Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 471
Rear Propshaft centre bearing: How much movement?
Having felt vibration that comes in at about 55mph, I’ve found that there is significant movement in the rubber centre mount on the rear prop.
Does anyone know how much is acceptable here, as I’m thinking that any is not right.
It doesn’t take much effort to shake mine and see the prop move. The rubber is not cracked or broken up- but is notably “soft”.
Thanks in advance.
B2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
1st Jun 2018 12:27 pm
dgardel
Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Greater Venice
Posts: 2025
no movement at all....Discovery 5 tdv6 HSE Corris Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License
1st Jun 2018 1:37 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 471
No movement..
Thanks for the quick reply.
Mine clearly has an issue then.
New GKN just ordered from JGS 4x4, and they've marked it as despatched..
Marvellous!
Land Rover Discovery 3 & 4 Rear Propshaft & Centre Bearing GKN - TVB500360
£259.00 (Inc. VAT)
Free DPD delivery
SKU:TVB500360GBrand:GKN Availability:Order In Item Weight:12.00 KGS2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
1st Jun 2018 7:32 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
Great, thanks.
I await your feedback!
Good luck formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
1st Jun 2018 8:31 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 471
2011 D4 130k propshaft centre/rear UJ very notchy...
Changed the rear prop shaft this afternoon, having had vibrations at about 55~65mph.
The bolts were worryingly loose at the front, and didn’t have the lock tabs bent over..🤨🔩.
The rear were tight, but again not anywhere near the torque setting or an issue to undo as reported on here.
The one thing that is worth mentioning is the centre bush/rubber mount. This was not as worn as I’d thought when I examined it on the car. There was up/down movement in the rubber. The OE GKN replacement had a fair amount of movement too.
The main defect and worn areas on the old unit were the UJ’s. The rear one (Diff end) was very notch and could best be described as having three positions. It would click thro’ as it was moved. This was evident in both planes of its movement.
The centre unit was also clearly stiff and nowhere near the new one in feel as it was also moved.
The front had a notchy arc, tho’ not like the rear.
The job took about 35mins. On a ramp.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
8th Jun 2018 5:26 pm
dgardel
Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Greater Venice
Posts: 2025
has the vibrations disappeared then?Discovery 5 tdv6 HSE Corris Gray Outback Engineering Limited Edition IID Pro MV License
8th Jun 2018 5:59 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 471
Good Vibes..
It seems that they’re gone. Thanks for that Manual upload a few posts back- very good of you.
Next job is chassis wire brush, black chassis paint on the rusty welds, Waxoyl Clear..
It’ll need front discs and Pads at the end of the summer, then EPB shoes.
I’d really like my timed climate turning on.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
8th Jun 2018 6:13 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
thanks for the report - how high ramps did you use? reckon it's doable by blocking up each wheel on the drive?
did you manage ok with a half inch socket set?formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
8th Jun 2018 7:36 pm
Bardley
Member Since: 02 May 2018
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 471
Tools..
It’s do-able with suspension lifted (.. and secured with stands!!), though any extra height you can get would be helpful.
The heat shield unbolted easily.
It’s actually not difficult at all if you’re competent. You’ll need a Torx spanner / Socket set, not conventional hex head remember. Something like this:
I used the E11 long spanner for the front, and a socket for the rear with a 1/2” drive bar initially, then ratchet.
Rear needed an E12 or E14 socket, and not too much effort as I said. If yours are tight, then the higher you have the car will make getting an extension bar on easier.
Centre bearing uses hex head bolts, and I Copper- Slipped mine when I put them back.
Mine was on a ramp..I just rolled the car forward to move the prop and get to the initially inaccessible bolts.
Be Safe when you do it... I was in a Pit. If you roll it fwd, you’ll need to get the body propped again before you go underneath.2011 MY D4 HSE
Previously 2001 D2 TD5, 1996 D1 300Tdi, 1985 90 2.2 petrol.
Bikes! KTM, BMW, British, Classics and others.
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