Member Since: 04 Dec 2018
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 20
Turbo Exchange Questions
Hi, I’m coming to the conclusion that I’ll have to renew/refurbish the turbo in my 178k miles 2006 55 plate TDV6 S next year as the actuator is jammed solid. I’ve got the P132B-00 fault up and get the engine fault alarm initiating every time I start it up - it doesn’t seem to cause me any problems as long as I don’t boot it - if I do then it goes into limp mode. I’ve tried all sorts to free off the actuator including a £90 carbon clean but it ain’t having it so I’m certain it’s the vanes that are coked up.
I’ve read extensively on this forum and that, with the Haynes and the LR workshop manual, gives me the confidence to have a go so yesterday I thought I’d free off some of the bolts under the car in preparation.
So my first question!
What is the best method to remove the nuts on the two crossmember bolts that are partially (mostly!) obscured by the metal plate under the fuel tank? Dropping the tank seems a lot of extra faff. Haynes, the workshop manual and every article and video I’ve watched just gloss over the issue but show you in glorious detail the bolts at the other end that can be easily accessed!
Any advice gratefully received
19th Nov 2019 1:42 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
It's not difficult.
tank removal is not required.
THe only issue is not to drop the nuts into the tank cradle!
Are you using sockets to undo ?
wire brush threads, apply WD40 a few minutes before undoing
apply more wd40 once loosened
20th Nov 2019 1:11 pm
El Capitano
Member Since: 04 Dec 2018
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 20
Many thanks for your reply.
I’m just scoping the job out at the moment as this task comes after I’ve done the belts and the oil pump so probably won’t start this until next April.
It just looked very tight to get anything other than a ring spanner in there.
If I can get them in I’ll use sockets - and loads of WD40 (or similar!).
Obviously with the tank out of the way it’s an easy job so I just needed confirmation that it can be done with it in place.
20th Nov 2019 2:47 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
I think you just hold the difficult end with a spanner.
And use a socket on the easy end to do the turning
20th Nov 2019 6:41 pm
WRFrance
Member Since: 24 Nov 2008
Location: Down South
Posts: 14
I have just completed the turbocharger replacement on mit 2008 as well.
Remove the front two bolts of the tank cradle as well as the bolt of the tank cradle that is located on the right side next to the chassis rail. This lowers the tank cradle enough that you can put an open spanner on the nuts for the cross member bolts.
Good luck with the job. It definitely is doable through the wheel arch and from below.
20th Nov 2019 8:28 pm
El Capitano
Member Since: 04 Dec 2018
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 20
Well what a performance getting the two bolts out of the tank end of the cross member turned out to be. Lowered the front of the tank as suggested but although I could get the outer bolt out the inner was having none of it. Ended up getting studding and lowering the front of the tank a good few inches then cutting off the nut using a reciprocating saw then battering the bolt using a heavy duty impact wrench until the rust holding the bolt into the tube finally gave way.
So - onwards!
Scoping the next few tasks raises some questions -
1. There are several suggestions about using made up tools to remove the two 'front' nuts holding the turbo to the exhaust manifold/crossover pipe - I have a 13mm crows foot spanner - would that do the job?
2. After I've drilled out the turbo exhaust inlet 'front' stud holes and I come to refit it using the recommended bolts I assume that I'll need to use the original nuts as the flange isn't tapped - is this the case?
3. Is there a gasket between the exhaust manifold flange and the turbo inlet? can't see one on any diagrams or videos but it seems a bit odd not to have one.
Many thanks,
Colin
23rd Sep 2020 3:17 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
from what I recall....
1. A crows foot is worth ago
2. I think you just unwind the studs (using 2 nuts locked together). No nuts required on reassembly
3. No. There is certainly one joint without a gasket
I made one of these up when I did my own turbo, a crows foot does not work, it just spreads. Its just two old backwards socket's with the socket ends opposite each other.
Flack
23rd Sep 2020 4:42 pm
El Capitano
Member Since: 04 Dec 2018
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 20
Thanks for your replies, useful info as always on this site.
Last run out on the bike on Monday then I need to park the Disco in front of the garage and get on with this.
Hopefully it'll just need a recon but we'll see once it's out.
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