Getting ready to wire up my new Hella 4000's that are mounted to the ARB front bumper. Does anyone have a photo of which wires to tap into? Also, any tricks for accessing the passenger side (USA - right front) wires? Looks really tight to get into and I have big hands?? I do plan to install the switch in the dash. I have an unused panel that looks like it can be accessed next to the radio. Any issues with snaking the wires up to this spot? Thanks Guys2006 D3 Tonga Green
275/65/18 GY DuraTracs - ARB w/ EP9.0 - Sasquatch Rods
23rd Mar 2008 2:43 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
You would be better removing the headlight its self instead of trying to get behind it.
Very simple ...just realease the 2 locking bars on each headlight ..oh and remove the grill first.G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
23rd Mar 2008 2:50 pm
wiggs
Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372
Main beam connections
R/H side headlamp Blue wire with Black tracer pin number 10
L/H side headlamp Blue wire with Gray tracer pin number 10
Check them first with a multimeter
This is the wiring for the LR3 ..G4 Gone ...but not forgotten
Thanks WIGGS. Unfortunately, I have the ARB with the Bull Bars. The lamps are pretty much stuck unless I take the bumper off?? 2006 D3 Tonga Green
275/65/18 GY DuraTracs - ARB w/ EP9.0 - Sasquatch Rods
23rd Mar 2008 6:16 pm
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
Location: Romiley
Posts: 13710
If you can get the grill out you can get the headlamps out - it is described in the manual as THE way to chage bulbs - I would be very surprised if your ARB bars would stop you doing this Steve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
Hi I have the ARB bar as well and was in fact quite surprised that they have not made provision in the bar design to remover the headlight in the normal fashion.
Hope the wiring goes well, this is a pickup for the relay?
You could chase back to the fuse box for a relay pickup and keep the wiring clean in the engine bay, patience job though.
Thanks for the replies. After staring under the bonnet all day Sunday, I think I'm leaning towards wiring these "hot" and not tapping into the harness. I have the Hella harness which includes the relay, fuse block and switch. What do I need to know in addition to extra switches or fuses required? I would also like to sacrifice the 12v outlet next to the ashtray for the switch location. Can I use the 12v power wired already to the outlet? Sorry for the beginner type questions. I just hate electrical work. 2006 D3 Tonga Green
275/65/18 GY DuraTracs - ARB w/ EP9.0 - Sasquatch Rods
You need a good negative feed to the relay (and lights), take this from one of the many -VE connection bolts. Take a feed of the Blue&Black (Pin 10) wire on the RH, route this via a Dash switch, to the "switch/condition" terminal of your relay. Then take a positive feed of the Battery terminal with an in-line fuse to the "feed" terminal on the relay. From the relay's "load" terminal take you positive feed to the lamps.
Click image to enlarge
LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
27th Mar 2008 1:10 pm
Khauff
Member Since: 05 Apr 2008
Location: Scotland
Posts: 236
Hey guys now let me get this straight!!
When i wired my current discos lights i only took the one postive feed from the right hand side (light). which was then linked to the relay so when i flash my spot lights and full beam go on.....
(I have no internal rocker switch within the car as to many wires messy job)
I have had no problems in doing this..
With the posts above, do you have to take both postive feeds i.e left light + right light postive feed to the relay so it draws equal current ??
No you on't take a feed of the two headlights, and the dash rocker switch is optional - although that depends on your Driving/Spot lamps being Street Legal, if there are not street legal then you must have a separate switch to activate them and not just tie them in with the normal highbeam.LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
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