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parrot
Member Since: 10 Sep 2009
Location: North Somerset
Posts: 288
  
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So ive got my D3, and now thinking of getting "Permashine" or similar applied ?
Has anyone had this done, can you reccomend anyone ? Is it worth it ?
Just thinking i need to protect my investment and to help looking nice and shiny !!
Or do i just need to keep going with the Autoglym ("Wax on Wax Off") 
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 7th Oct 2009 3:49 pm |
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jkp
Member Since: 16 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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My personal experience of these types of protection systems is that they are expensive and can be a hit or miss if you get it applied properly. I've seen plenty of very poorly applied products that folk have paid over £300 for 
Your best option is to do it yourself with some good products, because even with lifetime applications you will need to top these up, so why not do it yourself from the start, spend a lot less that the £300 and get some good products with no where near that amount. 
I can recommend...
http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic40088.html
not because I'm selling it, but because its a good deal on quality products.
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| 7th Oct 2009 4:47 pm |
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DigitalJunior
Member Since: 22 Nov 2008
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 4401
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What about a product such as 'supagard' wax protection. I have had this on two brand new BMWs and its given a lasting shine over a couple of years. You can purchase the sponge application off ebay for about £10-£15 and apply yourself. SOLD - 23my Range Rover Sport D300 Dynamic SE
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| 7th Oct 2009 6:04 pm |
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GoatOfMendez
Member Since: 02 May 2009
Location: cheltenham
Posts: 92
 
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Sadly i'm a bit of a detailing geek. I firmly believe these products are a rip off.
As an engineer as well as a geek i can say that gloss and shine levels have little to do with any form of wax or sealant applied on top of your paint. Shine and gloss you see from your paintwork are dependant upon surface defects, or rather a lack of them. Shine is due to incident light being reflected off that surface. Defects scatter the light and cause it to be dull. Now, some products can clean to remove surface contaminents and also fill to fill in light scratches to improve shine without any hard graft, but only provide a temporary measure.
Last stage protection is largely there to stop further crud sticking to your paint, make cleaning easier, and to give us something to do on a sunday afternoon. The premium products with year long warranties etc are no more than synthetic sealants, and they really don't last the time they say they will. Your options are:
a) buy the premium product and apply it yourself (you'll probably do as good a job as joe valeter) for £30-50.
b) If you only want last stage protection, buy a highly durable wax or sealant which if used correctly can last up to 6 months for £20 quid (a highly durable wax such as collinite 476)
c) Or go the whole hog and pay a detailer to get it machine polished and then waxed - giving the best possible finish for the same cost as a premium product, and you won't have been ripped off.
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| 7th Oct 2009 10:31 pm |
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Popelka
Member Since: 31 May 2008
Location: Praha (Prague)
Posts: 2430
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when I do mine I use a wax followed by polish then a sealant, would that be the correct order of use???
OT how does it work on these matt finishes that some manufacturers have brought out??
you cant buff to a shine but I'm sure you would want it to be protected ! Experience is a difficult teacher, because she gives the test first and then the lesson afterwards!!!!
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| 8th Oct 2009 5:10 am |
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Slimer
Site Moderator
Member Since: 06 Jan 2005
Location: Last Exit to Nowhere
Posts: 16295
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Autoglym Lifeshine gets my vote, v. pleased with it. As JKP says anything like this must be applied correctly though, I know mine was...... Ken did it The End
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| 8th Oct 2009 7:18 am |
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Discofever
Member Since: 18 Dec 2008
Location: Norwich, Norfolk
Posts: 86
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Collinite 476 S, is IMHO the best wax available, its also totally detergent proof - it really is the biz  2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE auto, Cairns Blue, Lamp Guards, LR Roof Bars - Just love it!
Club AT2
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| 8th Oct 2009 11:13 am |
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goodfella
Member Since: 03 Apr 2007
Location: Salford
Posts: 533
 
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Popelka wrote:when I do mine I use a wax followed by polish then a sealant, would that be the correct order of use???
No mate - its Polish, Sealant, Wax. Although you can probably manage with only one of the Sealant/Wax combo. Badda bing.......How you doin'?
Java black SE, standard spec. Clean and shiny.
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| 8th Oct 2009 11:43 am |
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GoatOfMendez
Member Since: 02 May 2009
Location: cheltenham
Posts: 92
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As goodfella says polish first. But be careful here. A polish is, by definition, an abbrassive product, but most people and even manufacturers use the term "polish" for all sorts of products. When people tell me, "oh i polished the car today" usually they didn't. They applied a product that was labelled as polish but actually wasn't a polish! If people truely polished their cars every week they'd long since have gone through the clear coat and be down to the primer by now!!
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| 8th Oct 2009 1:11 pm |
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jkp
Member Since: 16 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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removed post so as not to offend person or persons
Last edited by jkp on 8th Oct 2009 9:30 pm. Edited 2 times in total
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| 8th Oct 2009 8:03 pm |
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goodfella
Member Since: 03 Apr 2007
Location: Salford
Posts: 533
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JKP - i think you should have more confidence in your own detailing service, rather than jump down the throat of an amateur detailer with some good knowledge on the subject.
I don't think he was inferring that you (or a.n. other detailer) would be ripping people off with a full machine polish and correction as I read his comments to compare the detailing service with the premium sealants like Supaguard or similar, which you yourself dismiss as "hit or miss".
I think he'd agree that the service offered by Joe Valeter is far removed from that provided by you or another detailer in price and service.
His comments regarding polish are general and make no reference to pre wax cleansers like Lime Prime and although far too general he is right in saying that regular 'polishing' could go right down through the clear coat although reference to different polish types would have helped. if his comments have no merit there would be no need for a paint thickness gauge which I'm sure you carry.
There are alot of amateur views on this forum, none of which to my knowledge are made with the intention of upsetting the professionals. I'm sure that other professional detailers would have different techniques and views to yours on various ways to detail a car so there is no need to be sarastic about anyone who wished to reference their point. Badda bing.......How you doin'?
Java black SE, standard spec. Clean and shiny.
_______________________________________________
Club TFC - Off Road Essentials
Club Tesco Finest Warranty
Club G4 Stickers even though it's not a G4
Club Rhino Rack
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| 8th Oct 2009 9:10 pm |
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Discofever
Member Since: 18 Dec 2008
Location: Norwich, Norfolk
Posts: 86
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Wow, some people seem to get very upset............. Live life relax........... Geat real........ 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE auto, Cairns Blue, Lamp Guards, LR Roof Bars - Just love it!
Club AT2
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| 8th Oct 2009 9:11 pm |
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jkp
Member Since: 16 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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very good and concise reply goodfella
jumping down throat? check
confidence in own detailing service? check
blah, blah, blah.......
Sorry if I seem sarcastic, but not really sure why you replied to the post in the detailed and constructed way you did? Seems that your reply was scripted to perpetuate exactly what causes mis-context and debate within forum life.
So to that end I have removed my initial post as I seem to have hit a nerve and as that old saying goes, "anyone who knows me" knows that is not what I am about.
Forums....don't ya just love 'em 
Maybe a good move for this thread to be locked ?!? Or if anyone feels the need hit the wee triangle in the corner.
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| 8th Oct 2009 9:30 pm |
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