Member Since: 02 May 2021
Location: CAMBERLEY
Posts: 7
Discovery 3 L319 Diesel starts then stops
Hello people of the internet I have a Disco 3 the problem I'm having it it starts then stops after 2-3 seconds and I can hear the flap in the NS exhaust clicking and the coil light flashing. From what I can work out it its losing power to the ECU But when the ECU is on it says the battery voltage as 11.7V for some reason and has error codes P0562,P0A09,P1136. All the ECU pins are good and no signs of water but the passenger foot well is wet and all the earth points look good
I have been reading for days ! person sent the car to LR and reflashed the ECU to fix it, and the other scrapped the car.
Thank you for your help I am at a complete loss with this one
All the best
Marcus
2nd May 2021 1:02 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4570
Hi and welcome.
11.7v is way too low and if that's the battery reading you are reading then it's dead!
You may have an alternator issue but for now charge it fully, you want to see a voltage above 12.5 volts at least. Also check the earth straps carefully (all of them), and also for good measure the positive cable from the battery to the starter where it runs under the front of the engine.
Sometimes it can foul on the front diff wearing through the sheath and causing a dead short!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
2nd May 2021 2:22 pm
Marcus18
Member Since: 02 May 2021
Location: CAMBERLEY
Posts: 7
Thanks for the quick answer
I have tried running the car with jump leads + on the battery and - on the engine and didn't make any difference
I had a vauxhall where it all looked ok but negative strap to engine had a break in the copper that only was apparent at cranking current..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
2nd May 2021 2:56 pm
Marcus18
Member Since: 02 May 2021
Location: CAMBERLEY
Posts: 7
No earth straps are all good, all the pins on the ECU are good no signs of water and had a look inside the ECU and its nice and dry and no skid marks
2nd May 2021 3:15 pm
Marcus18
Member Since: 02 May 2021
Location: CAMBERLEY
Posts: 7
I have made a video of the car playing about
after the 6 clicks the engine is dead but you take the keys out and wait for about 1 minute you can do it all again
I'm starting to think it could be the ECU but I could do with some help
Marcus
3rd May 2021 4:45 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10328
It wouldn't surprise me if that's a dash fault. Some later ones have solder issues inside.
They can be sent away for test/repair
Otherwise maybe a CAN fault elsewhere on the car
3rd May 2021 4:55 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2459
The dash shouldnt be an issue on a 2006 but it would be worth investigating the canbusAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
3rd May 2021 6:25 pm
Marcus18
Member Since: 02 May 2021
Location: CAMBERLEY
Posts: 7
hello
I was thinking if it was a dash solder fault it would be intermittent go over a bump and it stops give it a bash and it works again
But I know nothing about the can system but would think it would come up with better fault codes
All the best and thanks for your help
Marcus
3rd May 2021 7:04 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 760
what battery have you got fitted im going to guess at exide,see if you can get another batt to try had a very similar thing on my d3 last summer turned out to be a fully charged duff battery think it had a damaged connection between the cellsplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
3rd May 2021 9:05 pm
Marcus18
Member Since: 02 May 2021
Location: CAMBERLEY
Posts: 7
I think it is an exide but have been running the car with jump leads + on the battery and - on the engine because I have had the diagnostic scanner plugged the ignition on and starting it over and over so jump leads are keeping the battery topped up to about 14V
All the best
Marcus
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
3rd May 2021 9:48 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 158
Hi Marcus,
Sorry to jump in this topic, since I actually know nothing about anything that could be happening with your D3 (I am sorry for that) but, two things I have learned here in this forum:
1 - D3's are very (very)(I cannot stress enough very) sensitive to any electronic faults. I remember some people telling stories that LED bulbs make the ECU goes bazirca nuts and trow all sorts of error codes from suspension to MIL. and many other cases.
2 - if more than one person here mentioned/suggested something could be a problem/solution, it is definitely worth at least a try. (just saying)
Perhaps, just for the sake of proving everyone is wrong, you could try to get a new battery (perhaps borrow a good one for a spin). I have no clue how the battery voltage is measured by the ECU, I am sure some clever magic electronics would do the trick), one thing I know, if my bat goes bellow 13V. I started getting suspension fault.
Have you measure the voltage on your batt with a multimeter, before start and during start? What is the voltage showing?
Perhaps running jump cables from batt to engine earth through a bad batt might make ECU goes nuts as per usual D3 temper. Just saying.
3rd May 2021 10:11 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4570
Water in the passenger foot well needs to be investigated to see if the CJB is affected. (wet cabin filter is an indicator)
In any case, and as has already been said, you need to rectify/eliminate any battery power supply issues otherwise you'll be chasing your tail!
Voltage at the battery terminals on cold start up should be above 14.5v eventually settling back as the engine warms to nothing less than 13.7v or above. You simply have to get this bit right before you progress through the problem.
Power from another vehicle is most definitely not the way, especially with these power hungry yet extremely sensitive electrical systems. Also, your immobilizer is active even though the ign is on!!!
This too points towards battery power issues, water ingress, or both. Either way, it will not start if the immobiliser is active.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
4th May 2021 1:31 am
Marcus18
Member Since: 02 May 2021
Location: CAMBERLEY
Posts: 7
Well people you all said power But at the end of the day it was a bad ECU had LLB Automotive in farnham fitted me a second hand ECU and all is good and now runs like a dream
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