Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Tyre pump install quick and cheap
Air compressor installed behind left rear cubby.
First image is the grommet where rust is prone, so I sprayed Denitrol converter and re attached the rubber and 2 bolts. The third bolt is attached to the fixture in the pump. And then zip tied the unit to the chunky stiff loom so it’s solid in place. Took about 30 minutes. Camel pump off eBay £25 lifetime warranty 150psi. Looks half decent.
Just need to find a longer extension hose as the yellow one won’t reach any wheels to pump 😅
Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
I'd suggest that a wiring loom isn't the best mount point for a device which tends to vibrate a lot when in use..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
25th Jan 2023 10:04 pm
nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4146
Unless you’ve put some rubber (or other damping material) underneath it it will wear away at the surface underneath every time you use it, will be pretty noisy too! I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
25th Jan 2023 10:41 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Ah yeah good point I didn’t try it stupidly
I did put plastic around the wires before zip tying
It’s bolted on top of the rubber grommet where the rust can be seen. I presumed the rubber would dampen the noise
I’ll remove it from the wiring as that I knew was stupid in the back on of my mind (duh) and I’ll probably drill a new bolt fixture so it’s securely fixed to the body. I’ll make a thick rubber plate to go under it also if it’s too noisy
Is this how people usually fit them? I’be had a comment on fb of it being better to have loose and use the power cable to reach the tyres. But I was hoping for it to be fixed to the car with a short plug and a long air hose? Or is this bad for the unit to power a long coil hose?
Maybe a complete waste of time 😅Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
25th Jan 2023 11:35 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
Re: Tyre pump install quick and cheap
cmb2020 wrote:
Camel pump off eBay £25 lifetime warranty 150psi.
Yeahhhh
Lifetime of a mosquito maybe?
Never believe a chinese seller these days..
You may end up with 50quid shipping costs first (carry in) and then hear it is your own fault, OR shipping a new one is shipping costs for you (another 50 quid then)
Or worse…. Having to air up again and it stops completely, double or triple costs then
I suppose you get what you paid for….. not a lot
But, i can be wrong Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
26th Jan 2023 12:22 pm
Lightwater
Member Since: 22 Oct 2018
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 96
If you have to air up 4 tyres compressors get extremely hot. Over 100°C, if you haven't got rubber airline do the first 0.5m in braided stainless hose. In a compressor comparison test the ARB got to 130°C. Add a computer fan to get some additional air cooling.
Cooling fan on the right, also additional heatsinks.
What is the duty cycle of the compressor. Most are too optimistic & should have a lower duty cycle.
The compressor is working at about 7 times atmospheric pressure, so any moisture in the air will go into the tyres. So about 7 times the water.
An after cooler will condense the moisture, can also pop it in the fridge for even better performance, & moisture trap will remove the water.
Click image to enlarge
An air tank will also condense some water while it is cold, so that is handy as well. Make sure you can drain the tank easily.
The ARB graph shows volume vs pressure.
Most manufacturers give you 2 figures. Maximum PSI at no volume & maximum CFM or litres at zero pressure. Both are meaningless.
Member Since: 22 Oct 2018
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 96
cmb2020 wrote:
had a comment on fb of it being better to have loose and use the power cable to reach the tyres. But I was hoping for it to be fixed to the car with a short plug and a long air hose? Or is this bad for the unit to power a long coil hose?
They use about 30amps so better to have short wiring run or use heavier gauge wire.
A rough rule of thumb is for every metre of airline & every connector reduce the compressor's output by 1%.
My 3 compressors (pressure switch 135PSI) will maintain about 115PSI according to the moisture trap pressure gauge pushing air through the tyre valve. Inflating from 20PSI to 35PSI 255/60r18 in 28 seconds. So for 4 tyres only about 2 minutes of run time. Takes longer taking off the TPMS!Visitor - Freelander owner
28th Jan 2023 12:13 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
Mine sits in the 'spare' battery compartment just forward of the master cylinder. Easy to get to, and can be moved elsewhere if needed for another task.Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
28th Jan 2023 12:20 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
Quote:
sits in the 'spare' battery compartment
good option indeed, BUT most of us will have a spare battery there installed and space is otherwise thight in the engine compartment, apart from the heat... comperessors need to cool instead of heated up
so i understand the rear mount option, as i have done myself... my ARB twin cyl. is under the rear floor (i have converted it to a commercial model, no rearseats (for now)Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
28th Jan 2023 12:41 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
'MOST' is a pretty strong statement!Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
28th Jan 2023 12:46 pm
Lightwater
Member Since: 22 Oct 2018
Location: Sydney NB
Posts: 96
Motolab wrote:
comperessors need to cool instead of heated up
Engine bay is the wrong place for compressors. You want the compressor to start cool. In the Freelander 2 of my 3 are under the seat, in front of the air conditioning duct, so I can pre cool them.
I have also added heatsinks internally on the ARB compressor to remove heat any way possible. The external heatsinks have thermal paste.
After 5 minutes of the compressor running I can hold the air outlet without burning my fingers.Visitor - Freelander owner
28th Jan 2023 1:07 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1815
waterbuoy wrote:
'MOST' is a pretty strong statement!
in itself, yes...
but i think "most"of us (discovery 3/4 owners) _ interested in a compressor for air up or other use
will have a auxillary battery, educated guess...
there will be exeptions Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
28th Jan 2023 3:10 pm
loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 600
Lightwater wrote:
Motolab wrote:
comperessors need to cool instead of heated up
Engine bay is the wrong place for compressors. You want the compressor to start cool. In the Freelander 2 of my 3 are under the seat, in front of the air conditioning duct, so I can pre cool them.
I have also added heatsinks internally on the ARB compressor to remove heat any way possible. The external heatsinks have thermal paste.
After 5 minutes of the compressor running I can hold the air outlet without burning my fingers.
The D3 aux compartment is actually quite well insulated from engine heat, my 85ah AGM has been sitting there for 5 years without issue.
29th Jan 2023 12:17 am
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2862
So has my compressor - for about 8 years - and in addition to re-inflating tyres it is used regularly for four months of the year to pump up inflatable boats when we do river surveys!Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
