Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Fuse box location
Hiya
Was wondering if I may pick ur brains please, going to add a secondary fuse box for ancillaries
Looking at locations I’m wondering about fitting it on top of the FBH bracket , however my concern is if the heat from the FBH will cause damage to the fuse box , or maybe put a shield there made out of superlux
Another location I was thinking was the upper glove box, however I did try a while back to pull that top section out to no avail
Will be a split fuse box so can run seperate supplies from my main and aux battery
Bless u as always and apologises asking a daft question
2nd Feb 2019 6:58 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10383
is there no room by the 2nd battery?
where will your "ancillaries " be? in the boot ?
2nd Feb 2019 10:59 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi Pete
Ref the aux battery, alas not really enough room
Majority of bits will be in the dashboard area , ie dashcam hardwire kit from the aux battery , volt meters for main and aux, usb connectors etc
Thought it easier using a split fuse box so can then run supplies from the main and aux battery to the fuse box, then will have fuses already to connect to what ever I wish to
also need to check the boots Amp capacity supply for my camping coolbox
Just whilst I’m laid up have spent the time to work things out , maybe the upper glove box would be best , could just run 2 x cables from the battery through the bulkhead and into the upper glove box , that’s when I can get the dam thing out
The only bulkhead wire access point I know is by the servo as mines an auto
Hope ur keeping well, any snow yet pete
2nd Feb 2019 12:04 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10383
good luck getting the upper glovebox out
Think I gave up.
I need to fix the hinge (and buy one)
maybe inline fuses (blade) or the ones which clip together.
Yes had some snow Friday. (not all gone yet).
Are far too much ice!
P.S - Amazed you aren't tempted by this FBH gadget!
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Thks Pete
Indeed it’s a right sod, gave up as I was worried of breaking it , will try again later on, did get a door card removal tool which I think may help get behind that glove box
Had to replace my lower glove box lid as the handle broke, got new hinge pins as well as I used a dremal to cut the old plastic hinge pins off
Thks for the link, will have a read of that , suprising all the mods that come up
Had a light dusting of snow, all gone , currently 5 C , remember years ago sliding on ice in my old series 2A, Taught me a valuable lesson having 4x wheel drive didn’t make an iota of difference on ice
2nd Feb 2019 2:49 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8124
Could you not utilise some of the unused fuse slots in the existing fuse box and just rename them?
Why is the breather pipe missing off your main battery?It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
2nd Feb 2019 3:01 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi
That’s a good idea , will look into that and would save me some time, will just then leave the hard wire kit from my aux battery to my dashcam
Good spot, it must have dropped down the side , thks for letting me know
2nd Feb 2019 3:45 pm
Avalon
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
Hi,
placed my ancillary fuse box in the left boot "cubby" as I also added some extra outlets for stuff in the boot. From there I also ran some wires back to the dashboard and into the middle console.
Thera are a few more images of the installation in my gallery.
Regards,
OlafDisco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
2nd Feb 2019 10:55 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi
Nice one as that’s very helpful, thks for that , handy with all the different ideas
Thks Will have a look ref the gallery
Did u run 16mm battery cable to ur fuse box in the back and what size amp rated cable did u buy please to go from the fuse box to the dashboard
Thks again
3rd Feb 2019 4:07 pm
Avalon
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
Hi,
wire gauges I used are as follows:
Battery -> power distribution board: 16mm², 100A fuse, run under sill from secondary battery compartment
1 x Dash cam (dashboard): 1,0mm² - max. 7,5A
1 x Misc. use (dashboard): 1,5mm² - max. 15A
2 x 12V socket in center console: 2,5mm² - max. 20A each
1 x USB socket in center console: 1,5mm² - max. 15A
1 x 12V for CB under passenger seat: 2,5mm² - max. 20A
2 x 12V socket on LH-pannel in the boot : 2,5mm² - max. 20A each
2 x USB socket on LH-pannel in the boot : 1,5mm² - max. 15A combined
1 x 150W converter on LH-pannel in the boot : 2,5mm² - 15A
1 x External lights: 2,5mm² - max. 20A
1 x free floating anderson plug for heavy duty use (e.g. compressor): 6 mm², 50A fuse
The multi-pin connectors used are from the Delphi GT280 and GT150 series.
The plate holding everything is made of 2mm aluminium.
Regards,
OlafDisco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
3rd Feb 2019 8:05 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi olaf
Thks a million for taking the time to post that list, extremely helpful
Good idea ref the ali plate to secure it all to the inside of the boot locker , did u just use brackets to fix the plate to mounting brackets plse
Looks very neat and tidy including it being tucked out of the way , inc , to make up the board on the kitchen table then to fix it into situ , have removed the side locker panel before when I was tracing an airbag fault so know it’s no hardship to remove it
Also is that a blue sea fuse box plse , have been looking at the split fuse box where it has 2 x positive connections, aux Battery as a permanent live then other side for extra switched
Will run mostly all my ancillaries off the aux battery as the other bits will already be wired to the main battery
may i ask where did u pick ur switched live up from please
Have got a switch panel that I’m going to replace the cig lighter panel with , got to buy the switches , will get them with green lighting to match the rest , example in pic
Bought 2 x lcd volt meters for each battery , think the overhead light panel may be the best place, plus they turn off so won’t stay on when I alarm the vehicle , have got the T max split charge system fitted, display is just dots, prefer a proper Vdc display
Have a cig lighter plug in air temperature monitor for the cabin, will get one so I can fit it to the switch panel, only ones I’ve seen have an orange display and round where I need square
Thank u so much once again for the invaluable info
3rd Feb 2019 8:39 pm
Avalon
Member Since: 01 Apr 2013
Location: Bavaria
Posts: 83
Hi Stuart,
nice to hear you like my setup .
The ali plate is secured to fittings already present.
Here are two pictures showing the places uses for securing the plate.
The "tounge" is bent around 30° forward to keep the plate flush with the lower mounting point. Two bolts secure the plate to an existing bracket on the left hand side:
On the right hand side, there is a bolt in the lower right corner that screws into a thread present:
Yes, it is a Blue Sea fuse box - like the build quality of their products.
As I connected one of the 12V sockets in the center console my permanent power system, I am using that now redundant connector to provide a switched 12V supply. There are mating T-shaped connectors available that plug in to the connector present.
My USB sockets have a voltmeter included and I also have a ctek battery sense module (https://www.ctek.com/de/products/fahrzeug/ctx-battery-sense) that gives me an overview of the battery health. My overhead light panel has no free space anymore as I have two switches there for my lights.
Regards,
OlafDisco4 V6 SC HSE (MY2014)
5th Feb 2019 3:06 pm
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 502
Hey gstuart
On my D4 in the engine bay there are 4 spare fuse slots, two are ignition controlled and 2 are permanent live. You can take the fuse box top half off really easily as there are just 2 clips at each end to release and you can get to the wires. I needed 4 connectors from a scrap car to put into the fuse slots as they just had the terminal for the power into the fuse not the terminal for the power out. I took the terminals from a D3 so I know the fuse box assy is the same.
Alternatively have you thought about piggy back fuses. They push into the fuse position and you can run a new fuse for a new circuit. I was using one at first before I got the terminals from the scrap car. Concevably you could have a piggy back off all your unused fuse positions.
Discovery 4 3.0 HSE 2010 year. I like it a lot. Now with winch 😂
5th Feb 2019 3:55 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Avalon wrote:
Hi Stuart,
nice to hear you like my setup .
The ali plate is secured to fittings already present.
Here are two pictures showing the places uses for securing the plate.
The "tounge" is bent around 30° forward to keep the plate flush with the lower mounting point. Two bolts secure the plate to an existing bracket on the left hand side:
On the right hand side, there is a bolt in the lower right corner that screws into a thread present:
Yes, it is a Blue Sea fuse box - like the build quality of their products.
As I connected one of the 12V sockets in the center console my permanent power system, I am using that now redundant connector to provide a switched 12V supply. There are mating T-shaped connectors available that plug in to the connector present.
My USB sockets have a voltmeter included and I also have a ctek battery sense module (https://www.ctek.com/de/products/fahrzeug/ctx-battery-sense) that gives me an overview of the battery health. My overhead light panel has no free space anymore as I have two switches there for my lights.
Regards,
Olaf
Hi
Thks so much as always for the very helpful Info, most appreciated
Also like the usb outlets that have the Vdc display
Indeed will be the switched live I’ve got to establish , funny enough bought a battery monitor box as well, fitted it in the boot for better range , connected it into my 12 s circuit , can then like ur good self get readings via my iPad
7th Feb 2019 11:58 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Re: Hey gstuart
charlietortoise wrote:
On my D4 in the engine bay there are 4 spare fuse slots, two are ignition controlled and 2 are permanent live. You can take the fuse box top half off really easily as there are just 2 clips at each end to release and you can get to the wires. I needed 4 connectors from a scrap car to put into the fuse slots as they just had the terminal for the power into the fuse not the terminal for the power out. I took the terminals from a D3 so I know the fuse box assy is the same.
Alternatively have you thought about piggy back fuses. They push into the fuse position and you can run a new fuse for a new circuit. I was using one at first before I got the terminals from the scrap car. Concevably you could have a piggy back off all your unused fuse positions.
Hi
Many thks as indeed that will be what I need to establish is a switched live
As mines a base model ive seen a few empty fuses on the passenger fusebox, so ideally if I find out which one is a switches live I could then run it up to the upper glove box, where I can install a small fuse box where I can then run the wires off from ,
If I get a fuse box that has the twin positive connections can then have one SWL and the other permanent, that one I’ll run off my aux battery
Got to find out which spare passengers fuses are the switches lives
Also didn’t realise the engine fuse box Un clipped like that , will be handy for when I search to retrofit some windscreen heated washer jets , assume as u mention the terminal on the other side of the fuse isn’t there and will have to get some , maybe I’ll buy a second hand fuse box off eBay , so will be useful for future projects where I can rob parts from it, also knowing 100% they will fit
Thks so much once again, really is most appreciated
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