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guy lewis
Member Since: 13 May 2009
Location: leominster
Posts: 162
  
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Hi. Has anyone used any of the various engine oil additives/enhancers that are readily available e.g slick 50, xado stage 1 etc? The sales blurb they give all sounds good but they do have an axe to grind. Does it really do what it says on the tin? Any feed back will be greatfully resieved. D3 bonatti grey
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 2nd May 2012 8:14 pm |
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Disco4SE
Member Since: 23 Aug 2010
Location: Mt Martha Australia
Posts: 69
 
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guy lewis wrote:Hi. Has anyone used any of the various engine oil additives/enhancers that are readily available e.g slick 50, xado stage 1 etc? The sales blurb they give all sounds good but they do have an axe to grind. Does it really do what it says on the tin? Any feed back will be greatfully resieved.
I used to use Slick 50 in my older vehicles and found that they ran smoother and the oil stayed cleaner longer.
Also, quieter at start up.
I'm a bit hesitant to use it in my newer vehicles though.
Be good to hear others feedback.
Cheers, Craig
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| 3rd May 2012 7:54 pm |
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Stevie D
Member Since: 10 Sep 2009
Location: Bishops Stortford
Posts: 276
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Don't go there. Snake oil all of them, read the oil bible search in google.
Steve  Discovery 3 HSE - sold
Defender 90 TD5 Station Wagon - sold
Mini Cooper Clubman
Discovery 4 XS
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| 3rd May 2012 8:14 pm |
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BLFarrar
Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Le Halifax, West Yorkshire...with strong links to Ireland
Posts: 6222
 
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to improve the oil that carries them....
Slick 50 claims it plates the metal surfaces with PTFE.....impossible ...if you have ever tried to apply PTFE in any industrial processs you need super clean oil free surfaces....my tests on a couple of cars proved it didnt do anything different.
Motor UP....claimed everything....engine could run without oil...it made totally cream crackered engines like new...vivid emonstrations on TV...there were some courts cases...they were done fro fraud I beleive
Nulon.......much the same as Slick 50
STP.......the engine oil variety same as slick 50 tried but didnt make any difference
Wynns....more costly version of STP
Rocal Moly...etc
My take on it all is:
~ change the oil as regularly as you need to
~ use good quality known brand oil.
Way back oil change intervals were less than a petrol fueled same size engine...then service intervals went to 10k (Miles) diesel engines followed suit..now its 14 or 15 k miles.....OK there are long life oils.
My VW goes way past 20k before it has to be changed (company car I have no vote onthe matter)
Engine oil may last longer before its done but it has no greater ability or capacity to contain all the water & gunk that accumulate....thats the stufff that stops any oil from either getting to where it needs to get to or do its task especialli on Vee ohd came engines where there is no residual oil....the first few seconds may be running pretty dry.
I ran a Volvo 240 B21e engine till the car had to be retired (23 years & over 360,000 miles recorded) the engine lived on to fight another day in at least three other cars. All I did was change the engine oil every 6k miles.
My disco is engine oil changed evey 6 or 7k miles. BREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
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| 4th May 2012 6:46 am |
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amazing
Member Since: 05 Mar 2011
Location: chengdu
Posts: 1542
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my old 3.5 v8 had a sticky hydraulic tappet as bought. thought i would just change it. spmeone gave me some
slick50 added it and instant tappetless joy.ran for 8yrsafter with no reoccurance. It is better to have and not need it then need and not have it.
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| 4th May 2012 8:58 am |
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guy lewis
Member Since: 13 May 2009
Location: leominster
Posts: 162
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Interesting that the general feeling of the feed back confirms my initial gut feeling and that is "if it sounds to good to be true, it prob is". I will continue to oil and filter change at regular intervals, its cheeper than an engine change. Cheers chaps for the replies. D3 bonatti grey
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| 4th May 2012 9:10 pm |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10808
 
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Pay attention to what BLFarrar says.
JLR have an eye to the cost of servicing when recommending service intervals. In so doing they are thinking about the first, often corporate, purchasers who will keep a car for up to maybe 3 years.
For these users the recommended 15k mile oil change may make sense.
If you plan on keeping your car longer than 2 or 3 years think again.
I expect to keep my D3 for at least 9 years, and so I change oil & filters at half the recommended mileage, as I have done for the two previous Discos.
I sold one with 280k miles on it, having had very few problems, the only major ones being a new radiator, new suspension air bags & a new A/C compressor. The other was sold at a slightly lower mileage again with few major issues. Importantly in each case no engine, clutch or gearbox issues at all.
It may or may not be relevant, but I have always used Shell fuels when available, and have used Redex and every third or fourth tank + Forté Advanced Formula Diesel Treatment from time to time.
NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
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| 5th May 2012 7:33 am |
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turbo10
Member Since: 21 May 2012
Location: Wigan
Posts: 3
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no need for any additives these days with good quality oil IMO
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| 21st May 2012 11:29 am |
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DingMark
Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Perth Oz or Erbil, Iraq
Posts: 388
 
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One thing which has allowed engine oils to last longer and still work is that petrol and diesel are now nearly Sulphur free. In the "good old days" (those crazy HAZY days?) the Sulphur and moisture in the exhaust gasses formed Sulphuric Acid, some of which blew past the rings into the crank case oil. This caused a lot of the sludge that we used to drain whenever changing oil. Acid contamination was nearly always the condition that triggered the breakdown of the oil. Once the Sulphur was removed, oil life was much more a matter of the long molecular chains in the oil breaking down, and with synthetic oils it lasts a very long time, so the problem is just more a mixture of some exhaust blowby and worn metal bits damaging the oil, and warm-up/cool-down causing some moisture to condense in the oil passages, causing rust to the metal. On completely Sulphur free natural gas engines that run continuously (so no moisture ever gets into the oil passages) we can run up to 20,000 hours between oil changes (equivalent to about 1 million kms). This is also why taxi engines seem to last forever.
All this is a complicated way of saying that the era of oil additives is now over, due largely to cleaner fuels and high-quality synthetic oils, which already have whatever additives are needed by the oil manufacturer. Jim Dowell - D4 HSE TDi, 12,000 hydraulic winch & hidden winch mount, MTRs, TyreDog, Traxide 2 x aux battery system, fixed air compressor, Dolium roof rack, MitchHitch.
RIP 2005 D3 HSE V8 5 seater gold (stolen and torched)
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| 22nd May 2012 8:04 am |
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kingofthesparks
Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near Northampton m1 Watford gap
Posts: 429
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But because there is low sulphur the fuel system has lost its lubrication that the sulphur provided, that's why you need 2 stroke oil added to your fuel
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| 22nd May 2012 8:09 am |
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BLFarrar
Member Since: 02 Aug 2006
Location: Deepest, Dankest, Darkest, Dingiest......Le Halifax, West Yorkshire...with strong links to Ireland
Posts: 6222
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the intake of water into engine lube oil.....reduces the lubricity & causes water oil emulsions.
short journeys with engine not at working temperature repitively creates this problem....
this is one of the reasons I change my oil regularly
There is nothing smart or high tech in stretching things to the limit....
also
it doesnt show until you by choice or necessity have to run you vehicle into its afterlife
Reasonable cost Good Quality oil at regular intervals.......a bit old fashioned but it works BREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
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| 22nd May 2012 8:44 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
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BLFarrar
Quote:My disco is engine oil changed evey 6 or 7k miles.
And here also bud for the same reasons you have set out as I have always done on all my cars..
Flack
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| 22nd May 2012 8:56 am |
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Bogblaster
Member Since: 17 Nov 2005
Location: Glawstershire
Posts: 539
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Evening Gents
I had a 2010 Transit blow up lat week as the turbo bearing failed and it ran on its own oil, no problem me thinks, FSH (not Ford, but block exemption as all services carried out with Ford parts to Ford specs) Ford ask for service receipts, so off I send them, 2 hours later Dear Sir you have used an engine flush and due conditioner and as a direct result you have voided the warranty, so Foxtrot Oscar.
I phoned up the garage who did the servicing as I didn't request the engine flush / fuel conditioner, and their response was to say that "the engine flush would not have caused the turbo failure" whilst not disputing this it has still given Ford reason to renege on the warranty.
So from experience DONT DO IT!
This is going to cost me a fortune and I don't see a way out of it......
BB D4 HSE Luxury SDV6,
Cameras, tow assist
Defender 90 Adventure
A4 Avant 3.0l TDI 
CLUB MTR
CLUB BLACK ALLOY
CLUB FFRR RIMS
CLUB VREDESTEIN WINTRAC 4 EXTREME
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| 23rd May 2012 8:37 pm |
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hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
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Can anyone explain why V engines have no residual oil to help lubricate the bearings during a cold start. Don't all engines suffer the same ??.
Many thanks andi.
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| 29th Aug 2012 7:48 pm |
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