Member Since: 05 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 68
Where would you start?
This is my first post so Hi. From spending the last two/three hours reading the forum there seems to be alot of info/knowledge on hear so im hoping some of it is going to save me some time. Ive just picked up a D3 early 2006 HSE, on 135k it has various issues (where do i start) rear number plate lights not working (fuse is good so guessing an earth issue as the bulbs look quite burnt), bonnet doesn't register as shut (new catch/switch needed) most of the calipers need a overhaul as they dont "float" all things i'm more than happy dealing with.
However the main issue being the dreaded ESF. Which comes up on start up, and sits in the back ground. I drove the car back home 70+ miles after i decided to take it on as a project and it felt to be down on power but no huge clouds of smoke, only a when trying to accelerate hard(ish). Plugged it in and the F/C its throwing is P123B-00 eluding the the turbo being toast. However after reading im wondering if perhaps i should look at the IC condition, clean the MAP sensor, check the actuator is free before ripping into changing he turbo?
So my question where would you start in getting the ESF sorted? TIA
6th Oct 2018 2:16 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Hi and welcome
Suppose personally the first place I would start is ensure the belts have been replaced , check oil pump cover as well to ensure it’s the reinforced one , normally change them at the same time the belts are done , piece of mind
Indeed as u mention , Turbo could just be a sticking actuator arm, map sensor is clean, blank the egrs , but leave the pipes in situ , just use some blanking plates between the egr pipes and engine block, remove the butterfly valve at the same time
Check ur intercooler hoses are tight and no splits , also check the horizontal jubilee clamp next to ur turbo , as per pic
Smoke will normally be ( as u look at the engine) , split in the left hand side IC hose
Then a good service , checking oils , fuel and engine filters , brakes etc , bonnet switch, bulbs etc ,
So then u have a good baseline to work from knowing it’s safe , when is ur MOT due , any history with it
If ur going to keep it a while a great diagnostic reader is an iid made by gap , pay for themselves very quickly
Where abouts in Kent are u plse
Hope that helps
Ps, hope u don’t mind me saying , if u fill in ur profile people will then know what you have every time u post
6th Oct 2018 3:14 am
G7jtk
Member Since: 03 Jun 2014
Location: Prudhoe
Posts: 846
Hi there.
The bonnet switch may be full of crud. Clean with switch cleaner. Worked for me.
6th Oct 2018 7:37 am
sarumlight
Member Since: 07 Nov 2008
Location: Off the Plain
Posts: 1590
Check the intercooler hoses really carefully before spending lots on the turbo.
6th Oct 2018 10:03 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10367
as you say:
clean the MAP sensor, check the actuator is free
check hoses for splits
6th Oct 2018 10:54 am
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 13912
Also check for holes in the intercooler itself.New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
6th Oct 2018 11:07 am
F355GTS
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: North Hampshire
Posts: 849
After checking the hoses check for a a split intercooler, not uncommon, I've had two, look for oil on the faces and on under tray nearbyMark
6th Oct 2018 11:09 am
Fewst
Member Since: 05 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 68
Thanks for the replies. Seems IC and hoses are common suggestion so I’ll be checking them over the course of this next week before i go any deeper into the turbo. Bonnet latch/switch is defo in need of replacement had previously cleaned and added lubrication to the correct areas however the lock still didn’t latch. Added an extra spring as per pic so it now locks shut when you close the bonnet but still flags as open to the dash. It’s got history, belt was done at 92,000 miles it’s about due a service so will tackle that at the same time as sorting the turbo issue, what ever that might be. Hopefully means some peace of mind over winter
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However after reading im wondering if perhaps i should look at the IC condition, clean the MAP sensor, check the actuator is free before ripping into changing he turbo?
