Member Since: 16 Sep 2016
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 79
Autobox refill concern.
Just had a go at changing the fluid in the autobox using Filo's method. Pumped out 4L of dirty oil, replaced it with 4L of Ravenol 6HP fluid using the Screwfix pressure sprayer. Reconnected the oil cooler pipes and ran the engine for about a minute, shifting through R, N, D and back to P. Then repeated the whole procedure - pumped out 4L of oil, added 4L of new oil then reconnected the cooler pipes and ran the box through the P, R, N, D cycle again.
So far all good.
Then decided to check the level in the box using the level plug on the box. It was seriously tightly in - extension on my 1/2" ratchet to loosen it. Anyhow when the plug was removed about 300ml of oil came pi**ing out (probably, seemed a lot when it was going all over the drive but I caught most of it in an upside down Frisbee).
So I'm now a bit confused - I'm very sure I didn't add that much more oil when I pumped it in, so was the box overfilled originally or has the pumping out process taken oil from somewhere which hasn't refilled (torque converter?) and now the box is actually low on oil. Does the fact that it was at 18deg.C not the 30-40deg.C matter - I'd have thought the oil would be higher when it was warm or is it that some valve opens at which causes the sump level to drop?
Hmmm!
10th Mar 2018 4:30 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
hi
did u have the engine running when u checked the atf level
it must be between 30-35c if it goes above 40c you have to let it cool down abit
however if it’s at 40c and a little bit of oil spills out that’s correct, just allow it to stop trickling out then when it does put the plug back in and torque accordingly , 35nm
may i ask what what u using to check the temp plse
Last edited by gstuart on 10th Mar 2018 4:49 pm. Edited 1 time in total
10th Mar 2018 4:42 pm
cleland72
Member Since: 16 Sep 2016
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 79
Ah, no the engine wasn't running - that could make a difference. I was using a digital thermometer on the oil that had come out - original intention had been to stick the probe into the sump through the fill hole.
Edited to add - sounds like I need to go back and RTFM!
10th Mar 2018 4:48 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Ah, no the engine wasn't running - that could make a difference. I was using a digital thermometer on the oil that had come out - original intention had been to stick the probe into the sump through the fill hole.
that’s the issue , u must have the engine running and at the correct temperature
enclosed a write up for u and don’t forget to put the aircon on
the infrared thermometers are very good as u can then check the actual casing temp in different areas
as the oil is low, if i may suggest don’t drive it until it’s at the correct level
hope that’s helps
10th Mar 2018 4:53 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Yes needs to be running and thats true of practially all mainstream autos on the planet, cars/cans/trucks all the same idea.
Lots of autos have two min/max levels on the dipstick one for hot and one for cold, much easier than faffing about with temp gauges.
I to used Filos method and reckon its great/fast and clean
Chalk it up to experience plenty will have made the same mistake, and plenty will make the same mistake in the future
10th Mar 2018 5:27 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
engine needs to be running
10th Mar 2018 6:38 pm
cleland72
Member Since: 16 Sep 2016
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 79
Thanks all - I'll have another crack tomorrow, with the engine running and with the box up to temperature.
Normally I think I would just use Filo's method but as the car's new to me I like to check that things are as they should be, rather than hoping the box had the correct level of fluid....
10th Mar 2018 6:40 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10372
If you can
Start engine
Remove plug
Fill box thru hole till it drips out.
By the time you have done that it will probably be up to temp.
Refit plug and switch off
10th Mar 2018 8:15 pm
cleland72
Member Since: 16 Sep 2016
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 79
Cheers, will do that - got a couple of big FO syringes to do the transfer box oil, one will do for the gearbox.
10th Mar 2018 8:36 pm
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1115
gstuart wrote:
Ah, no the engine wasn't running - that could make a difference. I was using a digital thermometer on the oil that had come out - original intention had been to stick the probe into the sump through the fill hole.
that’s the issue , u must have the engine running and at the correct temperature
enclosed a write up for u and don’t forget to put the aircon on
the infrared thermometers are very good as u can then check the actual casing temp in different areas
as the oil is low, if i may suggest don’t drive it until it’s at the correct level
hope that’s helps
I am not sure what the source of that document is but the temps listed are not correct.
According to the genuine LR workshop manual contained in Topix the temp of the oil in the gearbox is to be below 30 degrees before any work commences and the actual checking of the level is to be down with gearbox temp is between 30 and 50 degrees. The 30-35 listed in your doc will still work but if temps are say up around 45 by your instructions the oil would be too hot which is not the case.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
gstuart wrote:
Ah, no the engine wasn't running - that could make a difference. I was using a digital thermometer on the oil that had come out - original intention had been to stick the probe into the sump through the fill hole.
that’s the issue , u must have the engine running and at the correct temperature
enclosed a write up for u and don’t forget to put the aircon on
the infrared thermometers are very good as u can then check the actual casing temp in different areas
as the oil is low, if i may suggest don’t drive it until it’s at the correct level
hope that’s helps
don't beleive everything you read
11th Mar 2018 4:24 pm
cleland72
Member Since: 16 Sep 2016
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 79
Process repeated now with the engine running, aircon on and final ATF temperature of 41deg. C when I replaced the cap whilst a dribble of fluid ended up on the exhaust crosspipe. Even managed to avoid burning myself on the cat.
I didn't count but I think it took somewhere between 800ml and 1L (filled it with a 100ml syringe and pipe) - it's hard to tell but I think that's more than came out yesterday when the engine was off, so it might have been a bit light on fluid. Hopefully that might have cured the occasional snatch when pulling away, we shall see.
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