Hi Guys need some help please, I keep getting the amber suspension light coming on and the car sinks on her bum overnight, I've had the codes read and have the following fault codes
Time for an update guys, finally found the time to try an rectify this fault, took the N/S rear wheel of with the intension of removing the valve block, but found 2 broken wires where they had been rubbing on the wishbone. Tried to solder them back together, however the space was limit, and in the end put a patch in using choccy blocks, wheel back on, test run 8 miles and bong suspension fault, what next guys.
20th Oct 2018 9:01 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
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Can you read the codes again, note down and then clear them. Drive for 10 mins, read again and post them here?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Just checked the compressor, end cap bubbling like a good un.
22nd Oct 2018 1:44 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
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Posts: 4680
Difficult to see the codes! but if the dryer end cap is bubbling you will need to replace it as well as the desiccant and filters. If its A Hitachi compressor the caps develop a crack between the pipe connectors. Replacements are available online. When replaced, clear codes and drive it again for 10 mins, then read and post the codes again. See if you cant get a closer shot of the codes!!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Codes are,
C1A20 - Pressure increase to slow
C1130 - Air spring air supply
C1A33 - Rear left corner valve
Have just ordered the compressor repair kit
22nd Oct 2018 2:57 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
Seems you might have a valve issue as well but you need to sort the compressor leak first. Once tha'ts sorted lets see what codes show up then.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Update time, reconditioned the compressor and dryer and fitted the replacement metal end cap the original plactic one had a hair line crack and was leaking, checked system for leaks, found none, drove for 6 miles bong suspension fault.
Codes are,
C1A20 - Pressure increase to slow when filling reservoir
- Compressor exhaust (Can't remember the code)
C1130 - Air spring air supply
Your thoughts please.
24th Oct 2018 6:40 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
C1A20 suggests a leak (air escaping faster than the compressor can replenish) Often, but not limited to its a minor leak in the reservoir! The code referring to the exhaust valve could be a sticky valve losing pressure. You should be able to see the operation on the diagnostics if its a decent one. Did you dismantle and clean all components when refurbishing the compressor? C1130 could be the valve or an air leak, but I would suggest resolving C1A20 before throwing parts at it!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
I gave the compressor complete overhaul with the kit from Advanced Factors, piston rings, seals, filters the full works, I'll give the air receiver a good inspection in the morning as the car is now 11 years old could be suffering corrosion, as I know of a few cars of that age that have had new receivers.
24th Oct 2018 9:16 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
Crud can build up on the top causing pinholes, sometimes you can hear it. In live values the diagnostic tool should show you the exh valve closed 100% whilst compressor is building. Once the desired pressure is achieved the valve should momentarily open 100% and close again 100%. The other relevant components should also be available to inspect their operation in live values. You should also be able to witness the pressure fall with the leak!!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
The latest is, got the system up to pressure, checking the air receiver for leaks and then hear a hissing sound coming from the front left wheel arch (passenger side), left it for a few minutes and the front left is sinking, started her up and she pumped straight up, now to find where the leak is.
25th Oct 2018 11:28 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4680
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