Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1210
All electrical mods in progress - continued…….
Hi all,
Thought I’d put together the work I’ve been doing over he last few weeks in between work, homeschooling and everything else on the auxiliary electrics upgrade I’m doing on my 2008 HSE. I’m only about half way through but you gotta start typing at some point this is my first “how I did that” post so please be gentle with the replies lol.
It started with just wanting to fit an led light bar but ended up as a full blown electrical party, the todo list grew to:
LED light bar - fitted
Auxiliary battery and split charger - now completed
Auxiliary electrics to the boot - now complete m)
Fixed battery charging point to front grill - now fitted
Additional lights at rear - fitted and working m)
Reversing spot light - planned
Roof working lights - planned
Anderson jump starter to front grill - planned subject to budget
So far I’ve fitted the auxiliary battery and pre wired over to the main but not connected anything up, as I want to guarantee working on non live cables until I’m done
I’ve then run a 100amp (16mm2) live across the engine bay and down out past the main battery to the back of the wheel arch and then followed the existing loom along the chassis to the passenger side cubby hole grommets and back into the car. Cable is secured and protected with split conduit for the full length. This could have been painful, but managed to do it in around an hour, using thin rods taped to the cable to thread the route before pulling / guiding the cable through, main pain was the split duct catching on every square edge. I used 6meters of pre terminated 16mm2 cable and it was a near perfect length, with slack at the back end to figure out where to fit the fuse board. I’m going to earth the fuse board off the existing earth point by the rear light cluster.
After struggling to work through the cubby door, I decided to take the rear trim panel of to give me some space, was easier than I expected, removing the rubber door seals on the boot and rear passenger door, disconnecting the lower tailgate wire, and in bolting the left rear passenger seatbelt left just some tugging to do to pull it away, followed by 10 minutes of “hunt the clip” as they fell off
Moving the trim panel meant I had space to work (sort of)
I’d already decided not to go down the route of using the cubby door as a switch board as many others have done, as an old telecoms engineer, I know what movement in wiring can do to weaken them and cause faults so I wanted the fuse board and sockets to be in a fixed position, so I’ve fitted a piece of 1/4 inch ply to the back of the cubby and plan to fit the fuse board and any connectors to there.
Running out of time for today, I measured up, measured again, and again, said a little prayer, and let rip with my drill at the trim panel to make the holes for the sockets.
With that I ran out of outside time today, with son coming home and dinner to be cooked, so, after the nipper went to bed, and SWMBO went upstairs to the office to study, I took over the lounge for some socket wiring, another handy accident of having taken the trim off the car
I’ve decided to fit the socket panel with 1xtwin usb socket, 1x12v standard socket, and a volt meter for the aux battery, along with a light switch panel to trim panel on the slight underside slope,
I’m actually using C-Line socket surrounds as I want to try and get something of a factory feel to the fit, they were a bit more expensive than the normal 4x4 sockets but look good I think. Switches are all 20amp rated as well. I’ve also removed the standard 12v socket going to the ignition live main battery and will replace that with a twin usb with voltage display so I have a view of the main level, usb is fine as anything with a heavy draw I’ll run from the auxiliary battery going forward.
So tonight as I said, I’ve wired them all up remembering to label the ends
and tidied everything up in the hope I have time tomorrow between work and son and house to get the trim back on, fuse board mounted, and switches / sockets connected, then it’ll be back to the bonnet to finish that end.
If you’re still awake at this point, thanks for reading 2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
Last edited by KevinD3 on 19th Jul 2023 7:33 pm. Edited 5 times in total
8th Mar 2021 10:14 pm
Down&Dirty
Member Since: 17 Aug 2012
Location: Somewhere out back
Posts: 1287
Good tidy job
Waiting for next instalment MY24 Defender 90 X-Dynamic HSE
MY18 Disco 5 HSE Santorini Black Now Gone.
8th Mar 2021 10:24 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
looking good!
let's see the info on the light bar install.......!formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
9th Mar 2021 11:35 am
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1210
Will do Ben, I’ve got to take the grill off at some point to fit the fixed charging lead behind it so will write the light bar up when I can take some photos
I had a bit of time this afternoon during a listen only conference call so logged in on the mobile and headed out to the car.
First job was to fit the fuse box to the back board I fitted yesterday, along with a connector box to connect the lights to the fly leads from the switches. Also took the opportunity to move my gps tracker over to the new aux power, means it’ll be live all the time now, not just until the internal battery runs out 10 minutes after ignition gets switched off.
Now the fuse box is fitted I moved to the front, fitted the split charging relay to the inside of the aux battery box, and installed the “reverse switch” this split charger comes with the ability to swap direction and feed some of the charge back to the main battery if it’s struggling. Fitted the switch to the battery box rather than the dashboard as in all likely hood, the bonnet will be up at that point anyway, keeps the dash less cluttered, and prevent accidental switching by an inquisitive 4 year olds fingers
Wired the 80amp resettable fuse to the cable heading to the boot on one side, would have fitted the other side and got my first power to the back if I hadn’t dropped the 5mm brass grommet screw that holds the cable in down the engine bay!! heard it hit the sump guard, so instead of getting power flowing today, I need to wait until I have a fair slot of time to drop the sump guard off the car for this screw. Meanwhile, can’t drive the car or I’ll loose it.
Oh well, thing things are meant to try us.2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
Last edited by KevinD3 on 11th Mar 2021 5:46 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Mar 2021 10:29 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
Thanks Kevin!formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
9th Mar 2021 10:50 pm
COBlue
Member Since: 22 May 2019
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1
Thanks so much for documenting this. I am days away from doing the exact same thing. I have rear a/c so less room for the fuse box but I like how you did it. Super clean install.
10th Mar 2021 4:20 am
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1210
Had some spare time today so went hunting for the screw I dropped through the engine to the sump cover. Managed to undo 7 bolts, but ended up having to grind the last one off, dropped the sump guard and there was my 5mm screw:) in a thick sludge of oil. Looks live I’ve got a slow oil leek from somewhere, lower engine sump cover and gearbox is covered in dirty oil, going to have to look into that next, not engine oil I think as no change in levels.
Anyway...screw-in hand I was able to finish connecting the 80amp trip fuse feeding the back and connect everything up under the bonnet and viola ! Had power to the rear
Bit of cable tidying to do but it’s all working. Checked the battery voltages, main was 2v lower than aux (interior lights, doors etc while I was working) switched my new button and the main recovered the 2v straight from the aux
While I had the bonnet up, I finished off the fixed charging lead for the main, fitted the bracket and socket behind the grill
Can now plug my charger in direct, also have a usb, 12v socket and a long fly lead so can use it as a small power output on the front for air pump, phone charging (picnic time) and other stuff
Hopefully the last cable I have on order arrives tomorrow morning so will finish the job and fit everything back in the boot...looking forward to it then it’ll be on to finding this oil leak :s2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
11th Mar 2021 5:24 pm
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1210
Oh, I forgot, for you Ben,
I fitted a 20inch light bar in the oil cooler air intake (still air flow through)
Took the cable up to the main battery, fitting the relay there as well.
Took the feed for the switch from the passenger side high beam by teeing in behind the light then ran the wires across the bulkhead (now in same trunking as split charger cable) and in through the spare grommet behind the aux battery
then thread it it up through the dash and fitted an original fog light switch kit to keep an original feel in the car
I’m already thinking about fitting a couple of spots behind the grill but think I need to sort the oil first.2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
11th Mar 2021 5:40 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
Thanks Kevin!
Which light bar did you go for? Did it come with a loom?
Is it effective from that height?
formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
11th Mar 2021 10:15 pm
Trucks
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: south newton
Posts: 375
Hi
Looks all good I am going to start this as soon as I get my t max kit delivered.
Can I ask where i can get the front charging plug from and information as how to install it,also will, that plug be compatible with the the ctek plug
Thanks
Petepete truckle
11th Mar 2021 10:17 pm
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1210
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
12th Mar 2021 1:01 am
Trucks
Member Since: 30 Nov 2019
Location: south newton
Posts: 375
Thanks
Just ordered the ctek comfort connector going to add it just behind the grill with just about enough poking out to plug in.
I did see someone on here fit a connector to the offside wing looked very professionally done but for the life of me I can't find it.
Haven't got good access to leave the power leads to the car will still have to run out the old extension lead but will save opening the bonnet.
Got a double USB connector where the Ash tray sits along with 12 volt outlet and roof light bar switch will i will add pictures when the weather permits.
I fitted a straight light bar on the roof ,not to sure if I like it ,most do,I did look at the grill but I wanted something I could move up and down if required.
Well good luck,don't burn the car down with all them wires being connected and be safe
Petepete truckle
12th Mar 2021 9:03 am
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
I’ve decided to install two x 1” light bars for a slightly more subtle look.
Can I still use the same loom you linked to?
For running them both together?formerly Disco3Ben
2016 D4, Santorini Black
2007 D3, Black - sold
12th Mar 2021 7:52 pm
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1210
Probably, you’d have to tee in for the 2nd, wowled (all one word) do some good twin harness, search them on eBay, built to take 2 lights,2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
this is my first “how I did that” post so please be gentle with the replies lol.
