I don't want a block that's spun a main bearing (got one of those)
I don't want a block that's snapped a crankshaft (mainly because of unseen damage to the block)
I'll consider blocks that may have been knocking from a big end bearing, and doesn't have much cylinder damage - or is hone-able (that even a word?), or ones from snapped timing belts. Open to suggestions.
It can be a bare block, or short block - i'll even consider a full engine! Just needs to be something I can use.
I'm local to South Staffordshire / North Wolverhampton
Delivery would be great - but I realise difficult due to size/weight!
Or could possibly collect depending on distance - but I will be reliant on others.
If all else fails i'll have to go the jag engine route - but would like to try this route first.2008 Disco 3 HSE TDV6 - Gone
2001 Disco 2 V8 - Gone
Other non-LR cars and motorbikes.
7th Aug 2020 8:37 pm
galwaygreen
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
look for s type jag..scrap car ,,take engine.........or LR rebuild
7th Aug 2020 10:47 pm
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1471
Have you measured the main bearing housing that spun a bearing?
The bearings are usually a softer metal than the housing and there may possibly be little or no damage to the housing.
Take the block with the mains caps to a good engineering shop and ask them to measure the housing against the other 'good' housing, you may be lucky that it is within tolerance.
Also if you can get hold of tabbed bearings, that may also help.
8th Aug 2020 2:06 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5044
He's done the measuring / looking bit, and it's kaput! A replacement block is the only practical way out now. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
8th Aug 2020 3:07 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
I will have one at some point in the not too distant future My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
defector wrote:
The bearings are usually a softer metal than the housing and there may possibly be little or no damage to the housing.
Are you sure? Outer shell is plain steel... on cast iron crankcase
If it spins, there is damage straight away..
defector wrote:
you may be lucky that it is within tolerance.
The bearing relies on the tension after fitting... so if there is the slightest metal removed,the issue becomes only bigger
defector wrote:
Also if you can get hold of tabbed bearings, that may also help.
Is see this mentioned rather often, but nobody can produce a working Direct link where to buy them..(at least what i read here)
But eitherway
As profsr G said, topic owners crankcase is beyond repair, (within normal limits)Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
8th Aug 2020 7:27 am
cobby
Member Since: 05 Aug 2018
Location: Oxfordshire
Posts: 229
I have a Jaguar S type for sale, reduced to £1500 with a very good engine in it if of any interest.
The sump will need to be changed over from your current expired engine.
Rest of car in very good condition so could be broken for parts.
PM me if you need to discuss.
Cobby.
8th Aug 2020 8:27 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
S-type is as a base a very good usable alternative!! , BUT...
in work load/parts... there is more involved, than "just" the sump... (been there, studied it, know now)
first:
The JAG S-type engine (although named EU4) is an ideal engine for the EU3 engined Land rover's
as Jaguar had a different approach to the EU4 rulings as LR, they (JAG) did it with the same HP fuel pump and rails as LR did for the EU3..
SO... the LR EU4 had a different HPFP and rails than the JAG of the same period..
TO, has at least a EU4 spec engine as it is 2009
second:
starter, dynamo, airconpump, PAS pump, mountings, tensioners, primary pully, etc. everthing is different in a JAG
so if you want less work and there fore also a cheaper replacement (no extra gaskets and brakedown chanche on parts) look for a later JAG engine (end 2008 or later) i myself did go for low milage, so also the benifits of the low milage HPFP therefore, etc.
This offering although is maybe (also) very interesting for one of the EU3 engined Disco's here (if they need a "new" engine) milage would be interesting to know for them althoughBest regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
8th Aug 2020 9:16 am
jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 769
Quote:
Are you sure? Outer shell is plain steel... on cast iron crankcase
If it spins, there is damage straight away..
Agree 100% with that, and when buying any used block would be my main concern, i would measure all the main housings and the cylinders to see if in spec.
8th Aug 2020 9:39 am
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 873
I’ve got a full working disco for sale
Jct 10 M6 Can see the car running too probably be Near the same cost as Buying just the engineMetal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
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