Member Since: 08 Nov 2005
Location: Oldbury, WM
Posts: 10352
easy source of 12v feed by fuse board
Guys
just putting me new sat nav unit in, and I've got all the wiring down to the space by the fuse board (behind the glove box). What I need now is an easy point from which to get a 12v supply. With all this canbus stuff, I dont want to hook into something I shouldn't.
Any ideas?
cheers
AlanVolvo XC90 B5 Plus Dark
Gone - MY18 D5 HSE - Corris on 22's with Black Pack
Now gone - MY16 D4 SE Tech, Loire Blue, Almond Leather, Privacy, plus some other goodies.
Old - MY12 D4 SDV6 XS Auto - Ipanema Sand with Almond Leather - Plus other niceties, and D4.com sticker
Older - D3 TDV6 XS Auto - Lugano Teal with Almond Leather, 20" Stormers, Shiny Tailpipes, DVD/TV - and obligatory D3 sticker
Ancient - D3 TDV6 S - Tonga with Ebony, 20" Stormers, satnav & DVD
16th Dec 2005 4:45 pm
BrianX
Member Since: 11 Dec 2005
Location: Bolton UK - it may be 'grim up north' but at least you get gravy on yer' chips.
Posts: 217
I took power for my RoadAngel by tapping into the AUX power supply next to the ashtray (i.e. the 'other' cigar lighter socket). This is switched with the ignition too.'
'
'05 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'06 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'08 Freelander 2 - gone
'98 P38 V8/LPG - gone
'02 L322 V8 - gone
'02 Freelander 1 - gone
'05 Disco 3 TDV6 - SWMBO
'06 L322 V8 - current
16th Dec 2005 7:02 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
There are several 'safe' feeds at the rear of the IHU....
Permanent power, wake on open and IGN switched. I've not got the colour codes but a test lamp will prove them
Wake on open is probably best for any sat. nav. as it will power up prior to starting, thereby shortening the satellite lockup time
16th Dec 2005 7:14 pm
BrianX
Member Since: 11 Dec 2005
Location: Bolton UK - it may be 'grim up north' but at least you get gravy on yer' chips.
Posts: 217
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Sorry, Integrated Head Unit = Nav. screen, even if it's not fitted the wiring should be there
Generally, all the data wiring is twisted pair, mucking about with this - even stretching the twist - will severely screw your vehicle up
16th Dec 2005 7:22 pm
kjh1957
Member Since: 05 Nov 2005
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 44
Re: easy source of 12v feed by fuse board
al cope wrote:
Guys
just putting me new sat nav unit in, and I've got all the wiring down to the space by the fuse board (behind the glove box). What I need now is an easy point from which to get a 12v supply. With all this canbus stuff, I dont want to hook into something I shouldn't.
Any ideas?
cheers
Alan
Hi. Have a look at my gallery and you will see exactly what you can do to make a tidy safe installation.
16th Dec 2005 9:14 pm
BrianX
Member Since: 11 Dec 2005
Location: Bolton UK - it may be 'grim up north' but at least you get gravy on yer' chips.
Posts: 217
Interesting one KJH. Where do you get the tapa-circuit from, and how on earth does the glovebox come out (I tried for ages when fitting the Nokia phone kit)?'
'
'05 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'06 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'08 Freelander 2 - gone
'98 P38 V8/LPG - gone
'02 L322 V8 - gone
'02 Freelander 1 - gone
'05 Disco 3 TDV6 - SWMBO
'06 L322 V8 - current
16th Dec 2005 9:24 pm
kjh1957
Member Since: 05 Nov 2005
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 44
BrianX wrote:
Interesting one KJH. Where do you get the tapa-circuit from, and how on earth does the glovebox come out (I tried for ages when fitting the Nokia phone kit)?
Firstly the Glovebox. There is a plastic ratchet on each side of the glovebox when open. If you press down the ratchet on each side it allows the glovebox to hinge down, I recall it is described in the handbook for fuse access.
I got the Tapa-circuit mail order from the USA. it cost about $10 and came in a few days. Try this link.
http://www.gizmos-gadgets.com/product_info.php/products_id/96
Best of luck.
16th Dec 2005 9:31 pm
BrianX
Member Since: 11 Dec 2005
Location: Bolton UK - it may be 'grim up north' but at least you get gravy on yer' chips.
Posts: 217
aaaaahhhhhh, handbook, hmmmmmm. Never thought of that. I didn't realise that there were fuses there, and assumed that there wasn't a section titled 'how to remove bits of your D3 thus enabling you to add extra thingys'. Is there a section on getting wires through bulkheads without drilling any holes?'
'
'05 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'06 Disco3 TDV6 - gone
'08 Freelander 2 - gone
'98 P38 V8/LPG - gone
'02 L322 V8 - gone
'02 Freelander 1 - gone
'05 Disco 3 TDV6 - SWMBO
'06 L322 V8 - current
16th Dec 2005 9:38 pm
kjh1957
Member Since: 05 Nov 2005
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 44
BrianX wrote:
aaaaahhhhhh, handbook, hmmmmmm. Never thought of that. I didn't realise that there were fuses there, and assumed that there wasn't a section titled 'how to remove bits of your D3 thus enabling you to add extra thingys'. Is there a section on getting wires through bulkheads without drilling any holes?
I don't think there is a page for that one but I do recall seeing a suggestion somewhere on this forum. Try a search.
It's possible, I've just done it, will post piccys soonThe End
16th Dec 2005 9:43 pm
al cope
Member Since: 08 Nov 2005
Location: Oldbury, WM
Posts: 10352
done it
Guys
thanks for all the replies. I already had the glovebox out, and the Nav unit fits exactly where the factory head unit goes (I brought one of these 5" screen models, that also has a vido input), and I was just searching for a 12v feed. With the dash centre section removed (it just pulls out), I got down behnd the aux sockets (as suggested), and nicked a feed from there. Just the roof mount DVD to fit now!
AlanVolvo XC90 B5 Plus Dark
Gone - MY18 D5 HSE - Corris on 22's with Black Pack
Now gone - MY16 D4 SE Tech, Loire Blue, Almond Leather, Privacy, plus some other goodies.
Old - MY12 D4 SDV6 XS Auto - Ipanema Sand with Almond Leather - Plus other niceties, and D4.com sticker
Older - D3 TDV6 XS Auto - Lugano Teal with Almond Leather, 20" Stormers, Shiny Tailpipes, DVD/TV - and obligatory D3 sticker
Ancient - D3 TDV6 S - Tonga with Ebony, 20" Stormers, satnav & DVD
17th Dec 2005 12:48 pm
robbi
Member Since: 02 Jan 2006
Location: Channel Islands
Posts: 8
10forcash wrote:
There are several 'safe' feeds at the rear of the IHU....
Permanent power, wake on open and IGN switched. I've not got the colour codes but a test lamp will prove them
Wake on open is probably best for any sat. nav. as it will power up prior to starting, thereby shortening the satellite lockup time
10forcash, you were looking at a carputer. Were you thinking of getting power from these safe feeds? I won't have the SATNAV screen.
From what I have learnt you can use an inverter or DC-DC power supply. The DC-DC (eg. Carnetix P1900) being the better option.
From what I have learnt it is considered better to run your own dedicated power cable from the '+' battery terminal and '-' to nearest ground point.
Is this something you had considered and how easy is it to get from the battery to a point behind the dash?08 Sport TDV8
2nd Jan 2006 6:28 pm
10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
Robbi,
Depends if you want a permanent or switched +ve, i've had a 'scope on the accessory socket below the heater controls and there is no significant noise (with a 10A passive load), although this is switched. there is a permanent supply to the heater controls on Connector C2655, pin 1, it's protected at 10A. There is (according to Slimer) a blind grommet accessible on the R/H/S of the vehicle, if you're planning on fitting a supplementary battery. this would be an ideal route. There is a 50A supply to the aux. fusebox behind the glovebox but it's a pig to tap onto
There is a permanent supply to the unused relay sockets though, a 1/4" male Lucar connector would provide a good source of power
2nd Jan 2006 6:48 pm
robbi
Member Since: 02 Jan 2006
Location: Channel Islands
Posts: 8
10forcash wrote:
Depends if you want a permanent or switched +ve:
I am thinking a permanent supply to a DC-DC supply, since it will be able to auto startup/shutdown the PC. Using the accessory socket with an inverter requires manual start/shut down of PC and could do damage if you leave PC on and then crank the engine back on.
10forcash wrote:
There is a permanent supply to the unused relay sockets though, a 1/4" male Lucar connector would provide a good source of power
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
I didn't realise that there were fuses there, and assumed that there wasn't a section titled 'how to remove bits of your D3 thus enabling you to add extra thingys'. 
Is there a section on getting wires through bulkheads without drilling any holes?
but I do recall seeing a suggestion somewhere on this forum. Try a search.
