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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
  
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My project has halted, at least for the moment whilst I ponder the results.
I have been working with just the 2 front sensors so that the front can raise evenly without having to bother with all 4 sensors. I have been able to change the sensor voltages at standard height to approx access mode height values, initially with a door open to prevent height changes to allow readings to be obtained. However the desired effect was not observed and some unexpected effects were observed. Correcting my above post, the LF sensor voltage increases as height increases whilst the RF decreases as height increases and my circuit takes this into account.
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 31st Dec 2009 8:59 pm |
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Baggy
Member Since: 11 Feb 2006
Location: sydney.....in the land of oz
Posts: 183
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jonesy63 wrote:I suspect it was the lawyers they used - "it was the vibe" 
 '11 TDV6 - Stornoway Grey.... still lovin' it!!
REDUCE GREENHOUSE GASSES.......Eat more BEEF!!
Addendum: Red wine goes REALLY well with BEEF
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| 3rd Jan 2010 9:35 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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I have determined that the D4 sensors (at least) are not simple potentiometers but are certain to contain an IC which is most likely just a variable voltage regulator. Based on information supplied earlier, perhaps the sensors have changed from simple potentiometers to a more reliable device.
The sensor signal needs to be intercepted, modified if extra height is required then sent on its way. This is simple and cheap to achieve using a baby Picaxe microprocessor for each sensor to increase or decrease by a fixed voltage depending on the wheel. Approx 0.7V was the observed difference between normal height and off-road height sensor voltages. I will build a new test unit but unless M & F sensor connectors can be found, I expect only to test on 1 or 2 wheels foir quite some time as I will not be cutting wires on my new vehicle.
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| 10th Jan 2010 7:25 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Just an update on the progress of my current development...
I have been bench-testing a 4-sensor unit that caters for 2 sensor voltages increasing whilst the other 2 decrease as height increases. It intercepts the 4 voltages and outputs 4 modified voltages. Apart from discovering manufacturing differences between ICs that required the addition of a very small calibration voltage adjustment (1 IC more than the other 3), the testing has gone to plan. I have 2 switch settings to provide 1" & 2" extra height, plus standard height.
Next step is to fit to the vehicle when time permits to see if it works for real.
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| 5th Feb 2010 11:37 pm |
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daveyb
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: SF
Posts: 135
  
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Great work Graeme!! Keep it up (intended pun) 2006 D3 Tonga Green
275/65/18 GY DuraTracs - ARB w/ EP9.0 - Sasquatch Rods
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| 6th Feb 2010 12:05 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Is it likely to be an impediment for people to have to wire a device in rather than just plug it in, cutting into 4 wires and connecting to power and earth? No runs of wires req'd except to pickup an appropropriate power source and the locating of the switch and tri-colour LED.
I'll probably put my switch & LED in the top of the drivers accessory power outlet dummy plug, with the wires running out through a gap near the bottom of the socket unless I find a reasonable spot elsewhere.
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| 6th Feb 2010 1:20 am |
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StornowaySA
Member Since: 23 Sep 2007
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 406
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I think most would agree its a minor inconvenience when compared to ultimate results! MY2010 D4 HSE 3.0, e-diff, 19inch MTR's; LLAMS Height adjustor, LR f & r light guards, LR side steps, LR bright finish side door mouldings; LR/Mantec G4 front bash plate, LR G4 Winch kit, Warn 9500lb Winch; GOE compressor guard, Uniden UHF, LR bright finish roof rails, LR G4 driving light kit, LR G4 ladder, 4 x extra rear compartment 12V sockets, Traxide dual battery system and Optima Yellowtop battery, ORS drawer system / fridge slide, LED rear compartment lighting.
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| 7th Feb 2010 11:04 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Thanks BlackAdelaide.
I estimate that it will only take about an hour or so to install, having now gone through the process of gaining access to the wires. I've changed the power source from 12V to use a sensor 5V supply (<20mA) so that the unit is powered whenever the sensors are powered. This also means that its not possible for a voltage outside the range of 0-5V to get to the suspension ecu if the unit's hardware or software fails, ensuring that it cannot damage the ecu.
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| 8th Feb 2010 1:33 am |
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DiscoJools
Member Since: 31 Jan 2008
Location: Mornington Peninsula
Posts: 132
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Been following the "suspension up" closely. Just wondered if anybody had considered having 2 positions for the suspension sensors? I was looking at them the other day and thought it might be a possibility. Easier than changing the rods maybe? 2.7 D4 eDiff, Traxide Dual battery, Safari Snorkel...Opposite Lock winch bar..extra set 17" wheels with 245/70/17 BFG KM2 MTs..Warrior winch..Long range tank.
1982 2dr RRC renovated.
1983 Range Rover 2dr fitted with 300Tdi (with bigger turbo), 40mm body lift, Warn 9000i winch and BFG MT 265/75/16. Rear Maxidrive locker
1976 Landcruiser BJ40 with tipper body for the farm!!
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| 8th Feb 2010 7:09 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Slotting 1 hole to allow rotation of the sensor should do it, if you can get it just right.
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| 8th Feb 2010 8:30 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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Have system:
Replaces rods with adjustable (two position) rods.
Gives 35mm of lift from standard so when system is on gives a height slightly lower than off road height on normal height setting. This gives a softer ride than off road height.
Great for rough tracks where normal height causes grounding on ruts or bumps.
So corresponding lift in all settings. Will still go into extended when in off road height and on but super-extended when on is not advised and would probably give suspension faults.
DSC still works with system activated.
Works off the air from the compressor and has an outlet or airing up the tyres (for model up to MY08). “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 8th Feb 2010 8:52 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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caverD3 wrote:This gives a softer ride than off road height.
Off road height prevents my vehicle from hitting the front bump-stops on my driveway but is generally a harsher ride, and can't be maintained at the 60-70kph that I normally do anyway. Somewhere in between should be a good compromise. If my system works I may have to increase the 1" lift a little to get a bit more bump-stop clearance although fitting a softer D3 front anti-roll bar (when it arrives) might make enough difference.
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| 8th Feb 2010 7:50 pm |
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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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I like the idea of the D3 ARB. certainly seems top be the cause of the harsh ride on the D4.
Does it handle corrugations as well as a D3 or does it hop?
It may need different clamps/bushes for the D3 bar? Think about trying poly bushes instead.  “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 8th Feb 2010 10:46 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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D4 bars are the same diameter as the D3s. Only the front will be fitted because the body has to be lifted to R&R the rear one so I'm told (wrecker couldn't extract it), and at least 1 body mount removed from what I can see. I haven't had confirmation that the rear ones are different although I expect so.
I don't know how either handle corrugations but the D4 shocks are stiffer so maybe it will do better, especially when loaded. I know that the D4 front gets pulled-down into depressions by the ARB because the ride is so dramatically improved with the bar removed, allowing the springs and shocks to do their jobs.
LR state that the D4 has more flexible ARB bushes to offset the harshness of a stiffer bar, so they will definitely be staying in place as I want as little inteference from the ARB as possible.
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| 9th Feb 2010 6:43 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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That's interesting what they have done with the D4 suspension wise.
It has however been slammed by 4x4 mags for its harsh and non compliant ride on dirt roads.
It is a pity as the D3 was so good especially on corrugations. But too bouncy on rough tracks when loaded up.
Maybe D4 shocks on a D3?
D3 had soft bushes for the ARB, so soft they had to put spacers in later on. 
It will be intersting to seehow it changes the handling and ride.
Rear bar definately needs the body to be lifted, if only slightly, all eight body bolts need to be undone and the rear body mounts removed to remove the rear ARB. Nothing else needs to be undone just the bolts removed. Electrical connectors can stay.
If you want the pics as well let me know.
Rear Stabilizer Bar (64.35.08)
Removal
CAUTION : It is possible to install the stabilizer bar incorrectly. Note the position of the stabilizer bar before removal.
1 . WARNING : Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands.
Raise and support the vehicle.
2 . Remove the rear bumper cover.
For additional information, refer to Bumpers, 501-19.
3 . Remove the spare wheel and tire.
4 . Raise the vehicle.
5 . Remove the rear wheels and tires.
6 . CAUTION : Use a wrench on the hexagon provided to prevent the ball joint rotating.
Release both stabilizer bar links. Remove and discard the 2 nuts.
7 . Remove the body mount retaining bolts. Remove the 8 bolts.
8 . CAUTION : Only raise the body sufficiently to remove the body mount.
Carefully raise the body. Using suitable stands, raise the body to release the body mounts.
9 . Remove the 2 rear body mounts.
10 . Remove the stabilizer bar bushing. Remove the stabilizer bar clamps.
Remove the 4 bolts.
11 . CAUTION : Mark the position of the stabilizer bar.
Remove the stabilizer bar.
Installation
1 . CAUTION : Make sure the stabilizer bar is correctly installed.
Install the stabilizer bar.
2 . Install the stabilizer bar bushing.
3 . Install the stabilizer bar clamps. Tighten the 4 retaining bolts to 62 Nm (46 lb.ft).
4 . Install the body mounts.
5 . Lower the body. Remove the stands.
6 . Install the body mount retaining bolts. Tighten the 8 retaining bolts to 133 Nm (98 lb.ft).
7 . Attach both stabilizer bar links. Tighten the nuts to 115 Nm (85 lb.ft).
8 . Install the wheels and tires.
9 . Lower the vehicle.
10 . Install the spare wheel and tire.
11 . Install the rear bumper cover.
For additional information, refer to Bumpers, 501-19. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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| 9th Feb 2010 7:36 am |
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