the Cotswolds to see family and for work also. The car doesn't spend too much time creeping around London unless we're at the start or end of a long road trip.

My only plausible alternative to running the D3 is to spend about £10-15k on a newer and lower mileage D4 but I just don't see the attraction unless the D3 really decides it's time to retire (engine). But then I'm £10-15k down off the bat, and still have all the uncertainty of engine, gearbox, etc etc.

Bit of a ramble but hopefully explains my thinking a bit - she's not stretching me financially (yet) and I'm not looking to cut corners to save a few bob Thumbs Up
  
Post #23788524th Oct 2024 9:22 am
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10674

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

fair enough.....

Pamper it. Wink
  
Post #23788544th Oct 2024 9:56 am
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disco chris
 


Member Since: 25 Apr 2022
Location: London
Posts: 281

United Kingdom 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Buckingham BlueDiscovery 3

Yeah


Just wait for the engine to go kaboom next week after I've said all that Rolling with laughter
  
Post #23788564th Oct 2024 10:16 am
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