Member Since: 11 Oct 2022
Location: Bolton
Posts: 29
Starter
2010 D4 will not start.
I am getting nothing from the starter motor
Before I spend a lot of money on a new one, are there any common problems to look at first
I have tried giving it a bang, connections etc
TIAUp a creek...now where have I stashed the paddle
14th Sep 2023 7:46 pm
Sylvester19
Member Since: 17 Jul 2020
Location: Central Scotland
Posts: 128
Earth strap ok?
14th Sep 2023 10:38 pm
popsdosh
Member Since: 09 Nov 2009
Location: cambs
Posts: 442
if all dash lights on and nothing from starter its most likely the earth strap , very easily checked ! attach a jump lead to negative on battery and the other end onto metal on the engine . If it starts now its the earth strap and you have a few options some easier than others in my view the easier the better.
15th Sep 2023 5:14 am
Snoopy11
Member Since: 11 Oct 2022
Location: Bolton
Posts: 29
Will try this when i get homeUp a creek...now where have I stashed the paddle
15th Sep 2023 12:20 pm
Snoopy11
Member Since: 11 Oct 2022
Location: Bolton
Posts: 29
Swopped R18 and R13 in fusebox - no change
Used jump lead from metal lifting bracket to negative battery terminal
No change
All lights coming on and system check but getting nothing.
Is this pointing to a new starter motor (any recommendations where to get one)Up a creek...now where have I stashed the paddle
15th Sep 2023 4:41 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
Can you hear a "click" when you turn to the start position?
Is the shift lever in the correct position?
Sometimes the cable becomes seized where it joins to the shift lever on the transmission causing misalignment. You think it's in neutral or park but it's actually in between a shift position, and the isolator won't allow it to start as it thinks the car is in gear/drive
Any diagnostic codes?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th Sep 2023 5:54 pm
Snoopy11
Member Since: 11 Oct 2022
Location: Bolton
Posts: 29
I don't have a code reader but it has had no issues before this with shifting through the positions.
Its a pushbutton start and I don't hear a click when pressing itUp a creek...now where have I stashed the paddle
16th Sep 2023 11:05 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
In that case you'd be better to have the codes read first before firing any parts cannon.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
16th Sep 2023 11:59 am
KPTV8
Member Since: 05 Feb 2012
Location: Itinerant !! (Scotland/Donegal)
Posts: 187
My very low mileage D4 occasionally fails to crank - all looks OK, battery is fine but no sign of cranking (and I can't remember if there's a click or not, I don't REMEMBER a click).
On previous occasions I've just switched off, walked away, come back in 5 mins and everything has returned to normal - however had an INTERESTING break/insight a few days ago :-
1. Jumped in car (which was warm and was parked only 30 mins previously), tried to start and no cranking.
2. I noticed the brake pedal was going hard with VERY LITTLE downward movement, i.e. felt as though brakes would apply right at the TOP of the pedal travel. Not sure why that occurred, it's not normal.
3. So I pressed brake pedal HARD, and engine cranked and started normally.
OK, my D4 (and all previous D3s) is auto transmission, and with this car (and MAYBE with all my previous D3s, TBH I can't precisely remember ?), it's necessary to press brake pedal, as well as having tranmission in "P", in order to crank. Maybe it also cranks in position "N", I can't remember.
So, there must be a connection between brake pedal position (or more likely brake hydraulic pressure), and some relay or other interlock, to enable cranking - this raises the question whether that INTERLOCK is where the fault lies when intermittent or completely failed cranking occurs ?
I hope this is useful to someone !!! Cheers, Kevin.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
