Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
Can a poor battery cause a unusual fbh fault?
Hi all,
Got a unusual problem im having with my fbh which im starting to think that could be down to a poor battery. The problem is the fbh wont start if my engine is cold when started, it will try to start but shut down as soon as smoke is emmited ffrom the exhaust. However if i turn the climate control off to provent the fbh starting, drive a few hundred yards and then turn it on, it will fire up every time. Also if i connect the WTT softwear it will fire from cold no problems at all. It does however have the fault code "02h" when i read it with the WTT software.
So as previously said above, my battery isnt the best, i think its one cell that isnt right on it as it holds charge fine and always start the truck but most times starting from cold it throws up the "specail programs not available". It also has a voltage of about 12.3v when everything is shut down
So my question is, could the fbh starting problem be caused by the the low battery voltage causing a can-bus error so its shutting the fbh down or is it a fault with the fbh its self?
Many thanks
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
30th Nov 2017 2:59 pm
Nexmor
Member Since: 09 Dec 2017
Location: Frankfurt
Posts: 1
Hi Pete,
On the one hand issues are not good at all on the other habd good to hear that I‘m not the only one having exact the same issues. I visited a Webasto repair Center and asked the guys if they can fix the FBH not fireing. The technician told me that they are not allowed to perform repairs on oem installed heaters. Anyway, after a couple of words he connected his notebook direkt to the FBH (pin 2 and ground) and read the faults. So one fault, the same as yours. He deleted the fault and fired the heater by using the software. It started immediately. Well, it did it‘s job just once after the reset so I did further investigation. I realised that if a battery charger is.ä connected to the battery the FBH is fireing up as expected even if the motor is old. Have you made any progress?
Marcus
9th Dec 2017 7:00 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
A low voltage will prevent the FBH from firing and will log a diagnostic code. When on running on alternator or external power it should spring back into life.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
No diagnostic codes for low voltage, just the “02h” one.
As my unit is coming up to about 10,000 hours and over 400 running I’m beginning to thing the unit is just a bit tired. I think the metal cup may be on its way out.
I took a gamble on a used unit off eBay that was very cheap. Plugged it up and it’s showing 4,000 hrs and under 70hrs actual running time. I stripped down the unit and was pretty much spotless inside. So I’m going to fit that unit and then strip my old unit down properly to see what the fault actually is, it’s either going to be the cup or the glow plug I would think that needs replacing.
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
9th Dec 2017 8:13 pm
flrun
Member Since: 01 Feb 2008
Location: France
Posts: 5
What is the under-voltage which prevent FBH to run ?
I have sometimes the same issue and I guess it is due to a low battery.
10th Dec 2017 5:13 pm
Russellg
Member Since: 24 Oct 2017
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 48
I had a similar issue today:- (Note just read the last line below if you want to skip the waffle)
Began with trouble starting the D3 up after 3 days sitting idle in Aviemore, -8 deg C displayed on the dash.
Took three attempts to start, each with double glow plug and even on the third attempt it struggled, but thankfully started.
However the FBH did not fire up, despite running flawlessly since I’ve owned the car for the last month or so. I idled for 10-15mins while brushing the snow/ice off the windows and loading the family.
Before starting the journey I stopped the car and restarted, still no FBH. It then took an age to get the cabin warm, but it did drop to -11 outside on the journey.
I’m putting it down to three low battery situations while cranking the engine - after driving for a couple of hours I put the IID BT on, primed the FBH ran a test, no issues.
However on a side note I have had and issue with the temp gauge since I bought the car, never warming up to operating temperature, maybe reaching 1/4 on the gauge. I suspect a coolant temp or oil temp sender (will check that before I change the thermostat).
In any case if the FBH doesn’t fire up tomorrow I’ll hook up direct to the FBH and check it with ThermoTest.
So, in a nut shell that’s another vote for poor starter battery/low cranking amps.
10th Dec 2017 10:10 pm
Coo
Member Since: 01 Jun 2015
Location: Fife, Scotland
Posts: 284
Think I've had this issue this weekend.... -5 outside.
Already replaced alternator, battery next I think!
11th Dec 2017 10:29 am
zinke
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
Well I tried to fit a Jaguar fbh to mine yesterday (didn’t work and caused all sorts of trouble, but that’s a different story). In the end I took the burning chamber, glow plug etc from the jag unit and fitted it to the Land Rover fan and circuit board and got it working that way.
I left the battery on charge last night. First thing this morning, about minus 2, I plugged in the laptop and ran it from the wtt software. It struck up first time and ran perfectly at full burn, so as soon as it was on full power and I knew it was running right I switched it off before it did any warming. I then connect it back to be controlled by the car. I left it 15 mine to get rid of any residual heat from starting it with the laptop. I then started the truck up and the heater ran fine. I drove about 3 miles and then parked for 10 mins and when i started it up again the heater fired up fine, so I thought I won. I drove about another 8 miles and parked up again but this time for about 3 hours. When I started it up this time I had not fbh again
Another thing to meantion is that it always try’s to start the heater, the fans fun and get some smoke but it doesn’t keep running.
So tonight I’m going to leave my truck on charge again and see what happens I’m the morning, if it runs with a freshly charged battery, I’ll buy a new battery and see if that helps but I can’t see how it will help as once the truck is started the power will be coming from the alternator anyway.
Anybody got any ideas, begging to tear my hair out now lol.
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
11th Dec 2017 5:48 pm
Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
Why do you want the fbh? It is a half-hearted lash up to try to squeeze a dirty engine through the emission test by getting it off the cold-start cycle quicker
Just disconnect it New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
11th Dec 2017 8:31 pm
zinke
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
Because I like to be warm at work. If you spend a lot of time off road the heater never gets warm and the engine runs cool which is no good for it at all.
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
11th Dec 2017 8:38 pm
Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
My fbh hasn't worked for several years, but the engine does reach normal temp and the heater blows warm.
Perhaps check the thermostat?
I am thinking of replacing mine with a mains electric one. Warm before start up New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
11th Dec 2017 11:09 pm
zinke
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
Thermostat is good it’s just if you don’t get out of low box the engine doesn’t reach temp at all when it’s below freezing. If I go drive on the road then it gets up to temp no problem, all be it much slower than with the heater working.
Rather than fitting a electric heater it would be much easier and more convenient to fit a timer or remote to the webasto heater that’s already fitted would it not?
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
12th Dec 2017 4:01 pm
zinke
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
Well my heater started this morning after the battery being on charge all night
But it also started ok later on in the day after I got the “special programs” message so maybe I’m barking up the wrong tree with the weak battery idea, don’t fancy spending £100 on a battery and it not curing the fault.
With a new combustion chamber and glow plug in my old fbh and it always starting fine on the wtt software I’m becoming more convinced it’s not the fbh that is the problem though.
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
12th Dec 2017 4:07 pm
zinke
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
Well it wasn’t on charge last night but it started up ok this morning. Really got me confused now as to why it starts sometimes but not others ...
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
13th Dec 2017 4:22 pm
zinke
Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584
So I ended up putting a new fuel pump on and this appears to have cured the faults, I also blew out the fuel lines with a airline while the pump was being changed, not sure if that helped at all.
Pete.IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.
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