Madrilleno
Member Since: 13 Oct 2014
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 1775
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Does anyone have a howto for replacing the rear propshaft centre bearing? There are two rules for success,
1. Never tell everything you know.
D4 gone!
D5
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 30th Mar 2017 7:29 pm |
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Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 692
 
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Don't. waste of effort. Swap the shaft - 10-15 minute job.
I paid local garage more to change the bearing than a new one cost from AF
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| 30th Mar 2017 7:47 pm |
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JksD4
Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 100
 
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Agreed - new propshaft is best. I found the universal couplings etc on the old prop moved a bit clunky compared to the nice smooth movement on the new shaft.
Got one from AF  MY2010 D4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Stornaway grey
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:06 pm |
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Madrilleno
Member Since: 13 Oct 2014
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 1775
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Hmm. Propshaft £290, bearing £41. Labour £35ph (or 0 if I do it myself). Either way it would be significantly cheaper for the bearing. There are two rules for success,
1. Never tell everything you know.
D4 gone!
D5
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:12 pm |
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Apache
Member Since: 17 Oct 2011
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 692
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That's fine, but mine went again 6 months later and still needed the new shaft. Garage won't do them any more.
Don't forget the forum 5% discount
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:15 pm |
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JksD4
Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 100
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Did mine using axle stands - once the rear heat shield is removed both ends are pretty accessible. You need to rotate the prop to get at all the bolts.
Mine is a D4 automatic - so I put the transmission in neutral and had one rear wheel raised - ensure the wheels are very well chocked, but then take the park brake off and rotate the prop by turning the rear wheel. (do this while NOT under the car just to be sure).
Before you remove the old prop, mark each end across the flanges, and mark the new one in the same place so you can align it all correctly. MY2010 D4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Stornaway grey
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:16 pm |
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Barn1e
D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
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I read through quite a few threads on here and web before deciding I could not access the tools to do a proper job and bought the complete prop shaft. I recall some have added a new rubber/silicon cone over the failed rubber to buy time whilst saving for new prop. 2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:19 pm |
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JksD4
Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Highlands
Posts: 100
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I used the silicon approach - lasted a good few weeks until I got around to getting the new prop fitted. MY2010 D4 3.0 TDV6 HSE Stornaway grey
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:24 pm |
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Simonstarski
Member Since: 24 Jun 2012
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 686
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Just had a new prop and rear diff..
Painful on the wallet but the quiet drive it worth it.. Narpy Grill, tinted windows, Smooth leather wheel (TLO Group buy), ACM fitted (thanks TLO), Rear door loom and Row 2 & 3 audio switch upgrade, RRS 20" wheel change, 285 Cooper LTZ's Sat Nav Mod (until I get a Faultmate upgrade), Front & Rear lamp guards. 4x4 screen now switched on - Woody32, Follow me home reverse lights - woody32, Auto release EPB - Woody32. Off Road Navigation - Woody32. Remap + EGR's switched off. Full chassis clean and Waxoyl.
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:50 pm |
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Moo
D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 14276
 
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Buy a new one. Life's too short to bother changing the bearing. New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner 
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
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| 30th Mar 2017 8:52 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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We used to change quite a few centre bearings on the truck props, some worked just fine, others turned into a vibration nightmare, in the end we got a spare one and had new bearing fitted and prop balanced then it was a 30 min job if you took your time.
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| 30th Mar 2017 9:03 pm |
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IOM man
Member Since: 03 Nov 2013
Location: Peel
Posts: 303
 
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I considered just changing the centre bearing as I have changed them on other vehicles in the past but I went for a complete prop, I am glad I did as the rear Uj was notchy - 20-30min job to do Current:
2010 Discovery 4 HSE TDV6
2020 Audi Q2 TSFI 40 Aline Quattro Black Edition
2006 Audi RS4 4.2 V8 - Toy in the garage 
Gone but not forgotten:
2006 Range Rover Sport HSE TDV6
2018 Lexus NX 300 F Sport Hybrid
2005 Discovery 3 HSE TDV6
2015 Discovery HSE Lux
200 Discovery TDI
300 Discovery TDI
Land Rover 90 2.5 Diesel
Series III SWB Land Rover 2.25 diesel
TD4 Freelander Kalahari
1.8 petrol Freelander
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| 30th Mar 2017 10:07 pm |
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highlands
Member Since: 11 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5098
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My old D3 ran for about 4 or more years with a Sikaflex 'fix' to the rubber bearing support.
It ran with no problems whatsoever.
My current D3 has had Sikaflex applied about 2 years ago. Again, no problems.
Of course, if the bearing itself is failing that won't fix it. Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
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| 30th Mar 2017 10:12 pm |
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Madrilleno
Member Since: 13 Oct 2014
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 1775
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Thanks everyone. Still undecided which way to go. I'll have to give it some thought. There are two rules for success,
1. Never tell everything you know.
D4 gone!
D5
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| 31st Mar 2017 9:21 am |
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