Member Since: 05 Nov 2022
Location: Stafford
Posts: 13
Fuel Burning Heater (FBH) Manual control
I have a LR4 2011 HSE which always puts a smile on my face when I’m out in it. It irritated me that the timed climate control for the FBH was missing from the menu on the central display. I was looking at putting in a remote control but at £200 I didn’t see it as value for either money or my time fitting it. I was watching Simon on a #PowerfulUK YouTube video on unboxing the GAP iiD tool and wondered if the vehicle could be reconfigured, so it did have timed climate. So today at - 8 deg C I gave it a go. Reconfiguring the vehicle with the CCF menu isn’t for the anxious or those of a nervous disposition as the GAP tool takes control over the car and starts and stops it as well as rewriting the ECU. There is a point where you have an oh FS moment when the car starts for about half a second stops and goes dead. Just wait, make sure your battery is fully charged and not on its last legs, and the car will reboot and fire up. After you do it, don't forget to set the time and date again.
Anyway, I now have the Climate Control on the main menu. So it can be done on an early LR4 with the Denso unit, but I really think it could be done on a LR3 too. Anybody managed to do it?
15th Dec 2022 12:16 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10689
I don't think it can be done with the D3. (apparently the preproduction cars had it though).
Simon has some videos showing you how to enable it on a D4
15th Dec 2022 12:49 pm
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 114
Re: Fuel Burning Heater (FBH) Manual control
Discofixer2 wrote:
After you do it, don't forget to set the time and date again.
Not only ! You have to set again all your audio settings. And don't forget to teach all your side windows for the top position. Close, release the button and maintain it up a couple of seconds - For each 4 window. That's necessary for the windows closes on double lock (keeping pressed the close button on key).
Nevertheless, as my "timed climate" works perfectly when programmed, the "manual heat" start and stops after just a minute... (despite cold engine, enough fuel and battery)
15th Dec 2022 6:26 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10689
seams a common complaint!
Someone on RRS forum saying that too
15th Dec 2022 6:40 pm
Discofixer2
Member Since: 05 Nov 2022
Location: Stafford
Posts: 13
Now I know why my radio stations have disappeared as well!
I didn't know about the windows, or tried them in this cold weather. If you leave them shut, will it not need resetting?
I tried the FBH this morning and it ran for about 2 minutes then stopped. I did lock the doors which may have stopped it or not. Lets know if you fix yours so it runs for 30 minutes. When I tried mine again, it said the engine needed to be started as the voltage was low. Also recorded a fault on the OBD which I cleared. I might try it tomorrow with a power supply on it and see if it runs for longer.
After all, its not the sort of job you can do in the summer.
16th Dec 2022 1:05 pm
Discofixer2
Member Since: 05 Nov 2022
Location: Stafford
Posts: 13
Link to Robbie's procedure for testing the FBH, great piece of work, there is also a strip down procedure.
16th Dec 2022 1:23 pm
Shamrock
Member Since: 16 Jun 2022
Location: South Kerry
Posts: 114
Hi Discofixer2,
1) For the windows, you can check this way : Open each 4 windows (not fully, just a couple of centimetres is enough), close all doors and lock with the smartkey, then push another time the close button and keep it pressed for about 5 seconds. All windows should close fully. If not, you must do the procedure I said for each window.
2) Testing the FBH with the Thermo-test software like in the Robbie's guide is in this case totally useless, because the FBH itself runs perfectly when programmed by "Time climate". It's only the "Manual heat" that causes issues. Nevertheless, I can run mine without any problem for many minutes with the Thermo-test despite it stops after one or two minutes with "Manual heat".
Remember the manual heat wont works if engine coolant is at working temperature, if fuel tank is not enough filled and if battery voltage is too low.
16th Dec 2022 2:46 pm
Discofixer2
Member Since: 05 Nov 2022
Location: Stafford
Posts: 13
My battery is 8 months old.
The car must have a bit of parasitic leakage when locked as the battery is losing capacity over night relative to a battery conditioner that shows its putting charge in, or that's the way it works regardless. Basically, I charged the battery up for a few days, then took off the charger, left it overnight and the next morning reconnected the charger and it showed it was charging from a low level.
However, the timed cold start uses so much electric power, I really can't see it managing 30 minutes, without external power unless it's a new battery. If you have the car unlocked then even more will be expected from it. So far, I've only managed a 30 minute cycle with a separate power supply. Without it, the timed climate cuts off before 30 minutes, as the voltage trips the logic of the programmer by being too low. I think its another great LR idea, but without more battery capacity, its not likely to manage 30 mins.
Robbie has done a great procedure for checking Parasitic leakage so that might be my next job.
One thing to note, last week the car was cover in frost. I unlocked it and put it on charge. Came back after 15 minutes and there was melted frost around the washer jets! Does the LR4 have heaters that do that, or it just a bit of washer fluid coming out and looking like it had melted the frost?
21st Dec 2022 2:53 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10689
Heated washer jets and mirrors will activate when the ignition is turned on (assuming appropriate ext temp). Well does on a d3
Maybe you have a stuck relay.
Or maybe just opening the bonnet helped defrost round the jets naturally.
21st Dec 2022 3:00 pm
Discofixer2
Member Since: 05 Nov 2022
Location: Stafford
Posts: 13
The ignition was off, interesting what happens on the D3. I need to check it out by sticking a volt meter on the fuses and seeing where the power is leaking.
Our other daily car is a IX3, which BMW didn't fill with low temp washer fluid, so last week it froze in the pipes and stayed frozen for the whole journey. No heat under the bonnet to warm them up with EV's, just a cosmetic cover and big hole with motors below.
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(despite cold engine, enough fuel and battery)
