Member Since: 26 Dec 2012
Location: Hereford
Posts: 24
Rear door won’t open
Could really do with some help here ladies and gents. I’ve got a problem with my 2005 RRSport. I believe my rear door, passenger side has a faulty actuator. I have a replacement but I cannot get the door open to fit it. I’ve looked through the forum and have found very useful guides, but nothing on getting the locked door open if it won’t budge. I’ve tried many combinations of unlock button on the dash, the remote, engine running or not, pulling all levers inside and out but no luck. I’ve resorted to drilling holes in the door to try and pop the lock, but no joy. Basically, I can manually manipulate both levers on the mechanism and from what I can gather this should release the lock? My last resort will be to take a dremmel, cut a large hole in the door (from inside) and try to attack the lock with a drill. All seems a bit drastic, anyone got any better ideas?
View from inside the door skin
23rd Aug 2019 7:02 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1818
You have checked that no fuses are blown and that the drivers door switch is not in child lock mode
25th Aug 2019 8:28 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10678
things to try
Sit in the back with the key.
bang the motor / door and press unlock on key.
hold motor to see if it's trying.
25th Aug 2019 9:43 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1818
What happens when you pull the cable in the white cable as this is a mechanical connection
25th Aug 2019 11:59 pm
Tony666
Member Since: 26 Dec 2012
Location: Hereford
Posts: 24
Activating the release levers (mechanically) on the lock mechanism does not release the lock. I'm thinking that the door might be 'superlocked' meaning both mechanical levers are disconnected internally. I believe all of the locks 'superlock' when you lock with the key fob, meaning they can't be opened from inside or out (preventing theft). The problem is, if the actuator develops a fault whilst in this state I can't see how you'd get it open, other than brute force. I could try and apply 12v directly to the superlock motor to see if that helps release it, anyone know which wires i'd need to apply to?
6th Sep 2019 8:35 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14129
Hi
Plus 1 what the other members have mentioned
Alas Think many have experienced this but always been able to unlock it
Happened to my back door last year and managed to get it open , by locking and unlocking using the dashboard switch and pulling the handle outside handle at the same time
Firstly when u press the dashboard switch can u hear anything happening inside the doors actuator plse
As mentioned , did u turn the childlock screw on at the door itself
I used these window suckers which I found helpful holding the glass up
Have u got a multimeter plse
Last edited by gstuart on 6th Sep 2019 9:13 pm. Edited 1 time in total
6th Sep 2019 9:02 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14129
Full wiring diagrams , press download after opening link
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14129
Just found this , should work on any door and just an idea to see if it helps
DRIVERS DOOR ACTUATOR REPLACEMENT WHEN DOOR LOCKED SHUT
My drivers door latch failed a couple of weeks ago and nothing I could do, including all the tweaks suggested on this site, would persuade the door to open.
To change the door lock actuator requires the door to be open so it is necessary to adopt a determined approach to the problem.
To start with the drivers seat has to come out and whilst it is awkward and very heavy it is not a real problem.
The door card has to be removed and having unclipped the clip fastenings and electrical connectors it would seem impossible to remove the card without destroying it. Not so. The problem is the large speaker and this speaker MUST be removed. Three of the screws holding the speaker are very difficult to get at, the fourth is b….y impossible. However needs must. At this stage in the game the window can be lowered and you are working standing outside the car. To give me a fraction more room I pulled off the dashboard heater outlet and the steering column undertrim and found that I could actually get my fingers onto the head of the fourth phillips screw at the bottom left of the speaker. I then fabricated what I would term a thumb screw with a phillips bit in a ¼ drive socket ( see photo 1).
With a fair degree of patience and much squeezing of my hand and fingers below the bottom of the speaker I was able to loosen the screw and remove it. The removal of the speaker is still very tight and requires a considered degree of effort to ease the door card away from the speaker . Speaker out, door card almost falls off. (ONE NIL UP!!)
The removal, or moving to one side, of the window regulator is more than adequately covered in this brilliant forum. The only downside is that with the door closed it is very awkward to get your arm into the door void to release the window clips. It is even more difficult to get your arm out!!!
The problem now is to manipulate the door lock actuator to open the door. In their infinite wisdom LR did NOT provide any last resort method of unlocking the door. However, having already purchased a new lock and mindful of the posting of VPGREY I investigated the brand new lock mechanism and identified two levers that could open the door.
The first is the white plastic lever shown in photo 2 which is between the actuator and the door inner skin. It is possible to move this lever, with a pair of thin nose pliers with a 90 degree end, and twist the lever upwards ( in the direction shown by the red arrow in photo 2), operating the internal door release cable may then open the door. In my car this lever did not open the door.
The second lever is accessed by removal of the torx screw (see photo 3) and small plastic cover which reveals a small lever, in my case the Magic lever, that may open the door. It is very beneficial to explore the new actuator and by locking the latch mechanism ( the bits that clamp to the door pillar) and by moving either the white plastic lever on one side of the actuator, or pressing the magic lever so as to witness how they unlock the door ( See photo 5 with the position of the magic lever and the precise point that needs to be pushed marked with a red arrow.)
Getting access to the magic lever with the actuator on the car is not easy, the actuator is only visible using a mirror and the magic lever is totally invisible . You have to gain access to the magic lever by using a pair of long nosed pliers with a 90 degree end or a suitably fabricated bent rod (1/4 diameter). ( see photo 4)
You will have to position the pliers by feel but lots of practice on the new lock will identify where you have to push. The route in is between the outer door skin and the actuator, near the top. After a lot of poking you will feel something move and operating the interior door latch cable results in the door swinging open ( absolute MAGIC).( TWO NIL UP)
I personally removed the actuator with the door handle which was straightforward although you will almost certainly break the tabs off the small part of the external door handle.
Replacing the actuator on a locked door is no fun and I hope that not many owners suffer this problem . It is however sortable with a bit of effort, gymnastics and patience
6th Sep 2019 9:25 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14129
Lastly
can u remember turning the childlock screw on that door which will of course make the inside cable useless in trying to open the door , outside handle only , so might with aid have someone press the dashboard unlock button and pulling the outside handle at the same time doing it lock / unlock and so on
Don’t forget the switch time out, after repeated pressing of the button if will stop working , give it 5-10 seconds and start again
Can u hear anything at the door actuator when u press the button on the dashboard
Also is the childlock switch off at the drivers door
Plse let us all know how u get on
6th Sep 2019 9:33 pm
Tony666
Member Since: 26 Dec 2012
Location: Hereford
Posts: 24
Sorted!
Big thanks to all who posted and helped me out with this one. Hope this might help others in the future. Basically, I think I was on the right track with the 'Superlock' idea. After digging in a bit more it seems that the car can be configured to 'Superlock', which means neither internal nor external handles will open the door. This is to prevent someone smashing the window then opening from the inside. Additionally the dash unlock button will not open the car when 'Superlocked'. It seems that the function is standard with one press of the lock button on the remote with UK spec cars, though could be programmed differently. If you sit in your car and lock it with the remote, you'll find you cannot open any doors if Superlocked. So, the only way to open the car was with the remote, so I now stopped trying the dash button and focused on the remote. I then gave the actuator a few taps with a block of wood and a hammer hoping this would free things up if they were jammed. Next I got the Mrs to unlock with the remote whilst I activated the external door handle lever, and to my delight the door opened! Happy Days! I'm going to have a look when I get time but I believe inside the actuator are two motors and several gears. One of the motors is for the Superlock. I think I had a problem with this or the gearing. If this hadn't opened, I was going to have a pop at the lever in Photo 5 of Stuarts post, not sure if this would have opened it though. Incidentally, the child lock was on (couldn't remember) so the internal handle would never have worked.
16th Sep 2019 9:14 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14129
Hi
That’s great news u finally got it open, bet u felt like jumping up and down with joy when the door came open
Indeed has the two motors
Very interesting ref the remote and superlock , learn something every day
Wondered that if u had it on child lock
At the end of the day chuffed u got the door open
Click image to enlarge
17th Sep 2019 1:26 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14129
Pete K wrote:
things to try
Sit in the back with the key.
bang the motor / door and press unlock on key.
hold motor to see if it's trying.
Looks like ur trick worked a treat for the op
17th Sep 2019 1:34 am
Tony666
Member Since: 26 Dec 2012
Location: Hereford
Posts: 24
Indeed it did, thanks Pete
17th Sep 2019 7:07 pm
niquelarondel
Member Since: 03 May 2021
Location: Genève
Posts: 36
Hello gents, LHD V8 D3 here
sorry do dig this topic up but better to follow up on that matter that helped me rather than openning a new thread.
SO long story short, had my door f**king up, when using the key to lock the car, the rear left passenger door woulnd't lock. I had to open manually the door and lock the door using the inside knob then shut the door close and it would be locked.
I want to address two thing here, first I managed to open my door using the tuto described previously, long nose plier is a thing but I found more handy and less bulky to use a bent iron rod. I would say use anything with a 45° bend and that would resist the force you apply on. Second, I manage to find a procedure to avoid using this method anymore.
In my case I could clearly hear the door mechanism beeing activated in the door. I've checked the fuses and nothing blown therefore I concluded that the superlock motor was blocking the door beeing openned from the inside. Despite my effort to try to open with the key nothing worked. The door would not open from ouside and from inside.
Note the position of that plasic slider here, this is the locked position that will provide you to open the door from the inside and from the ouside.
Click image to enlarge
You want that slider to be positionned like that instead :
Click image to enlarge
Notice that you can't see this sliders if your door is jammed, this is me opening the door mechanism once removed from the door.
So in order to be able to open your door if it is jammed, you have to bring a 9V or 12v battery and plug it to the 5th and 6th terminal from the door mechanism. These terminals are directly connected to the superlock motor. In order to activate the motor first remove the door pannel from the inside (7 screws). You don't even have to remove the window motor plate and all the speaker etc..., directly remove the plug cable black rubber plug and unplug the plug (I know that's a lot of plug words). If you are delicate and precise enough you won't need to remove the window motor plate. If you need more place then remove it it only takes 2min. Once the plug is removed take you PLUS and MINUS from your battery and plug is like so :
Click image to enlarge
from the top of the door, Black to the 5th and red to the 6th. That will make the motor wind the plastic slider to the unlock position. BAM magic, you are now able to open your door from the ouside and inside.
Hope that saves some of you with big phat forearms to deep dive into the door and struggle.
This brings me to my other problem --> I managed to unlock my door then totally disassemble the door mechanism, grease it like new, test it etc... everything works fine until... I close my door lock it with the key and the door is not locking. I assume the motor from the conventionning locking (the big one) is toasted. I ordered a new one and am currently waiting for the delivery. BUT, now that I locked my door manually to lock the door, I can't open it again ... like something in the car is sending the superlock motor the information to LOCK dead the door. There is something locking the superlock motor and avoiding me to open the door.
My questions for you kind folks are :
- Is there a relay box or something dedicted to the functionning of the door lock situated near the door that need changing or attention ? (already checked ALL the fuses related to door operations and they are all good)
- Is the fact that the main locking motor is dead the car now tells the superlock motor to shut down the door as a matter of safety ?
My guess for now is :
- There is something telling the car to send current to the superlock motor so that it locks the door. I secretly hope that the fact my main door mechanism motor is dead is the reason this brilliant mind called D3 V8 choose to superlock the door for my safety and that me changing the motor soon will address the problem.
I must say I understand pretty much everything mechanical but the electronic shenanigans of this locking system is complicated to me. Anything from you guys, any help is more that welcome.
I will keep you posted once I unlock my door again to change the motors inside the door lock. I hope this will cure the problem.
TBC
24th Feb 2024 7:39 pm
fulloc
Member Since: 05 Nov 2021
Location: Alexandria
Posts: 2
Acknowledging that this post is old but if anyone is in the same situation it's always nice to get some extra info as this was the most useful source online.
My LHR door had a failed superlock, child lock on too.
Step one I got the door trim off, anyone saying you can't do this without removing the seat needs their head checked, it's two very easy to access screws at the bottom of the trim and 4 behind the handle. Standard screwdriver does the trick.
Then the fun part.
Pulled the speaker out for a bit of access, still too far to reach the latch.
Tried applying power to terminals 5 and 6 as above using my 12v motorcycle battery. No good. Assume my superlock motor has failed.
Got a suction cup and released the regulator bolts but left in the door.
Reviewed the above photos and tried to take off the small plastic cover mentioned to get to the white lever/superlock cog. Easy enough to remove the screw, not mentioned is the metal plate riveted over it. Removed that none to politely.
Crafted a little tool, referencing my new latch and plugging the latch into my harness to see what needed doing when the key was pressed.
No amount of switching the superlock back and forth manually - painfully - made any difference.
No combination of pulling handles, pressing key or dash button, swearing or otherwise gave me any assistance.
I eventually lost it, grabbed my favourite 10" pry bar, snapped the entire plastic portion of the actuator off the metal latch and was able to simply lift up on the metal lever with my finger that the exterior handle cable hooks to.
Door open.
The reason I have posted all this is to save another poor from wasting 2+ hrs of a Saturday trying to be clever, when it took me 30 seconds to snap the actuator and get the door open, then maybe 10 mins to replace the latch according to various YouTube videos.
Don't mess about, buy a new latch and destroy the b@stard.
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from wasting 2+ hrs of a Saturday trying to be clever, when it took me 30 seconds to snap the actuator and get the door open, then maybe 10 mins to replace the latch according to various YouTube videos.
