Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
CROSS OVER PIPE REMOVAL THREAD DIY.
HI D3/D4
After taking on the task of replacing the crossoverpipe on my 2006 D3 TDV6 2.7 i hope i can share the sequence of operation backed up with some photos, some tools used and some area's of caution.
It must be said that i am not a qualified mechanic but have a gained reasonable mechanical skill over the last 25 years from repairing and restoring my own vehicle's.
i hope the D3 community will join in on this thread and add any good input they can.
The pro mechanics would recommend full body removal to replace the crossoverpipe and i fully understand as this is a far less awkward way of doing this, and exposes the COP fully but was not an option for me due to cost and the fact that it sounded a bit extreame. also gearbox removal is an option.
Fortunately in my case i had somewhere i could do the work without a time limit.
The basic strip down to expose the COP is fairly straight forward, the main thing to be aware of is that you do not damage the COP MANIFOLD BOLTS as this will make it extremely hard to remove without body removal.
21st Aug 2014 7:23 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
so to begin with in my case i put the front end of my D3 up on axel stands and removed the front wheel, if you have acces to a car ramp this will make the job far easier as you wont be lying on your back and working with your arm at full length in to the underside of engine while trying to keep your head up!
21st Aug 2014 7:27 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Now open the bonnet and have a look around the battery tray and down the side of the battery tray at the EGR and cooler. Also around the near side wheel arch, its good to familiarize you self with placement of the components.
Last edited by Trex-on on 21st Aug 2014 11:54 pm. Edited 1 time in total
21st Aug 2014 7:33 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
We now need to remove the engine and transmission undershield,a total of 16 bolts... its always a good idea to spray a lubricants to most bolts, nuts where possible prior to removal.
once the undershields are removes you will be able to see the crossoverpipe and where it connects to the manifold on both sides, you will also notice the manifold heat shields.
if you start the engine,you will now be able to put your hand up around the gearbox and feel for where the break is in the crossover pipes, you can locate where the center of the crossoverpipe fixing bracket is, there are 4 bolts holding it to the top of the gearbox. Make sure the vehicle is in Neautral before starting.
next, we will get on with removing the battery tray EGR and cooler then the heat shields, but first i will add a few photos of parts to be removed for reference. Pictures speak volumes!
Last edited by Trex-on on 29th Aug 2014 8:45 pm. Edited 2 times in total
21st Aug 2014 11:36 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Picture of my D3 i done the repair on.
23rd Aug 2014 9:16 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Looking forward to more on this thread, think my COP's blowing
23rd Aug 2014 9:49 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Bonnet up!
Engine under shield.
Transmission under shield.
23rd Aug 2014 10:16 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
dsd1036 wrote:
Looking forward to more on this thread, think my COP's blowing
keep posted i hope to have most of it done this weekend now iv found photos!
23rd Aug 2014 10:18 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Remove the oil filler cap and pop the engine cover off, this is held on with 4 rubber grommets and only requires a pull to remove.
Now we need to remove the battery cover and disconnect the batter. Then remove the battery and and disconnect the wiring loom plug within the battery box.
Remove the battery box, this is clipped together and held in with a couple bolts.
here are the parts you will have remove.
now that we have the battery box removed it has has helped to expose the EGR valve and cooler.
Click image to enlarge
you will notice that in the first EGR and cooler picture it is blanked off and in the second it has the outlet pipe. Remove the EGR outlet pipe by removing the clamp at the air shut of valve and the bracket securing the pipe then the two bolts at the EGR cooler and remove. you should replace the gaskets.
It helps to put a rag under under the EGR and cooler to catch anything that may get dropped, though remember to remove it once your done.
Disconnect the wiring loom from the EGR, then undo the bracket holding the fuel hoses to allow some play.
Using a pipe clamp or a set of fine toothed vice grips, clamp the coolant outlet pipe going to the back top of the cooler and remove from the cooler using a remote hose clip remover.
Remove the clamp supporting the back of the cooler.
to allow access to the EGR inlet pipe right at the back, remove the clamp and check the pipe has seperated.
Last edited by Trex-on on 28th Aug 2014 9:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total
24th Aug 2014 12:22 am
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Next you will need to work through the wheel arch to get to the EGR coolent inlet hose on the underside. You will need to remove the exhaust heat shields within the arch area.
after removing the heat shield at the top of the strut you will have enough room to feed the automatic hose clip remover on to the clip locking it in place to allow you to remove the coolant inlet hose, clamp or push this up out of the way.
24th Aug 2014 1:06 am
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Undo the bolts holding the dipstick tube bracket and reposition. Then remove 3 bolts holding the EGR and cooler to the cylinder head, one bolt is tight to get out as it hits the exhaust but with some manoeuvring you will be able to remove the EGR and cooler. once the EGR and cooler is removed then remove the EGR inlet manifold.
24th Aug 2014 1:29 am
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Now we have removed the EGR and cooler we have access to the near side crossoverpipe manifold and manifold heat shield. Remove the heat shield to allowing access to the top manifold bolt.
24th Aug 2014 1:39 am
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
As you were removing the crossoverpipe manifold heat shield you will also notice heat shield's going down body past the turbo to the underside of the body above the exhaust.
loosen the bolts on these.
Remove the heat shields you can, the others you will be able to tuck away to allow more hand space and also room for your tool to travel when shifting the bolts on the COP manifold.
next loosen any remaining heat shields in wheel arch.
The near side Cross over pipe will be fully expossed now.
26th Aug 2014 12:46 am
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
The far side or Drivers side crossoverpipe manifold will now need the heat shield removed. unbolt this working from the underside of the vehicle.
26th Aug 2014 12:59 am
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Both crossoverpipe manifolds will now be fully exposed and ready to unbolt.
There are 3 bolts on each manifolds and 4 bolts holding the centre sections mounting bracket.
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