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Meridian 380w Sub & Amp Q

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Timbo1975

Member Since: 25 Nov 2019
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 44

2015 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial Auto Causeway Grey

Meridian 380w Sub & Amp Q

I have the above system in a 2015 D4 and the sub output is weedy / buzzy at best - and yep, I've had the sub out checked it and dynomatt'ed the lower tailgate!

Does anyone know the output wattage of the sub channel on the factory amp?

Either I use a decent cub box powered from the existing amp (probs marginal) or tap into the line level feeds to the amp and use a decent sub + separate amp.

Ideally a pin out and amp spec would be good!

Thanks in advance

10th Aug 2020 2:06 pm

Timbo1975

Member Since: 25 Nov 2019
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 44

bump

wiring diagram would also be super handy !

14th Aug 2020 10:19 am

MintyHit

Member Since: 25 Jul 2017
Location: Bradford on Avon
Posts: 234

2005 Discovery 3 4.4 V8 HSE Auto Java Black

I did this - I ran the outputs for the sub from the factory amp into a high-range input on a small-ish 300w amp under my passenger seat... I upped the gain a bit and bingo, sounds pretty good.

Here is the wiring:

Click image to enlarge

Don't expect thumping bass from the factory sub but it is quite musical and adds quite a bit IMO.

14th Aug 2020 10:40 am

MintyHit

Member Since: 25 Jul 2017
Location: Bradford on Avon
Posts: 234

... the factory sub is duel coil so can be wired to match the output of your amp... I wired for 4 ohms 2+2 in series.

14th Aug 2020 10:45 am

Timbo1975

Member Since: 25 Nov 2019
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 44

Thanks hugely for that - you don't have the input connections (from the headunit) image or link by any chance??

Since I'd prefer to tap into that rather than have any factory amp EQ applied to the signal which I expect it will have..

14th Aug 2020 10:49 am

Timbo1975

Member Since: 25 Nov 2019
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 44

MintyHit wrote:
... the factory sub is duel coil so can be wired to match the output of your amp... I wired for 4 ohms 2+2 in series.

There are dual 2 ohm voice coil subs on the market if I was going to couple the factory amp to one, but I suspect a) it wont really have enough output to do justice to a decent sub and b) the internal EQ wont be ideal for a proper sub.

So I'd rather get a clean line level signal from the headunit and go direct to a sub & amp with that leaving the factory sub disconnected.

14th Aug 2020 10:52 am

MintyHit

Member Since: 25 Jul 2017
Location: Bradford on Avon
Posts: 234

I think it would be hard to intercept the signal between the head-unit and the amplifier as it uses the MOST (Media Oriented Systems Transport) High Speed BUS... it is a digital signal that needs decoding.

I am not sure I'd worry too much about the factory EQ for the SW channels - I would have though it would a LFE output. You are probably right about the factory sub not being able to drive an aftermarket sub effectively.

From experience AMP SW outputs's into High Level Input on a stand alone amp works really well and I am quite fussy with sound.

17th Aug 2020 3:31 pm

Timbo1975

Member Since: 25 Nov 2019
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 44

To update this thread;

Added a 10" Pioneer sub in a 20l custom box behind the NS rear seat ( had profile of box designed to match the angle of seat) and 350w class D amp under the false boot floor- power from the rear fuse box.

Disconnected the factory Sub outputs at the amp behind the O/S boot panel and used a balanced speaker to RCA level convertor here to feed the new amp with a clean line signal.

Alittle tweaking of the Amp controls + Bass & Sub sliders, what a difference! Clean punchy bottom end with non of the limp fuzz n muddiness of the tailgate sub any more. Taking some bass load away from the door speakers enables them to play with much more clarity; the soundstage has become more alive.

Definitely worth doing if you don't mind loosing a corner of the load space and appreciate good sound. 2015 SDV6 Commercial

4th Feb 2021 6:28 pm

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