Member Since: 21 May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 7
Anything to look out for?
Hi everyone,
I'm off to view a 2016 Landmark with 66k miles at the weekend. It's already reserved but I'm wondering if there's anything I should specifically check?
It's at a main dealer, 1 owner, full LR service history, part of the 'LR approved used' scheme and most recently served this month.
All I've got so far is to confirm the service history is as described and check the tyres treads. Did note it's on bridgestone turanza t005 - I don't think this is an issue (?)
Grateful for any advice as this will be the first time I even get in a Land Rover, let alone drive one .
Click image to enlarge
21st May 2021 7:50 am
RogB
Member Since: 15 Jun 2018
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 1651
press and play with every button in there multiple times,
make sure the suspension goes up and down as it should,
all the windows work ok,
the sunroof works ok (check for signs of water leaks on carpets and A/B pillars)
change it through all the off road settings and switch it between lo and hi range and drive it at least a few
metres back and forward if you can.
check for uneven tyre wear and check the spare is there with all the tools.
and basically any other checks you would do for any car.
if youve never been/sat in a Disco your in for a treat and buying approved you at least have the benefit of a dealer backed warranty for a year.2011 D4 XS 305 MY12 - gone but not forgotten
21st May 2021 7:55 am
nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4144
Drive it close to a wall to check the parking sensors work (front and back), and if you do buy it take it round to your local indie for them to give it a good check over to pick up all the bits a main dealer had missed... and then get them done under warranty I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
21st May 2021 9:06 am
Kilovolt
Member Since: 29 Jun 2015
Location: South Derbyshire
Posts: 1020
Make sure the gearbox goes in and out of low range.
Put it in low range and drive 50 metres forward, then 50 metres back.
If you are note yet sure how to do this, get the salesman to show you how.
(Oops RogB got that one above) "Track day running - Don't put your foot back on the accelerator until your absolutely sure you don't have to take it off again"
Current Ride: D4 XS Commercial Baltic Blue SDV6 fully loaded with heated everything
Track Days: BMW E36 M3 Evolution MY 1996 (3.2 Litre 377 BHP sat in 1,250 Kgs of car, with a pro safety cage and some serious braking power)
21st May 2021 9:28 am
tle
Member Since: 21 May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 7
Thanks that's a good list to go through. It's going to be a long morning with the salesman to go through every single feature!
nigethecat wrote:
Drive it close to a wall to check the parking sensors work (front and back), and if you do buy it take it round to your local indie for them to give it a good check over to pick up all the bits a main dealer had missed... and then get them done under warranty
Love this idea, will definitely be doing that!!
21st May 2021 9:39 am
Gary_P
Member Since: 03 May 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 1521
Faults on mine , which is of similar age and just under 40k miles:
1. Rear Prop shaft centre bearing - rubber was split meaning rear prop shaft had to be replaced -suggest checking or getting them to confirm no splits (not even small ones). There have been quite a few reports of this happening , including cars that have done less than 30k miles.
2. Both batteries replaced. Check stop/start is working when engine is warm which is a good indicator or battery condition and ask whether original batteries or when last replaced. These cars are heavy on batteries , many need replacing at less than 5 years and battery issues cause many spurious faults.
3. Sunroof drains- check for damp carpets in passenger and driver footwells. Get the removable carpets up to check this.
4. Gear ring indicator - light around gear knob (dial). Mine has packed up. Supposed to have a green ring around it. Shade it, and check it’s working.
When/if you do get it , it’s worth securing the front and rear lights as they can get stolen on a model this age.
Good luck.
CheersGary
-------------------------------------------
Most importantly as NigelTheCat has said get the car very carefully checked all over by a LR specialist indy. If you don't know one ask here for recommendations.
NJSSAm I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
Last edited by NJSS on 21st May 2021 9:58 am. Edited 1 time in total
21st May 2021 9:54 am
Kilovolt
Member Since: 29 Jun 2015
Location: South Derbyshire
Posts: 1020
Well that lot should just about putting the poor chap off buying it "Track day running - Don't put your foot back on the accelerator until your absolutely sure you don't have to take it off again"
Current Ride: D4 XS Commercial Baltic Blue SDV6 fully loaded with heated everything
Track Days: BMW E36 M3 Evolution MY 1996 (3.2 Litre 377 BHP sat in 1,250 Kgs of car, with a pro safety cage and some serious braking power)
21st May 2021 9:56 am
RogB
Member Since: 15 Jun 2018
Location: Mansfield
Posts: 1651
and dont be surprised if the salesman knows absolutely nothing about the features on the car
one at Gordon Lamb LR Chesterfield once tried to sell me a FL2 GS model on the basis that it had side steps and tinted rear windows. When asked about the headlights being xenon or halogen he had no idea, when asked about the lack of satnav he told me it could easily be retrofitted as it was just a screen. 2011 D4 XS 305 MY12 - gone but not forgotten
21st May 2021 10:26 am
riverblanche
Member Since: 31 Aug 2010
Location: retford'ish
Posts: 2210
Hi,
Check behind the rear tow cover plate to see if it has tow electrics fitted and it it does ask where the removable towbar is
Ask which insurance company operates the Approved Warranty now?
Was never L/R the manufacturer and not sure who it is now.
Road test for at least an hour, you start to get used to it by then, it's not all just new to you and you can pay attention to any noises or cluncks
Check wbac for its price as there Very strong at the mo
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2572
Same age / spec as mine, but I'm ahead by about 20k miles.
I'd add the following to the check list:
Rad top hose has a habit of rubbing against engine cover - check for cut in pipe
Check RSE works - particularly driver side as cable can catch / cut under seat
At 66k it could be close to needing front pads and possibly discs (may already be done), and 2nd set of rear pads - which may mean discs as well. Obviously these are just wear items, but it's as well to know.
Mine also killed its rear prop shaft (replaced under warranty) - seems to be a habit on newer D4's that I never suffered with any predecessors.
Other than those, mine's been fantastic - and as said, currently appreciating Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
21st May 2021 6:11 pm
hgrimmett
Member Since: 11 Oct 2009
Location: Bledlow
Posts: 901
Biggest shock for me when buying from LR was the suggestion that the Approved LR warranty doesn't cover crankshaft/engine failure, as it's a 'known issue'!! Budget for a third party warranty - WD, if they're still worth it after they got bought out!
And given the inevitable rust issues, I'm not sure I'd do another Disco with side steps bit I guess that's up to how long you keep it.
But there's not another car like them and I'd not be without ours....-------------------------------------------------------------------
D4 '15 (64) Se Tech Indus Silver
Tesla Model Y LR (22)
Audi TT Roadster 225 (52)
Tesla Model 3 LR (70) (gone)
Porsche Boxster '96 2.5 5spd project (P)
Mini R52 S (54)
BMW 330e eDrive MSport '16 (gone)
D3 '07 (56) XS TDV6 Buckingham Blue (gone)
21st May 2021 9:14 pm
Scott #55
Member Since: 15 Apr 2015
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1664
All I can add is that I’m jealous. My MY10 HSE is still the best (and best-looking car) I’ve ever had, to the extent that I’m already getting excited about SWMBO and my 200 mile trip to Liverpool next weekend. Although coloured slightly by the fact tha5 it’s just us two and leaving the kids at home.2014 - D4 2010 HSE Nara Bronze
2012 - FL2 2009 GS Stornoway Grey
2001 - VW Passat Estate Inky Blue
1999 - Ford Mondeo Light Blue
1998 - Rover 25 Red
21st May 2021 9:53 pm
tle
Member Since: 21 May 2021
Location: London
Posts: 7
It did however cover over 53k miles in the first 3 years before MOT so I'll be interested in knowing that it was kept to 16k miles service schedule.
NJSS wrote:
Most importantly as NigelTheCat has said get the car very carefully checked all over by a LR specialist indy. If you don't know one ask here for recommendations.
NJSS
Langley 4x4 is pretty local to me and seems to be rated high, will take it here unless there is a better recommendation.
hgrimmett wrote:
Biggest shock for me when buying from LR was the suggestion that the Approved LR warranty doesn't cover crankshaft/engine failure, as it's a 'known issue'!! Budget for a third party warranty - WD, if they're still worth it after they got bought out!
Agreed I'd heard that, hence me wanting a D4 that is beyond reproach servicing-wise in case I am an unlucky one so there is some kind of comeback to LR.
Thanks again so much for the advice on this - Here's the list as it stands..
Faults on mine , which is of similar age and just under 40k miles:
1. Rear Prop shaft centre bearing - rubber was split meaning rear prop shaft had to be replaced -suggest checking or getting them to confirm no splits (not even small ones). There have been quite a few reports of this happening , including cars that have done less than 30k miles.
2. Both batteries replaced. Check stop/start is working when engine is warm which is a good indicator or battery condition and ask whether original batteries or when last replaced. These cars are heavy on batteries , many need replacing at less than 5 years and battery issues cause many spurious faults.
3. Sunroof drains- check for damp carpets in passenger and driver footwells. Get the removable carpets up to check this.
4. Gear ring indicator - light around gear knob (dial). Mine has packed up. Supposed to have a green ring around it. Shade it, and check it’s working.
When/if you do get it , it’s worth securing the front and rear lights as they can get stolen on a model this age.
Good luck.
Cheers
My used approved LR Dealer Landrover as a 66 plate also had the rear prop knackered, the gear selector illumination was defunct. start stop didn't work. Something to do with a gateway switch. Bump it over some aggressive speed bumps. Both my lower arms were shot. Petrol release cap didn't work.
This was at 71K
Cheer n Gone Nick
Cheers n Gone NickMY16 D4 Landmark SDV6 (The Ice Maiden)
Uncle Ray's spare wheel protector
MY08 D3 HSE Stornoway (Miss Moneypit) The money tree withered......
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