Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 595
Tips and guidance with C1130 66 please
Hi,
Had the amber Suspension fault ping up a couple of times. Turn car off and on again and it clears, but then comes back on either later that day or the following.
Research on here suggests replacing the seals and dessicant? (beady things) in the compressor and the seals in the valve blocks too. Also the exhaust valve. A gogle search even showed me there was a filter in the boot for the air intake. Every day is a school day.
Can't do anything today as at work in a couple of hours. I had a look and tried to see what compressor i've got, but not sure i'll be able to without taking the covers off etc and don't have time. Is there an easy way of telling? Somewhere specific to find it, so I can focus where I gently prize the cover open?
Even if it's not the compressor or valve blocks, i'll still service them as the D4 is 12 years old (MY12) and over 200k, so won't be wasted money.
Can anyone recommend a kit for AMK and Hitachi compressors and also for the valve blocks please?
There's a few on fleabay but i'm always a little wary of them being cheap knock offs.
Any tips, links to parts, links to how to's and videos would be appreciated.
Thanks.
17th Oct 2024 9:32 am
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6770
X8R in UK has all the parts and kits for the Hitachi. Parts are good and the instructions are pretty nice.
I think there are much less available for the AMK. At least exhaust valve solenoid, seals and desiccant exist. No experience with them but 4x4 air seals sold these. Probably others, too.
Regarding the valve blocks…….. I would personally not get anything else than reboxed genuine (so genuine but without the oval logo like Britpart OEM) but the prices are eye watering even for those.
17th Oct 2024 10:54 am
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 595
Cheers. I'll have to get the cover off and see which compressor I've got.
Can an AMK be replaced with Hitachi? As in do the mounting holes line up or is it not that simple?
I'll try and have a look at the weekend in between my list of other tasks SWMBO has set.
Thanks
17th Oct 2024 12:19 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6770
The AMK will work with Hitachi firmware but not vice versa. Ideally you’d want AMK firmware if you have the AMK. The firmware can be changed (programmed) with an IIDtool, etc.
The AMK is supposed to come with a new cover that fits it, mounting kit and the electrical harness and air lines… again ideally.
I have honestly no idea which is better in real life. When either fails the vehicle has been around for quite some time, or the previous owner has neglected service, etc. someone who does these daily could perhaps chime in.
17th Oct 2024 2:56 pm
itsaguything
Member Since: 20 Dec 2023
Location: Manotick, On
Posts: 262
I need to ask, why throw money at anything until you are absolutely certain what is the root cause of the issue?
Therefore, specifically which error codes are being thrown? From that we prescribe a series of tests to confirm the root cause. From that we prescribe the appropriate fix.
This just may save you a significant amount of money and time… fixing things that require no fixing.
According to the workshop manual…
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18th Oct 2024 12:48 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 595
The fault ode from my IID tool is C1130-66 suggesting a leak or valve stuck open. From research on here before posting, people have described the same issue as I'm having being down to the compressor needing an overhaul.
I'm not overly savvi with the Gap IID tool so don't really know how to explore the fault code further. I'll happily take some instruction to try and narrow down the fault?
Is there a way to ID which corner the leak (if it is a leak) is coming from?
The Disco is a 2012 plate on over 200k and is the original compressor. I will check for leaks once i've acquiried a spray bottle. I don't necessarily see giving the compressor an overhaul as a waste of money as prevention is usually cheaper than cure. A kit is about £50-60 from what i've found.
My plan was, spray bottle and squirt soapy water on compressor outlets, valve blocks and air bags. See if anything bubbles. If it does, replace. If not, service compressor as already suggested, the dessicant turns to powder and blocks stuff up which can cause the fault code i have.
If you don't mind and have time, how would you go about finding the exact issue?
20th Oct 2024 9:04 am
MikeO
Member Since: 15 Jan 2014
Location: The Cotswolds
Posts: 1391
Don't forget to check the reservoir as well.
You can also disconnect the output of the compressor to check if it's generating sufficient pressure.2016 Skoda Octavia VRS Estate
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20th Oct 2024 9:11 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hi
Wished to also share the compressor outputs so at least then ur be able to whilst using the live data function on the gap iid
Have u also set ur suspension into normal ride height and measures eaxh wheel from the bottom f the wheel arch liner to the centre of each wheel
Can put some masking tape onto the centre of the wheels and draw a line so ur then know ur measurement will be the same each time
Then after measurements in mm, Plse remove fuse F26 from the engine bays fuse box and leave overnight
Then u may see a corner has dropped or one side so at least that gives u another direction to go on , plse be aware after replacing the fuse the body can drop quite quickly
Along with of course using live data as can see as the valve blocks open and close , data will show it in % of how far open or closed they are
Found that if there’s white dust inside the dryer cap or airlines etc is well worth it by blasting out each line one by one with both ends disconnected as don’t want it going into the valve blocks as can cause havoc
Hope along with the other invaluable data that this also helps u in a small way
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20th Oct 2024 10:01 am
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 595
Cheers Gstuart, will give those suggestions a go and see where i get to.
May I ask, what the values on the chart relate to?
I'm assuming they should correlate with the live date on my Gap IID tool?
I'll measure and remove the fuse tomorrow evening.
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
20th Oct 2024 9:27 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Ur so welcome
The chart gives an output data for the compressor , in psi or kpa
Indeed gives what the compressor outputs are and should be around the same on the live data of the gap iid
When the dryer material fails it acts like a vacuum as the outside air can’t get in which will in due course overheat the motor and output pressure wise drops
Also found the pressure garden sprayers with the lance work very well getting on top of the strut Voss connections when using soapy water , tried it in standard and off road height as they don’t always leak in each height settings
Of course hope none of that is trying to teach u how to suck eggs
Indeed plse let us know how u get on
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21st Oct 2024 4:24 am
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 595
Hi,
Still not had chance to get the spray out and work my way around the motor. I did however plug the IID tool in and got the live readings (I think).
Found "Galley pressure" under the suspension values...
Ranged between 21psi and 219psi. Another value I looked at when it was reading 219psi was "reservoir valve percentage open" and that said 100%.
Not really sure what any of that means. Working today, but will hopefully get chance to get the spray bottle out this evening if it's not dark when I get home.
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