Member Since: 10 Jun 2005
Location: cheshire
Posts: 177
to waxoyl or not to waxoyl that is the question
Picking up my new d3 on 1st march and pondering whether to get it Waxoyled, or similar.
I've been quoted £239 which seems OK.
what do you think?
18th Feb 2009 11:25 pm
Ollie GBR
Member Since: 05 Jan 2009
Location: milton keynes
Posts: 134
£239's a good price.
Waxoil is messy to apply, and there's every chance of overspray so make sure it's all been removed before you pay.
There are alternatives to waxoil worth investigating.
If your not going to off road it, and not going to keep it longer than 3-4 years, I wouldn't bother!
I waxoil my Defender 110 only because it has an old steel chassis that I want to last without constant welding, and because I go off-road in it.
Hope that helps,
OllieThis Game of Ghosts
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1994 Land Rover Defender 110
19th Feb 2009 11:11 am
B16 KJR
Member Since: 10 Jul 2006
Location: Rosyth, Fife
Posts: 3005
As Ollie GBR says it depends on how long you plan to keep the car. I had mine done ASAP after I bought it by "before N after" not cheap, but I plan to keep the car so worth it for me. They reckon if you have it done every 5 years, there should be no rust !! We will see.
19th Feb 2009 11:21 am
Shrinky
Member Since: 05 Jul 2007
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 2515
I thought it had a 6 year anti corrosion warranty Global Warming.... I'm luvvin it
19th Feb 2009 11:37 am
Ocsid
Member Since: 29 Nov 2005
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 255
The quality of the subframe and associated linkages etc paint work desperately needs protecting from our salted roads.
I have no doubt as it leaves the factory it will not corrode away to a structural failure in 6 or even 10 years, however I have never had a vehicle in 45 years of motoring that rusts underneath so badly.
I had my second one "done" before it left the dealer because of how the first one went; that's a good price if its a proper rather than cosmetic job.
I have done my Defenders for years with Dinitrol and Supertrol products with excellent results but its a hateful job to DIY.
The bodywork itself, cavities etc seem well sorted, its just that chassis unit, links etc that are in real need of better protection.
In terms of the factory finishes that are specified on bolts, brackets and larger parts, the performance of the coatings has improved dramatically over the last 20 years.
But on the basis that every bit helps, I cannot see a down side providing it clean and dry when applied.
"I know that you believe that you understood what you think I said, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant"
19th Feb 2009 2:35 pm
mikep
Member Since: 20 Jun 2008
Location: royton
Posts: 32
Just had first MOT and the guy let me have a good look underneath the vehicle whilst over the pit.. , I need to spend some time with a wire brush, 'waxoil' (other protective fluids are available) and underbody paint. Does anyone know of anywhere that needs particular attention or if there are any areas that shouldn't be gunged (thinking about gumming up the sensors and electrics), with my old Disco1 I had no such worries. All constuctive advice will be gratefully received.Know your limitations, come closer to perfection.
Other wheels, Honda CBR1100XX Super Blackbird.
Other pleasures, SWMBO,......honest dear!
22nd Mar 2009 11:57 pm
John C
Member Since: 28 Aug 2007
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 3292
Wait until the summer, then £10-15 at your local friendly truck fitters for an under-body steam clean on their ramps. Let it dry out for a couple of days (try not to get it muddy). Find a decent old-school body shop and get them to do the waxoyl for you £70-ish. Then get it done every year or so.
Did that on my D2 - and it was spotless. Got the dealer to do it before I picked up (Lakeland), and will do the above process this summer.
IMHO, avoid just a cosmetic spray (need to get it really clean before you start). Avoid anyone that can do it in a day, unless they have all the gear to properly dry out after cleaning - you'll just trap water. Don't bother doing it yourself unless you have a decent ramp and somewhere that you don't mind getting dirty - it goes everywhere and is also horrible stuff to get off. IMHO £500+ every five years feels like a lot of money, and a long time between sprays. They'll probably do a more thorough job than what I opted for, but getting it cleaned off and reapplied every year seemed to me to be a better option. I did look at one guy who offered a really great looking service at quite a price, but it seemed so aggressively overs-sold that it put me off a bit...
Def worth doing I reckon, especially with the amount of salt being thrown on the roads this winter!
John2020 SDV6 D5 HSE, Carpathian Grey +
2022 Tesla Model Y LR... almost Carpathian Grey
Previously : 2005 TDV6 SE Auto, Cairns Blue (288K) - ours for 16 years
Alternatively, get it up on ramps and give the underside a good freshwater pressure wash every few months. If the surface rust has already started (and it will have from the moment it rolls off the production line) it's very difficult to stop it, even with Waxoyl or similar products.Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
23rd Mar 2009 12:28 pm
horton_graham
Member Since: 10 Jun 2005
Location: cheshire
Posts: 177
I decided to go the DIY route.
Bought Tetra Tetrosyl Body Shutz with a gun for use with an air compressor.
Blew it into the door and chasis caveities, over the chasis and the floor areas I could reasonably get to.
Seems to have left a good protected surface.
Time will tell how good.
My Previous disco 2 I kept for just under 3 years.
My disco 1 I kept for 13. Now that could have done with some early treatment!
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, I need to spend some time with a wire brush, 'waxoil' (other protective fluids are available) and underbody paint. Does anyone know of anywhere that needs particular attention or if there are any areas that shouldn't be gunged (thinking about gumming up the sensors and electrics), with my old Disco1 I had no such worries. All constuctive advice will be gratefully received.
