Member Since: 09 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 269
Engine Undershield Bolts
Hi
Silly question.
Had to remove the engine undershield from the dear D3 on Sunday - dropped a spanner - and noticed that two of the bolts were missing - the ones to the rear of the front cross member. First time I have had to remove this so not noticed before. Also noticed that the two front bolts were fixed to nylok nuts - bolts had 13mm heads, nuts were 15mm. Sent an alarm bell ringing.
Looking at t’internet, it looks as if the bolts should go through a captive spring nut - but are these fixed to the cross member and the bolt put in from below (which seems logical) or, if you look at the Advanced Factors webpage diagram for the under shield, should the captive nuts be fixed to the under shield and the bolts put in from above?
Finally - does no one use grease any more on nuts and bolts? Surely something so exposed to road muck should be greased?
Thanks in advance
AndrewD3 - 2008.5MY HSE, Stornaway Grey, RSE etc - all the toys
Grabber AT3s, Smoked Sweeping Side Repeaters
D4 Steering Wheel with BBS boards
IID BT Tool - happy to help with fault codes
22nd Sep 2020 10:00 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4405
Yes, for some unknown reason Land Rover used some special shakeproof washers (Nordlock or similar (I imagine the Nordlock rep went into LR one day and gave away a huge sample of expensive washers!)) on the undertray.
Yes, Copper Slip or similar, will make your life much easier next time you have to take the undertray off.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
22nd Sep 2020 10:27 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10375
captive spring nut, fixed to the cross member and the bolt put in from below
22nd Sep 2020 12:11 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20733
Member Since: 09 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 269
Thanks all
Dunc - not sure the Nut and Bolt should be different sizes (spanner not threads)?D3 - 2008.5MY HSE, Stornaway Grey, RSE etc - all the toys
Grabber AT3s, Smoked Sweeping Side Repeaters
D4 Steering Wheel with BBS boards
IID BT Tool - happy to help with fault codes
22nd Sep 2020 12:42 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4405
Lots of the nut/bolt combinations on the Disco are odd spanners. The suspension has a lot of 18/21 nut/bolt pairs!Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
22nd Sep 2020 1:00 pm
AndyViking
Member Since: 09 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 269
Now thats just plain bloody stupid. No wonder garages hate the things!D3 - 2008.5MY HSE, Stornaway Grey, RSE etc - all the toys
Grabber AT3s, Smoked Sweeping Side Repeaters
D4 Steering Wheel with BBS boards
IID BT Tool - happy to help with fault codes
22nd Sep 2020 3:36 pm
Ruper
Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: Virginia
Posts: 318
Is it stupid?
Is it stupid? I mean if you only had one set of wrenches, then you would be thanking them right?
Actually I agree it seems stupid.
I had to replace some, and of coarse the correct off the shelf at the auto parts store metric bolts were a different head size (15mm) vice the original 13 mm, so now I have to find both sockets when I go under.
And there is always one that I can't get in the hole even if I do leave all the other bolts loose to be able to nudge the plate around.
I used anti seize, the silver stuff that some how spreads all over the vehicle, your ear lobes, pants, wrenches, etc. when you only use a drop. OI think is multiplies itself and spreads. Should call it Rabbit Juice.2005 Land Rover D3, 4.4L V8, Maya Gold Metallic
1966 Scout 800, 196 cu.in.
1975 Scout II, 392 cu.in.
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