Member Since: 16 Feb 2013
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 384
Sticky TSOV? Inlet manifold split? Connected?
Hi
Just reflecting on the last couple of issue I have had. I had a split inlet manifold and since getting it back often felt the car was a bit flat. My fuel economy seemed down as well so ever since I’ve been driving like Miss Daisy.
Climbing a hill though recently and gave my car a pretty hard push to overtake, causing it to drop down a gear (or two). It then dropped into restricted performance and I got the following codes
P00BF-00 (2F) Mass or volume air flow B circuit range/performance - Air flow too high
- Test Failed
- Test Failed This Monitoring Cycle
- Confirmed
- Test Failed Since Last Clear
P004B-77 (27) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit range/performance - Mechanical failure - commanded position is not reachable
- Test Failed
- Test Failed This Monitoring Cycle
- Pending
- Test Failed Since Last Clear
Long story short, I lubricated the TSOV and all was well again. And performance and fuel economy both much improved
But looking back, I’m now just wondering if sticky TSOV’s, and the apparent resulting high inlet air flow pressure, could be behind manifold’s splitting/popping/rupturing?
Anyone cleverer than me have a view?Corris Grey SDV6 D4 2015 HSE
Adriatic Blue TDV6 D3 2004 SE (Gone)
Grey Freelander 1 TD4 SE 2001 (Gone)
24th Aug 2023 6:24 pm
mjt989
Member Since: 06 Oct 2023
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 5
Hi,
Thanks for your post, I think my LR4 has the same issue, I'd just cleaned my MAF sensors and was taking it for a test drive, accelerating hard up an A road with an incline, I reached about 80mph and got restricted performance, the OBD showed:
P00BF-00
P004B-77 Turbocharger boost control solenoid B - circuit range/performance
P259B-71 Turbocharger boost control position sensor B performance - stuck high
I'd like to try lubricating the TSOV as you did but I'm unsure where it is (this is my first LR4 ), where can I locate the TSOV?
Many thanks
Mike
21st Oct 2023 7:26 am
Kummu24
Member Since: 16 Feb 2013
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 384
With your car in raised height mode, turn the steering wheel fully to the right. Leave a door or tailgate open so it won’t lower, You don’t need the wheels off the ground and are barely under the car to do this but take any other precautions you can to safeguard against unexpected lowering (Jack, axle stands, blocks etc)
Look inside the wheelarch, you will see a small panel with 4 clips at the lower front, just on the chassis. Remove this to get access to the TSOV
With thanks to GVW for his photo, the valve is located by the red arrow, The linkage is behind/above the valve as you see it but a lubricant can with a straw will enable you to lubricate it and you can use a long screwdriver to work the linkage back and forth to work lubricant in.
Click image to enlarge
Use the forum search function, and the term TSOV and you’ll find a wealth of posts sharing knowledge, issues and experiences on this issueCorris Grey SDV6 D4 2015 HSE
Adriatic Blue TDV6 D3 2004 SE (Gone)
Grey Freelander 1 TD4 SE 2001 (Gone)
21st Oct 2023 12:39 pm
Kummu24
Member Since: 16 Feb 2013
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 384
I should say that - as many others have pointed out - squirting lubricant around it while on the car rarely results in a long term fix and mine has stuck again, and then been freed gain since my original post. To fix properly I think you need to remove the valve and properly free it on a bench. Or replace.
It doesn’t seem a major job and I’ll do this soon when I get a bit of free time, but for me it’s only really happening under really heavy acceleration - or perhaps more accurately, at the point I throttle back. So it can be driven normally for now, although I’m not sure if this is healthy for the inlet system - hence my original enquiry as to possible link with splitting hoses / manifolds.Corris Grey SDV6 D4 2015 HSE
Adriatic Blue TDV6 D3 2004 SE (Gone)
Grey Freelander 1 TD4 SE 2001 (Gone)
Its not a big job dont disconnect the small pipe at the valve, disconnect it from the top side and pull it off with the valve. The large pipe can sometimes need a good tug to remove it, beware there will be oil in it so have something to catch it.
Flack
21st Oct 2023 3:08 pm
mjt989
Member Since: 06 Oct 2023
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 5
Brilliant thanks guys, I'll have a play and report back
23rd Oct 2023 4:35 pm
Kummu24
Member Since: 16 Feb 2013
Location: Ayrshire
Posts: 384
MJT989
Anything to report?
(Also, thanks Flack for your ever valuable inputs!)
I still haven’t found time to get mine off but have mar a plan with a friend to get it n a ramp next week.
I have managed to vac test the actuator valve and it does operate the actuator linkage. Wondering if my issues may be vac pipe related upstream but really hard to track these fully. Certainly can’t see any pipe damage.
My original code was P004B-77 (27) Turbo/supercharger boost control solenoid B - circuit range/performance - Mechanical failure - commanded position is not reachable
Can anyone confirm the location of solenoid B?
Thanks in advance for any inputs Corris Grey SDV6 D4 2015 HSE
Adriatic Blue TDV6 D3 2004 SE (Gone)
Grey Freelander 1 TD4 SE 2001 (Gone)
4th Nov 2023 5:13 pm
mjt989
Member Since: 06 Oct 2023
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 5
Hi guys,
Reporting back:
I managed to get around to doing this the other day, interestingly we had a cold spell and temperatures were reaching -3C and the valve starting playing up a lot more, for instance taking it to 70mph (without harsh acceleration) triggered RP. Anyhow I managed to get some WD40 around the linkage that enters at the top of the valve, in the end I jacked up the car and put my head in the wheel arch and managed to get my fingers around the linkage to get the WD40 around it (probs better to do it Kummus way though!), I then took it for a few test runs, the first run I triggered RP after giving it some welly up a gentle incline, I turned the car off and restarted after a few mins and RP was gone, I then did 3 more test runs giving it some serious throttle and couldn't trigger RP or any DTCs, I reckon the first test run helped to work in the WD40, I haven't had any issues since and we've done a few hundred miles on a trip to Europe.
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