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Jimjimney
Member Since: 10 Jul 2016
Location: Spain
Posts: 40
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Drivetrain noise under acceleration, is it normal? |
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Fantastic site thank you.
I’ve been working through my 2006 150k d3 for a year now, replaced so many parts to get rid of knocking, vibrations, shudders.
I’ve just flushed the diffs, filter and sump replacement on the auto box and changed the transfer fluid. Put some ‘shudder fix’ in the gearbox and combined with new fluid my shudder under acceleration has gone (for now at least)
I’m getting a slight grinding noise / sensation only when under load, in neutral I’ve not got it at all. It’s more obvious at lower speeds as I think it gets drowned out at higher speeds (at2’s).
My front diff had a fair amount of swarf so I was worried about it but as coasting along in neutral the noise isn’t there I don’t think it’s that.
I can also feel it through the accelerator, I’m assuming it’s from the gearbox but hope there’s something else to try.
There’s a little slack in the drive train, so from coasting to back under load there’s a little clunk. I’ve also got an expedition prep’d (v heavy) 2004 Auto v8 d2 and by comparison it’s smooth as silk.
Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks
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9th Jan 2018 9:34 am |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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My front diff was noisy, and had swarf in the oil. I refurbed a D4 unit and fitted that, which cured some but not all of the noises.
I then looked at the front prop. The front joint had a 'knot' in it, and when I replaced that as well, the noises stopped. New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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9th Jan 2018 10:24 am |
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Jimjimney
Member Since: 10 Jul 2016
Location: Spain
Posts: 40
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Thanks was it noisy all the time or not when coasting in neutral ?
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9th Jan 2018 10:38 am |
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Kilovolt
Member Since: 29 Jun 2015
Location: South Derbyshire
Posts: 1055
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I found with my D4 tyre wear was a big contributor to noise (road noise, hum etc.).
Had some new tyres a few months back (just Scorpions) and it quietened down dramatically. Back to normal if you like.
How are your tyres?
Just a thought. "Track day running - Don't put your foot back on the accelerator until your absolutely sure you don't have to take it off again"
Current Ride: D4 XS Commercial Baltic Blue SDV6 fully loaded with heated everything
Track Days: BMW E36 M3 Evolution MY 1996 (3.2 Litre 377 BHP sat in 1,250 Kgs of car, with a pro safety cage and some serious braking power)
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9th Jan 2018 10:48 am |
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Jimjimney
Member Since: 10 Jul 2016
Location: Spain
Posts: 40
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My tyres are ok, they are at’2 so certainly have some road noise but I live up a mountain with no sealed road so need all terrains. It’s a great point but it’s a very definite noise only under power, if I get up to say 40mph and slip into neutral the noise goes, same if I stop accelerating. Thanks
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9th Jan 2018 10:59 am |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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Yes, only under load Jimjimney New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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9th Jan 2018 6:30 pm |
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Jimjimney
Member Since: 10 Jul 2016
Location: Spain
Posts: 40
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Ok great I’ll have a look at the prop, so where was the problem on the prop.. sorry I’m not overly technical. I’m sure less keen on replacing the diff 😐 .. it was left to run fairly dry by the previous owner, but my fault I should of checked it sooner.
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9th Jan 2018 6:58 pm |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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It was the front joint of the front prop - it just had a bit of stiffness in one place as you tried to articulate it through a full 360 degrees.
You can just get the prop out with the diff in place, but its a lot easier if the diff is out too. My first bet would be the diff. They are known to be marginal, and if you have swarf in the oil, its a pretty good bet that its toast.
I bought a low mileage unit from a D4, which is almost identical. Check the ratios - manuals and petrols may be different.
I put new carrier bearings in the D4 unit before fitting, which perhaps wasn't necessary, but I thought it would be easier before it was fitted. There is a slight difference in the bearing part numbers between D3 and D4. The D4 Timken's weren't held in stock anywhere, I had to put in a special order and wait for the next shipment from Timken's European HQ at Stuttgart. New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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9th Jan 2018 9:00 pm |
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Jimjimney
Member Since: 10 Jul 2016
Location: Spain
Posts: 40
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Excellent thank you for the detail. I will certainly look into that. 👍👍
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9th Jan 2018 10:31 pm |
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