Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
BAS EGR emulators - how to
Hi Everyone,
Finally, the day has arrived when Pete's emulators are about to hit his webshop. Until now, only Geoff or Flack had them to fit but when Pete comes back from holiday at the beginning of November he said he's putting them up on his site for general release!
My EGRs were already blanked and I have a BAS remap interface tool which is required as Pete has to supply you with a tweaked tuned file for the ECU for it to recognise the emulators.
What you get...
You open the box/bag to find two black boxes, which are the emulators, and two empty EGR male plugs. Each emulator has two conduits that exit the casing; one contains 4 pin-terminated wires which you will make up into a male plug to form a connection to the EGR loom replacing the one with the valve. The other conduit contains a single wire which will power the emulator. You'll notice that one emulator box has a longer power wire than the other, this longer wire is for the left hand EGR (the empty battery box side on RHD). Once fitted you need a tweaked map from Pete.
What you’ll need…
Existing BAS remap and interface
Blanked EGRs
Soldering iron and solder with flux core
8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets with extension bar
Stanley knife (to strip the wires you’ll splice into)
Needle nosed pliers (to help make up the plugs)
Fabric loom tape
Medium flat nosed Jeweller’s screwdriver (to undo EGR plugs from valve)
Drill with 6mm wood bit (to drill through plastic fuse box)
What you're going to do...
You’re going to unplug each EGR valve and plug the loom into these emulators instead, one on each side, you’ll need to splice the power into a suitable source; the MAF sensor on the LHS and fuse 4 of the engine fuse box on the RHS.
All references to left hand side or right hand side are looking at the engine from the front.
Disconnect and remove the battery. Remove the engine cover and the left hand spare battery tray cover.
On the left hand side, remove the airbox lid and the air filter. Release the MAF plug from the sensor and place the airbox lid somewhere safe and out of your way.
Remove all the protective trunking from the immediate small branch of the MAF plug loom and separate out the wires in the final 4 inches before they terminate in the plug.
Remove a 1cm section of the red/blue wire in position 1 to expose the core, solder the end of the power wire from the emulator with the longest power cable to this exposed wire.
Click image to enlarge
Replace the plastic trunking and use fabric loom tape to fix it in place and make good.
Run the power cable around the lower airbox section running along the inside of the left wing to enter the spare battery tray where the tray side meets the wing, through the sponge seal. The LHS emulator will live the spare battery tray.
Remove the rubber bung that seals the spare battery tray at the corner nearest the EGR valve and either make the plastic tray foramen deeper to accommodate the emulator loom or butcher the bung, either way that's where the emulator loom will exit the spare battery tray; when the loom is in place replace the bung.
Using the jeweler's screwdriver remove the LHS EGR plug from the valve (shown already removed).
Carefully observe the colour and order of the wires as they enter the female plug that you just removed from the valve and align the terminated wires from the emulator conduit into the supplied empty male plug to correspond to the diagram below. Note that you only have the four white, black, green and blue wires to worry about (the yellow is not used as the separate red supplies the power).
Remove the yellow cage from the front of the plug so that you can use your needle-nosed pliers to pull the pin ends through. The pin ends of the green and blue wires are a spade fitting and the qhite and black are pin fittings. Be aware of the necessary alignment by looking at the EGR valve male plug.
The yellow plug then clips over the ends once they've clipped in position but it only goes on one way. You'll need to spend some time getting the alignment of the ends right and push the yellow plug on with the pliers not your fingers, the terminated pin ends are sharp!! On my car the wires did not all sit in neighbouring holes.
If you've uploaded the tweaked file you can connect the two plugs and replace all the LHS covers and airbox lid. Don't forget to replace the MAF plug and the rubber bung.
That's the left side done!
On the RHS, using your 8mm socket and extension bar undo the single bolt that secures the fuse box in place. Wiggle and pull the fuse box towards the front of the car (there are no other bolts, just a plastic moulded lip) to release. Once free, pop the two clips at the front of the fuse box and pull the box apart.
Find a suitable spot on the lower front (short) surface of the fuse box to drill a 6mm hole for the emulator power cable conduit to enter the fuse box. Don't damage anything inside the box with your drill!
Turning the fuse box onto its side continue to wiggle and improve the exposure of its innards. Underneath the position of Fuse 4 is an orange/brown cable that you are going to splice the power cable of the RHS emulator into, just like you did with the LHS one;
strip 1 cm of the wire away and, having threaded the power cable through your hole in the front, solder the end of the red wire from the RHS emulator to the wire entering fuse 4. Make good with the fabric loom tape.
Replace the fuse box lid, reclip, reposition and rebolt. Replace the battery but do not connect back both terminals yet.
Release the RHD EGR plug with your jeweler's screwdriver and make up your RHS male plug.
The emulator loom will exit the bung in the box as per the LHS. The RHS emulator should squash down nicely in front of the battery and not require further fixing but the LHS emulator will need some double sided tape to stop it moving about.
Before connecting the emulator to the car Pete will need to have supplied you with the updated tuned map. Once this is uploaded you’re good to go!
Thanks a million to Pete for supplying the emulators and Geoff for taking me through the process
I checked the operation of the emulators with live values on my IIDTool and they work perfectly! I can have my MOT test tomorrow after all!
**UPDATE: Aarrggghhh! failed on on offside tie rod end!
Hope this helps someone!
Humphrey-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
Last edited by hgrimmett on 17th Oct 2014 1:41 pm. Edited 5 times in total
16th Oct 2014 8:46 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
Which system do you use to upload the map file?GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
16th Oct 2014 8:59 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
The BAS remap interface. The equipment that you buy from Bell Auto Services to upload his remap.
Basically I sent Pete back the tuned file he had originally sent me 3 years ago and he tweaked it to recognise the emulators. I returned the car to normal, uploaded the new tweaked file and hey presto, it works!-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
16th Oct 2014 9:02 pm
Chris532
Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Northeast
Posts: 111
So why is this done ?
16th Oct 2014 9:06 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
what do you mean chris why is this done
16th Oct 2014 9:07 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
hgrimmett wrote:
The BAS remap interface. The equipment that you buy from Bell Auto Services to upload his remap.
Basically I sent Pete back the tuned file he had originally sent me 3 years ago and he tweaked it to recognise the emulators. I returned the car to normal, uploaded the new tweaked file and hey presto, it works!
So without the updated map file the EGR emulators will not function? Just trying to calculate the overall cost if you don't already have the BAS remap interface.GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
16th Oct 2014 9:09 pm
Chris532
Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Northeast
Posts: 111
What is the reason for doing all of the above. Is it some form of upgrade..
16th Oct 2014 9:12 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Allan
myself and flack are moving up and down the country so they can be done by one of us if needed
16th Oct 2014 9:12 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Chris532 wrote:
What is the reason for doing all of the above. Is it some form of upgrade..
in some ways yes
16th Oct 2014 9:12 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
As is documented in much greater detail elsewhere on the forum, only 05-06MY cars can be blanked without the MIL light coming on at some point in the future. In MY07 cars, either because the engine expects some flow through the EGRs or the EGRs themselves fail, even after blanking, the MIL can illuminate.
I blanked the EGRs in my car 2 years ago but recently one of the valves failed illuminating the MIL, I have an MOT booked for tomorrow so I needed to either replace the EGRs or emulate them, I decided the long term solution was to emulate them....
I found that blanking the EGRs made the car much more responsive and mpg improved, if one of the valves hadn't failed I wouldn't have bothered with emulating them, but they did and I had to...-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
16th Oct 2014 9:14 pm
Chris532
Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Northeast
Posts: 111
I see, what are the benefits. I have a D3 with the EGR's blanked so is this one step better
16th Oct 2014 9:16 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
what year is your D3 chris
16th Oct 2014 9:17 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20750
Allan_T wrote:
hgrimmett wrote:
The BAS remap interface. The equipment that you buy from Bell Auto Services to upload his remap.
Basically I sent Pete back the tuned file he had originally sent me 3 years ago and he tweaked it to recognise the emulators. I returned the car to normal, uploaded the new tweaked file and hey presto, it works!
So without the updated map file the EGR emulators will not function? Just trying to calculate the overall cost if you don't already have the BAS remap interface.
Do you have to have a BAS remap to make use of the emulators?My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Northeast
Posts: 111
Thanks hgrimmett all is clear now
16th Oct 2014 9:18 pm
geoff.
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Allan_T wrote:
hgrimmett wrote:
The BAS remap interface. The equipment that you buy from Bell Auto Services to upload his remap.
Basically I sent Pete back the tuned file he had originally sent me 3 years ago and he tweaked it to recognise the emulators. I returned the car to normal, uploaded the new tweaked file and hey presto, it works!
So without the updated map file the EGR emulators will not function? Just trying to calculate the overall cost if you don't already have the BAS remap interface.
Do you have to have a BAS remap to make use of the emulators?
no but you would need the required tools to programme the ecu to accept the emulators
Last edited by geoff. on 1st Nov 2014 4:47 am. Edited 1 time in total
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Until now, only Geoff or Flack had them to fit but 
