Member Since: 24 Oct 2017
Location: Midlands
Posts: 106
Using IID Tool - Do I NEED a CTEK/battery charger??
People of knowledge - I need your wisdom please.
Just bought an IID tool thats coming tomorrow - Reading the instructions, it says that I should connect a CTEK (or similar) to ensure my battery doesn't die whilst changing stuff.
Honest opinions: Do I really need one of these? They're not cheap, but I'm happy to purchase one if it's really necessary. If I'm just editing CCF's etc, can it REALLY drain the battery that quickly?
And if so, whats the best, but cheapest thing that'll do the job?
Any recommendations/knowledge would be appreciated.
Cheers.1964 SIIA - Gone but not forgotten
1971 Range Rover Hybrid - Sold to a braver man than I
1987 Defender 90 - Written off
1990 Range Rover Classic - Rusted to bits/death trap
2010 Discovery 4 - Current WIP
9th Oct 2018 2:09 pm
grzesiul
Member Since: 11 May 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 6415
alst two mods I have done I did not have car connected to my CTEK and TBH last one was a bit scary as it lasted a few good minutes
next upgrade I am defo attaching battery to CTEK
They are good investment especially these days with AGM batteries
G
9th Oct 2018 2:12 pm
M4Rob1987
Member Since: 24 Oct 2017
Location: Midlands
Posts: 106
Forgive the potentially stupid question, but I don't understand how they (IID tools) can drain the battery so swiftly?
What exactly is it that drains the battery so quickly??1964 SIIA - Gone but not forgotten
1971 Range Rover Hybrid - Sold to a braver man than I
1987 Defender 90 - Written off
1990 Range Rover Classic - Rusted to bits/death trap
2010 Discovery 4 - Current WIP
9th Oct 2018 2:14 pm
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 589
It's not so much the iid tool itself but more the fact that whilst you are using it and playing through various menus etc the vehicle needs to be in the 'ignition on' position.. Therefore things like the fuel pump, all ecu's, turbo actuators etc are all draining the battery.. Along with the stereo head unit etc (which of course you will have turned off! )
Now the issue comes when you want to flash an ecu etc which can sometimes take 6/7 minutes or more.. During which time it is essential to have a stable voltage to a) ensure that the flash actually completes and b) its doesn't fail mid flash and leave you
Generally a good, charged battery is enough for most things.. But you have been warned!
Another option over a ctek is a spare battery connected via jump leads if you have one.
9th Oct 2018 2:21 pm
M4Rob1987
Member Since: 24 Oct 2017
Location: Midlands
Posts: 106
Ah, ok.
Yeah that all makes sense. Hadn't really thought of it like that.
So I can just connect another battery to my battery with my jump leads and it'll do the same job (sort of)?
Might be a cheaper method as all the CTEK's I can find are silly money.
Failing that, would one of these work: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maypole-MP716-Met...ry+charger1964 SIIA - Gone but not forgotten
1971 Range Rover Hybrid - Sold to a braver man than I
1987 Defender 90 - Written off
1990 Range Rover Classic - Rusted to bits/death trap
2010 Discovery 4 - Current WIP
9th Oct 2018 2:24 pm
Erea
Member Since: 19 Mar 2012
Location: Munster
Posts: 1509
The IID itself doesn’t use much power BUT time your self playing for a minute or two with it.... 10-15 minutes with the ignition on uses a lot of battery life. Doing updates take time and a lot of battery. It’s been a while since I did any but normally I’d do a CCF update without connecting any thing. But for the BCM I used jump leads to a running tractor (Ford 7810) and every thing worked fine.
9th Oct 2018 2:28 pm
DrewLR4
Member Since: 17 Jan 2018
Location: South Devon
Posts: 173
Not sure if the battery jump starters you can get now that pack quite a punch would also do the same as a spare battery and jump leads. May be a worthwhile investment as they are so small they will just tuck into one of the stowage compartments in the boot so you never get caught out with a flat battery miles from home.IID Tool
Disco 1 tdi traded up
Disco 1 V8 LPG traded up
RR P38 V8 LPG Melted
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Shocking amount of mid life crisis sports cars.
X5 - Bad decision
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Crisis over and back in a Disco
9th Oct 2018 2:31 pm
Kilovolt
Member Since: 29 Jun 2015
Location: South Derbyshire
Posts: 1079
M4Rob1987 wrote:
Might be a cheaper method as all the CTEK's I can find are silly money.
Just bought a new CTEK from Halfrauds using a trade card which made the price very palatable I am sure it knocked £15 or so off the price.
If you have a card, or know someone who will order it then it is the best price I could find on the internet.
Cheers."Track day running - Don't put your foot back on the accelerator until your absolutely sure you don't have to take it off again"
Current Ride: D4 XS Commercial Baltic Blue SDV6 fully loaded with heated everything
Track Days: BMW E36 M3 Evolution MY 1996 (3.2 Litre 377 BHP sat in 1,250 Kgs of car, with a pro safety cage and some serious braking power)
9th Oct 2018 3:40 pm
M4Rob1987
Member Since: 24 Oct 2017
Location: Midlands
Posts: 106
Well, it arrived this morning, updated lots of stuff and the car still works! So thats a bonus!
Cheers for all the advice!
Rob1964 SIIA - Gone but not forgotten
1971 Range Rover Hybrid - Sold to a braver man than I
1987 Defender 90 - Written off
1990 Range Rover Classic - Rusted to bits/death trap
2010 Discovery 4 - Current WIP
10th Oct 2018 10:13 am
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 589
Good news 👍 Always nice when something goes right! 😂
10th Oct 2018 10:17 am
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73121
Has my IID for almost 3 years and never hooked the car up to a charger or other running car when using it. I generally make sure the car has been used on a long run, or bung a charger (that doesn’t have supply mode) on it overnight.
Haven’t bricked the car, yet.
10th Oct 2018 10:23 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8243
M4Rob1987 wrote:
Well, it arrived this morning, updated lots of stuff and the car still works! So thats a bonus!
Cheers for all the advice!
Rob
Good, but this is exactly what happens, you have got a new tool and understandably want to use it, don’t be greedy and play with it to much in one session or as sure as eggs are eggs you’ll have a flat battery.The maximum a D3 will go with just the engine switched on is 15 minutes, D4 a little longer.
The Iid tool will check the battery voltage before any re-flash is done and if there is insufficient power in it will abort, there is also a permanent voltage display in the top corner of the tool, you’ll still need sufficient power to start the car when you’ve done.
Do not use a battery charger of any type while re-flashing.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
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)
I am sure it knocked £15 or so off the price.
