Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 232
Guessing that’s what I need if I decide to make it remote
8th Jul 2024 2:13 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 415
Yes, that's the sort of thing you want. It looks much superior to my one which I bought in December for £90 including postage and VAT.
Click image to enlarge
Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
8th Jul 2024 2:35 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 415
Cheeko wrote:
Well hopefully that’s one less thing to think about 60s in started smoking 80s in stopped smoking was still running 😂😱 Thankyou very much for your help hopefully winter I won’t have a problem might go buy some spray for sake of £8 to test it properly Thankyou
Not so fast! You need it to be able to run right to the end of the 300 second test cycle.
When it starts up, the glow plug starts to heat up, then after about 20 seconds the fan starts up then at about 45 seconds fuel starts to flow and it should ignite. If a flame is detected, then the fuel continues to flow but if no flame, the fuel flow stops. The fan continues to run to purge the burn chamber and allow the burner to cool down. If you listen to it you can hear each stage in the cycle including the change from fan only to fan + combustion. Quite often that extra combustion noise drops out after 30-40 seconds, indicating that flame-detection has failed.
If it stopped smoking at 80s, that could be because it is very clean burning or because it has stopped burning and is on the fan-on, purge cycle. My FBH does burn clean, which can make knowing whether it is running or not difficult, but when I got the car at first I had to run the GAP-IID test cycle a number of times before it would run right through to the full 300 seconds, before that it would stop early.
If you use the GAP "Live Values" option you can choose to display the coolant temperature at the FBH and at the engine. This allows you to check that the FBH is indeed warming the coolant, as the coolant temperature at the FBH will rise faster than at the engine - if the FBH is working!Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
8th Jul 2024 2:57 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 232
Gap went to 300 then it said test complete or test successful I know it was working though the 300 countdown because I burnt my hand checking to see if it was running 😂😂
8th Jul 2024 4:06 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 232
Oh and fan kicked in full speed
8th Jul 2024 4:07 pm
Worms
Member Since: 24 Sep 2023
Location: Highlands
Posts: 415
Oh, that's good!
Go for that remote. You'll not regret it! It means that you control when it runs, rather than when the D3 decides that there is the correct alignment of the planets!Previously:
2010 FL2 TD4e GS
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW - still got this, non-runner on SORN.
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel
8th Jul 2024 4:11 pm
Cheeko
Member Since: 04 Jul 2024
Location: Leeds
Posts: 232
Worms I will but in due time I’ve got a gearbox problem think it’s torque converter and it’s due mot in 40 days if she passes I might treat her 😂😂 but Thankyou for your input it’s been a great help
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