She's been sluggish cranking over first thing in the mornings the last couple of weeks, but fine the rest of the day even after only a short run.Yesterday morning I spotted that as I started her the radio displayed "Power Saving Mode" then "Low Voltage" when I got back home I put a meter on both the main battery at the auxillary and both has 12.95V (we ignition off and keys out.)
As it was only a problem in the mornings I've left her over night and just checked again - main battery is down to 11.95V
Now, coincidentally, in the last week to 10 days I've found my iPOD doesn't respond to the up/down track buttons from the steering wheel anymore, radio & CD do both respond - so I am wondering if I've pinched a cable on the iPOD cradle when I refitted it to the centre cubby and this is causing a short and thereby draining the battery, but doesn't this power off when the ignition is off?
I'm going to try and take a look at the iPOD cabling today, but in the meantime what are the thoughts regarding my battery - I don't want to wait much longer before deciding as I know if I do it's bound to fail over the Xmas holidays when no ones open. The battery's just over 3 years old and done 45K - normal working week motoring is quite a few short journeys first thing in the mornings, but usually one or two 15 mile runs a day - Oh and when it's cold SWMBO does like to use the FBH timer (banned her at present, so I'm not popular )LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
Interesting... interesting... Not related specifically to your battery concerns, but...
These days I always get 'low power mode' for the first couple of minutes of every journey, and I also have trouble controlling the ipod with the steering controls. Out of interest, have you tapped anything else into the steering controls - e.g. parrot phone kit?
The reason I ask: I know exactly why my ipod control doesn't work, it's because my computer is sensing (and affecting) the voltage on the steering buttons, and has dropped them to a range where the ipod unit doesn't recognise the levels any more.
I wonder if on mine, the low power mode is related to the steering buttons thing - which voltage does the IHU check to decide that the voltage is low? The 12v supply from battery, or the 5v ish returned from the steering buttons?
I'm at 45k, 3yrs and I'm starting to think about a new battery too. However, short journeys - especially with all the toys running - creates a hell of a drain on the battery. I'm actually wondering if investing in a good charger (capable of doing the lead/calcium battery) wouldn't be a bad idea in the first instance The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom
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16th Dec 2008 9:32 am
BrumLee
Member Since: 07 Mar 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 1366
11.95v doesn't sound too bad. You'll have a higher voltage after a run, but even on a new battery it will drop as it looses it's surface charge. Really you need to check voltage on cranking the engine, anything below 9.6v means the battery is shorting across the plates. HTH
16th Dec 2008 9:33 am
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15264
Been having some low voltage starts since then ie clearing my trip meter, ave mileage readings, pre-set radio stations etc.
Even after a few days of non use it has still been starting at sub zero temps.
However on Sunday after a trip to the moors, sitting for 3 hours, when I came to start it just fired up and no more.
It does seem if it is the battery [but don't know why the fault is so inconsistent]
Got it booked into my local garage tomorrow with view to replacing the battery after he's done checks on the electrical system.
So if he replaces the battery and the fault still occurs, I can reject the new battery [as he hasn't rectified the fault].
Will keep you posted....... always on the road less travelled 🚧
Out of interest, have you tapped anything else into the steering controls - e.g. parrot phone kit?
Nope, only the ipod. The thing is it worked fine for over a year in the standard position next to the steering wheel, but I got paranoid because I kept leaving the iPod in plain view for everyone to see and thought some little scroat would soon enough nick it, so I followed in your footsteps and put the cradle into the cubby - didn't extend/cut any cables simply relocated the thing.LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
So if he replaces the battery and the fault still occurs, I can reject the new battery [as he hasn't rectified the fault]. Will keep you posted.
So if you end up rejecting the battery afterwards - does that mean there'll be a cheap nearly new battery available
Only kidding, but thanks will be interested to see what comes of it.LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
16th Dec 2008 9:48 am
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi MrH, before you do anything, you need to see if the alternator is actually charging the battery.
After taking a 15 minute drive, leave the motor running and measure the voltage at the battery.
From a cold start, try not to drive much more than 15 minutes before you take your reading because the D3 will reduce voltage if it senses that the battery is near fully charged.
A better way to test and get an idea of how the charge voltage works on a D3, run a length of speaker cable from the cranking battery terminals, into the cab and connect your multi meter there so you can read as you drive.
The minimum voltage at the battery should be 13.8 and even high in cold temps.
Anything above this voltage will fully charge the battery ( depending on how long you drive for ).
If you get a voltage reading between 13.2 and 13.8 in that first 15 minutes, you will be putting some charge into the battery but it’s never going to fully charge, no matter how long you drive for.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
Thanks for all the replies - will try and look at the matter later today. Need to sort out a few "work related" bits first though LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
Well I've just checked the iPOD cradle wire and sure enough I'd routed it wrong and got it kinked at 90 degrees in 2 places - straighten it out, re-routed (and checked this time ) and it works again. I'll give the motor a blast today and see what the battery is like tomorrow -if it's down I know to start looking at cranking & charge voltages next.LRs are a fond memory, apart from the maintenance.
16th Dec 2008 11:53 am
DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
MrH
Check the starter motor. ive had slow cranking on D3 and Defender. on first inspection it may look like battery but battery was checked and fine. Starter motor was on its way out and finally packed up two weeks later.
constant wading in water and mud doesnt helpDuncan
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After a lot of wasted time deliberating, I've just ordered one of these
Hopefully, this should help keep my battery in a better condition. Anyone know what sort of lifespan you can expect from a normal battery?The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom
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16th Dec 2008 1:44 pm
drivesafe
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: Gold Coast, Australia
Posts: 867
Hi JMC, I don’t know if you have a special reason for buying a charger that large but to keep a vehicle battery in good nick, any multi stage 2 to 4 amp battery charger will do the job.
It’s actually the trickle charge stage that is required, so high currents are not that important.2008 TDV8 RR Lux + 2009 D4 2.7
I went for that one specifically because it caters for Lead/Calcium batteries. Most of the cheaper ones stated Lead/Acid only. The older I get, the more I realise that people confuse wrinkles for wisdom
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http://www.expresstools.co.uk/shopscr2941.html
we need this one to connect when we do diagnosis work etc to stop the battery voltage dropping off and causing software update failuresTLO has left the building.......
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)
) and it works again. I'll give the motor a blast today and see what the battery is like tomorrow -if it's down I know to start looking at cranking & charge voltages next.
