Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Derby de2
Posts: 141
Fault code 1/1 C1A07-62(AF) after suspension arm change
Hi helped a friend change all suspension arms on 57 plate SE D3, we placed D3 on axle stands under chassis.
we removed fuse 26 and released suspension pressure at valve block on osf wheel arch and nsr chassis rail by undoing connections till we could hear air leaking out.
Changed all suspension arms upper and lower, front and rear with new bolts.
tightened up fittings on valve blocks, then replaced fuse 26, started engine for 5 min then removed axle stands the rear suspension went into off road height whereas front suspension remain at standard height,
cycled suspension up and down three times whilst moving D3 forward and backwards, suspension eventually settled to normal height.
took out for road test after 5 minutes driving amber suspension light turned on followed by the dreaded bong, then amber light turned red and suspension deflated down onto bump stops.
Borrowed IId tool not registered to car fault code flashed up
cross articulation 1/1 C1A07-62(AF)
lost communication with ride level 1/1 U0132-87(2B)
Used the tool to clear the code, D3 went back to normal height, removed fuse 26 returned home with amber and red light flashing and bong going off every couple of minutes
Where do I need to look as we never disconnected any wiring only undid the unions a little bit to drain the air
Help as always apprciated
Ron
26th Apr 2021 11:32 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi
May i ask please did u get 4 x wheel alignment done after replacing the arms
Also when did u tighten the arm bolts up plse , ie, was the landy on the ground or arms just hanging down
Plus credit to u as know they can be right to change
26th Apr 2021 11:55 am
bronjen
Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Derby de2
Posts: 141
Hi had 4 wheel alignment done they congratulated me for transferring markings of old bolts onto new ones was only a few degrees out and did put weight on suspension before finally tightening up the bolts and yes had to cut the rear uppers off as no way could I undo the bolts to chassis
26th Apr 2021 3:06 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi
Awesome , didn’t wish to come across trying to teach u how to suck eggs
Did they use the hunter 4 x wheel alignment system plse
Just that when I done mine I found out that indeed before tighten up the bolts up and mine was on axle stands I needed to jack the rear wishbones up and measure from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch liner and get it to 485mm before finally tightening the bolts
Ur so right ref those rear bolts and having to cut them off, took me ages with a recip saw
Are all ur height sensors back on ok, wires and connectors also not pinched/ cut through etc
Hats off to u and also done something similar with a spirit level to get them near enough vertical and wasn’t far out when it was aligned
Have u checked the heights all round in normal ride height from the centre of the wheel to the bottom of the wheel arch liner plse to see what they are , 465 front - 485mm rear
Expect it’s something daft like a wire/ connector that’s just been moved whilst u done the work , dirty contacts , easy to check ur height sensors using a multimeter / iid
I didn’t have to do a height calibration on mine but did do it anyway , but at least ur know after checking the heights if there out by a lot
So personally would recheck all the connectors , etc
Do u still have access to the iid as can use live data to see if the height sensors are ok , plus know if the iid isn’t registered to ur vehicle it can’t do the calibration , unless u pay I think it’s £60.00 to have it added
Apologises I’m waffling as per usual, lol
So
1) check all ur height sensors arms are reattached correctly
2) height sensor wiring / connectors
3) check height sensor loom with either a multimeter or iid
4) check heights all round in normal ride height , centre of wheel - bottom of wheel arch
Hope that helps a little
26th Apr 2021 3:31 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4695
Faulty / height sensor, or damaged sensor arm (floppy)
Or incorrectly refitted! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
26th Apr 2021 5:34 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi Den
Must admit when I done my upper arms I thought the height sensor rods were going to snap , but luckily enough they didn’t
hope I never have to remove the screws that hold the height sensors to the chassis as they look right sods to get out, snapping by even glancing at them
Then when I first lowered it to the ground I forgot to put one of the rods back on, suspension had a right tantrum and the rear off side connector pins were all dirty
26th Apr 2021 6:12 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4695
Hi Gary,
When they've been on there for many years they don't take kindly to being pushed around.
Sometimes the eyes on the sensor rods can become weak over time. (floppy) Or, sometimes the arm itself becomes stiff in the body of the sensor, which has the effect of weakening the rubber eyes on the rods. It's a new sensor if that happens.
Either way you end up with restricted movement of the rods and or the sensor, which causes the cross articulation dtc.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
26th Apr 2021 7:28 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13672
Hi den
That’s it, u explain better than myself as was trying to find the words, indeed the rubber eyelet ends was the bit I was concerned about pushing it back onto the new wishbone
Talking of rods at one time did think about fitting the longer ones to give more clearance, that was until I saw the price
26th Apr 2021 8:15 pm
bronjen
Member Since: 31 Mar 2015
Location: Derby de2
Posts: 141
I didn't check wheel heights from the centre of wheel to top of wheel well, will check recheck sensor rods and check all wires around the articulation valve, then I will call a certain Mr Bodsey to re scan to see if that cures it
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