Member Since: 20 Sep 2009
Location: St Albans
Posts: 113
Recovery Kit
After a fabulous day at the Rockingham LRE driving a D4 on a Level 1 course, they recommend getting a certificated tow rope as long as possible and also individually tested shackles.
I have a few questions first what sort of rating should the rope and shackles have?
They suggested the rope should be as long as possible ie about 8m what do people think
Finally where's best to buy this stuff from struggling to find places that have certified items.
Give those chaps a ring and they'll sort something out with appropriate hooks. Well, LR have to get them from somewhere
If you look here: http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic28679.h...ting+crane You'll see a previous group buy (NOW CLOSED) that was arranged so you can check the spec etc.I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
10th Dec 2009 12:17 am
kernowexpeditionaryforce
Member Since: 15 Jan 2009
Location: Kernow
Posts: 329
firstly a shovel is one on the best bits of kit to have, i personally use a folding army type one (about a tenner from an army surplus store)
certainly keep a few basic tools in the car, bowsaw, screwdrivers etc,
recovery wise then some tested 4.75 tonne shackles are ideal (paint them with fluro paint - makes it easier to spot if u drop them!) and a good quality snatch (kenetic) strap - think mine is 8000kg britpart one (about 40 quid)
a headtorch is also very useful,
hope that helps, bear in mind D3's/4's dont get stuck! 8)
hope that helps, bear in mind D3's/4's dont get stuck! 8)
Very often...... But its always the drivers fault if they do FORECAST FOR TONIGHT: things have happened out there!!!
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10th Dec 2009 12:23 am
kernowexpeditionaryforce
Member Since: 15 Jan 2009
Location: Kernow
Posts: 329
NoDo$h wrote:
Kinetic recovery rope on a D3 ???
Incoming!
? never actually had to use mine... although was sold it by a local specialist.....
They're not..... subtle in their application. The forces applied in a kinetic recovery can do a huge amount of damage. Remember that you have a monocoque on a conventional chassis held together with bolts and bushings. You start yanking on the chassis with those kind of forces and you could well find the body mounts getting damaged. A quick look on youtube for kinetic recoveries should terrify you sufficiently.
Normal nylon rope has about 10% stretch, which is plenty for recovering a D3. If you can't get it out with steady towing, it's time to rethink your recovery rather than just booting the throttle with a glorified catapult loaded with a shackle tied between your cars. Waffles, shovels, branches, floor mats, air jacks, tirfors, all can do the trick. Often you only need to shift the car a foot or less for it to regain traction, particularly in wet washboard sections where all 4 wheels may have settled at a point where they have to climb out of the rut no matter which direction you pull.
Mistake many make is to try and pull through the obstacle, rather than pulling back to the last point where the vehicle had traction and reconsidering the need to drive that section and the way it should be driven. I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
10th Dec 2009 1:15 am
kernowexpeditionaryforce
Member Since: 15 Jan 2009
Location: Kernow
Posts: 329
described as a tow strap.... not "kinetic"... (as was sold to me, so never any reason to doubt it!)
totally agree nodosh, ive been/recovered a good few times but always used others kit hence the confusion!
if the above strap is wrong pls advise and ill change it!
It's not man enough for the job. You really really need to know if it is definately a kinetic strop or not, if it is an ordinary strop and you use it as a kinetic strop then it or parts of the car or a shackle will be going somewhere at over 400miles / hr.
IMHO I would go for 12 Ton at least and check wether this is the Safe Working Load or the Maximum Working Load or the Break Strain.
Personally I'm with NoDo$h, Kinetic recovery really works but can be very dangerous in the wrong hands, usually under rated or wrong equipment causing the problems.
Oh and personally I would check anyone's equipment before letting them pull me. Club Pie n Pea
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10th Dec 2009 6:35 am
cold_n_wet
Member Since: 05 May 2009
Location: Bergen
Posts: 1509
OFF TOPIC
"Oh and personally I would check anyone's equipment before letting them pull me. "
That did not sound right to me
Back on topic,
Helmet on -
My personal choice is a piece of dynemma, used a a tow rope or winch extension.
It takes up less room- easier to hide in the car and has slightly less stretch then rope.
They can be dangerous too look at the pictures from TFC's trip, but no more dangerous then a snaping rope.
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10th Dec 2009 7:07 am
PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
NoDo$h wrote:
Often you only need to shift the car a foot or less for it to regain traction
This is excellent advice....people often forget that theyy had no problem driving to where they eventually got stuck (usually all of a sudden due to ruts etc), so it's often necessary just to back out or advance a little bit to be able to regain traction. It's far better to just shift your car a metre or so and then drive out yourself.
kernowexpeditionaryforce wrote:
totally agree nodosh, ive been/recovered a good few times but always used others kit hence the confusion!
If you have your own recovery kit and keep a close eye on it, then always insist on using it - you have no idea if someone elses kit is serviceable or trustworthy.
Also, lots of people have the "same" shackles.....just write your name a couple of times on your own ones so that you don't pick up someone elses by mistake.
I would probably only not worry about using someone elses kit if it's a simple "flat wet grass" type pull.....where really very little force is needed to allow you to crawl out....if it's deep mud, then forget it and get your own "tackle" out...2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE AutoBuckingham Blue 2007 Golf GT DSG
10th Dec 2009 8:44 am
MARKW
Member Since: 29 Aug 2008
Location: SW
Posts: 2390
kernowexpeditionaryforce wrote:
firstly a shovel is one on the best bits of kit to have, i personally use a folding army type one (about a tenner from an army surplus store)
certainly keep a few basic tools in the car, bowsaw, screwdrivers etc,
recovery wise then some tested 4.75 tonne shackles are ideal (paint them with fluro paint - makes it easier to spot if u drop them!) and a good quality snatch (kenetic) strap - think mine is 8000kg britpart one (about 40 quid)
a headtorch is also very useful,
hope that helps, bear in mind D3's/4's dont get stuck! 8)
Perhaps I've misunderstood you but if you paint your shackles you WILL be able to see them in the mud/grass but you WON'T be able to see and hairline cracks properly. The end of the pin should be painted to show it's rated.
Why not use cable ties through the pin and around the shank of the shackle to show ownership. Much safer than painting.HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE
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10th Dec 2009 9:13 am
Willy Eckerslike
Member Since: 12 Jan 2009
Location: N Yorks
Posts: 1612
Quicker and easier way of checking for cracks is to take out the pin and tap the shackle against something metallic, it should ring if it sounds dull it's more than likely got a crack. To be honest painted or not you won't see a crack until it's too late. just stick to proper lifting shackles (bow being the best) with SWL loads stamped on them and you should be safe.Club Pie n Pea
One life....Fish it
D3 Gone but not forgotten
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Club Walnut sniffers
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Ents long lost Uncle
10th Dec 2009 10:19 am
Stu
Member Since: 08 Feb 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2423
On my climbing kit I use coloured tape so I know what kit is mine and it also helps spot it on grass etc. You could use this on your shackles. I would never paint my climbing kit for the same reasons that Mark suggests, so I think his comments on shackles make sense.
Those of us that did Hogmor have seen what can happen with a kinetic recovery with a D3 and I would be very cautious about using it. If you are using it or even a static rope / strop I would suggest a winch blanket as a sensible precaution to help absorb some of the force should the strop let go, not perfect but sensible.D3 HSE MY05 Auto
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But its always the drivers fault if they do 
