Member Since: 16 Sep 2018
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 14
Suspension nightmare (FIXED....for now!!)
Hi
I’ve Been having problems for a few months now with air suspension first compressor wasn’t switching off and was getting a fault then would lower to bumpstops, replaced air dryer beads and filter also cleaned inside valve block between compressor and air tank all was well for a while then it started again so I replaced the valve block everything great again! Then it started again and was raising slowly on front end so cleaned and put new seals in front valve block and was like a new car for a week then BONG! Fault again so checked connections under front passenger wheel arch liner seemed ok turned car on fault straight away front left hight sensor! So got a new one went to put it on and noticed connector corroded so new repair connector ordered and fitted all’s well? Nope!! faults again! ..... so only thing I’d not done was rear block so did that cleaned new seals ...same, then cleaned compressor and compressor valve block again At the same time as trying to find an annoying creaking that’s developed on rear end, but still getting faults amber and then goes to red and drops to bump stops and proceeds to bounce me out of the seat like I’m on some old tractor!
The codes I’ve got at the min are
C1 A36-01 exhaust valve
C1 A07-62 cross articulation
U2000-67 motor temperature
C112f-72 air spring valve
C1130-66 air spring air supply
Also had these appear
B1 B02-28/ permanent low frequency coil
B1 C57-14/ permanent unused relay drive
Also get some lost communication errors too
Any help to point me in the right direction very welcome as I’m stuck at the min and with several other bits I’ve got to do to it it’s all getting a bit much just seems to be one thing after another
Last edited by Bigmitch1980 on 26th Feb 2020 11:07 am. Edited 1 time in total
8th Feb 2020 11:39 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1786
Seems like you have done most things except look for leaks. It is time to get the soapy water out and spray around looking for bubbles. Start where the two pipes come out of the compressor as the housing is known to crack there. Check all connections around the valve blocks and make sure pipes are not crossed up.
9th Feb 2020 12:43 am
Bigmitch1980
Member Since: 16 Sep 2018
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 14
Hi globetrotter
I did give the compressor and valve block a quick spray when I was doing them other day and didn’t see anything, I will go over it all when I get chance this week
I already checked for the crack in compressor I forgot to mention but I’ve got the amk unit so the end casings different
Cheers
Lee
9th Feb 2020 7:15 am
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Is the car sitting at the correct ride level ? Just a thoughtMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
9th Feb 2020 11:33 am
Bigmitch1980
Member Since: 16 Sep 2018
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 14
Yeah it appears so although when I had hight sensor fault the other week drivers rear corner kept going high then would go into extended mode when you lower it but is fine now it’s had new sensor and harness on front
Left over night with fuse pulled and was slightly lower on front but we are talking 5-10mm if that
Front end takes ages to lift but then when I’ve cleaned any of the valves or compressor it seems to go up quick but then goes back to slow rise when I’ve driven and got the faults!
Been thinking of getting some flexible nylon tube and push fit connectors (in place of Voss connectors) and new valve block seal kit and compressor repair kit and redoing the whole lot! Has anybody done this? And if so any recommendations on parts/materials
Cheers
9th Feb 2020 12:07 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1786
check with "GStuart" as he has changed some fittings to brass ones
9th Feb 2020 10:10 pm
Bigmitch1980
Member Since: 16 Sep 2018
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 14
So after I replaced the compressor and valve seals and swapped Voss fittings for push-fit all round it seem to have fixed most of my faults but then another one appeared!!!
When I was doing the rear block I noticed that the electrical connector didn’t click on properly so when this fault appeared I went to check it and it had come off so. While it was running I when to put it on and you could feel it blowing it back off!!! So it was leaking out of the electrical connector!! Near come across this before so worth checking if your having faults as you don’t normally spray electrical connectors with soapy water when checking for air leaks!
I ordered a new part from bearmach and paid for Saturday delivery only for dhl to mess it up and send it on a Wild goose chase around the country till finally getting it on Wednesday! Only to put the part on and it had one of the small brass bungs missing! So had to make a good block out of the two faulty ones! Bearmach were brilliant in giving me a full refund for the part and postage
So all seems ok and is fixed....for now...
now onto the long list of other things I need to sort out on it!.............
26th Feb 2020 11:26 am
gearmuncher
Member Since: 30 Oct 2018
Location: Woodley
Posts: 143
So the new part you ordered was the rear valve block is that correct ?.
26th Feb 2020 1:50 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Globetrotter448 wrote:
check with "GStuart" as he has changed some fittings to brass ones
Sorry I missed this thread
26th Feb 2020 2:03 pm
Bigmitch1980
Member Since: 16 Sep 2018
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 14
gearmuncher wrote:
So the new part you ordered was the rear valve block is that correct ?.
Yes new rear valve block as it was leaking air out of the electrical connector
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