Going to get underneath the disco whilst the weather is good and the road salting hasn't begun.
It's brand new and I have some waxoyl which I am going to brush on.
Which crevices, bolts, nuts, bushes should I concentrate on.. Going to be keeping her for a few years and want to keep it as serviceable as possible.
Suppose brake lines is a good start point...
Cheers in advance.LR4 HSE 5.0 V8 Alaska White
LR4 HSE 5.0 V8 Nara Bronze (Gone)
D4 Landmark SDV6 Black(Gone)
Velar 240 S Eiger Grey
FLTRXST
10th Sep 2011 10:00 pm
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1929
Have been looking at this issue for a while and would offer the following points. First, I think you're probably wasting your time brushing waxoyl on. If you can get a brush to somewhere, the stuff won't last. I assume you'd want to high pressure wash the underside of the car quite often to keep the crud down (which is what does the damage) and remove salt deposits during the winter from the gritters, etc. The waxoyl will be removed quite quickly. I'd say you're better off cleaning the underside more often, than brushing on some of the stuff. Second, it's really designed to be sprayed on so it can get to the hard to get to parts. Its probably of most use in the parts you can't get a pressure washer into, so inside the chassis areas, up in nooks and crannies, etc.
Having looked at this quite a bit, the first thing I'm going to do is treat the obvious rust areas on my chassis and paint with hammerite. When I have access to air and a ramp or pit (mid next year) I will do the waxoyl thing, but won't bother putting in on the places I know I'll frequently pressure wash, as that's probably a more effective method for preserving the chassis. I will, though, do the hard to reach areas with a waxoyl probe.PAGODA
11th Sep 2011 7:28 am
grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6403
from what I have done so far i would protect all the weld areas and sharish edges around the chassis as those tend to rust quickest all the rest seems to be fine regardless the amount of I throw at it
Waxoyl is quite good at staying on during routine washing.. ( the 5 litre can has been around for many many years in my garage!)
I know what you mean on plain steel, probably better off painting.
What about underbody shutz, machine mart have a package deal and I do have a compressor?LR4 HSE 5.0 V8 Alaska White
LR4 HSE 5.0 V8 Nara Bronze (Gone)
D4 Landmark SDV6 Black(Gone)
Velar 240 S Eiger Grey
FLTRXST
11th Sep 2011 8:39 am
Russell
Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
How long dod you intent to keep the car, from what has been said on here the underside of the D3/D4's seems to be well protected as it is and is also very thick material so will take a lot od corrosion before it has a major impact.MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club
I am going to have the car as a company car for 4 years and then buy it.
I have had several 10year old shoguns, and they aren't pretty untreated.
Stopped off at the motorfactors and bought a new 5 litre can of Black Waxoyl.
It was probably one of the last pleasant evenings last night, before the bad weather comes.
Getting underneath there was a lot of lovely shiny bits of metal and bolts, ready to fur up in the winter.
So working round the vehicle, I concentrated on metal panels that will see weather, bolt heads, clamps etc.
Waxoyled (neat, thick) onto all the suspension fixings, drop arms.
All the Sump Guard bolts heads and exposed threads.
Calliper fixings
All the front bash plates
Rear wheels inside (Steel)
Trim screws
Chassis Legs, EAS Tank
Chassis Number is stamped on chassis rail, waxed this up so it doesn't disappear
Was interesting to see light corrosion on the unprotected cast suspension parts and also the drive shaft ends.
...I am going to continue (Weather Permitting) with a can of 'Galvafroid' Zinc Paint on the all nice and shiny metal parts to see if I can stop them furring up too.
Work up to now, 2 hours... and a fair bit of time in the shower...
A bit happier now! LR4 HSE 5.0 V8 Alaska White
LR4 HSE 5.0 V8 Nara Bronze (Gone)
D4 Landmark SDV6 Black(Gone)
Velar 240 S Eiger Grey
FLTRXST
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I throw at it
