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pasales
Member Since: 19 Apr 2017
Location: wigan
Posts: 12
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EGR valve motor replacement |
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Hi Everyone
I hope someone can help.
I have been changing the intake manifold on 2010 Discovery, and after 3 days fiddling, I put it all back together and its leaking oil from the back of the gasket (mustn't of got it on just right on install) so it will all have to come off again.
My issue though, is that I had to remove EGR valve motor to get fuel rail bracket out, and I just wondered if anybody knew if there is a certain way it goes back on, or do you just place it down and tighten up the 4 torx screws holding it there?
Many Thanks for any help
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25th Mar 2021 9:42 pm |
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Roversmith
Member Since: 20 Nov 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 10
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Just found your post I'm in the same boat just about to try again leaking oil.
Did you work out how to refit motor correctly. I noticed that when the engine is stopped and electronics settle down and stop whistling the motor makes a sneezing noise as if relaxing? May need calibration or fitting correctly?
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3rd May 2021 5:49 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10362
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those intake manifold gaskets are a pain for leaking at the back!
I don't know what the answer is sadly
It should be fairly easy to just fit the EGR
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3rd May 2021 5:53 pm |
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Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
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Re: EGR valve motor replacement |
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pasales wrote:Hi Everyone
I hope someone can help.
I have been changing the intake manifold on 2010 Discovery, and after 3 days fiddling, I put it all back together and its leaking oil from the back of the gasket (mustn't of got it on just right on install) so it will all have to come off again.
My issue though, is that I had to remove EGR valve motor to get fuel rail bracket out, and I just wondered if anybody knew if there is a certain way it goes back on, or do you just place it down and tighten up the 4 torx screws holding it there?
Many Thanks for any help
I hope I understood your question correctly. You did not removed your whole EGR, but rather only the black "motor" with the grey cap.... is that correct? If that is correct, the below may help.
I happened to have some EGR issues in the past. I was considering replace only the motor, or clean the thing first, but decided to change the whole thing. Sadly and expensively .
Coming back to your question:
- You should insert the motor slightly off-set rotated (don't remember which side) there should be only one way anyway since the motor has a spring rotation. It is kind of o locked to one side (EGR closed) It is that spring force that closes the EGR. Take the time the motor is off and spray some WD40 on the valve shaft and wiggle (rotating) the little bar inside... (it may prevent your EGR to stick open in the future)
- You then match the "double U" shaped insert from the motor to the "cross-pin" from the valve. Then fit and re-screw everything.
Tech for those wanting more info:
The reason is that the "motor" (not really a motor but rather a solenoid) has an integrated potentiometer to measure the position of the motor, therefore the amount the valve is open. The "motor" itself varies from 0% to 100% whereas when attached to mechanical part (valve itself), the movement is restricted from 5% to 95%. (I connected the motor only to engine and the ECU trows an error with exactly that message. I suppose the pin-"U" connection can fail, hence the specific error )
I hope it helps, let me know if it worked for you. If you need more info, I can make a video how to do it, just need some more time to prepare everything.
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3rd May 2021 6:25 pm |
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Roversmith
Member Since: 20 Nov 2018
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 10
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Thanks for the response. Think I follow? Will get back to you once I have completed the job .Thanks for taking the time.
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4th May 2021 11:23 am |
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pasales
Member Since: 19 Apr 2017
Location: wigan
Posts: 12
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Hi Roversmith
Intake manifold replacement was biggest job I had attempted, and of course I got it wrong first time. I don't know if this is good practise, but second time around I put a little sikaflex on the gasket and let it dry, just on the part of the gasket that I struggled with near the bulkhead.
With regards to EGR valve motor, Prette has covered it well. In my case, as you look at the little wheel (pinion?) on the end of the actual motor, it should sit in the bed? of the valve in the EGR. So look down and you will see the space for that wheel just of centre to the right as you look at it over drivers side wheel arch.
I turned my motor 90 degrees clockwise and dropped it in, and touch wood, it is all working so far and no leaks.
As a side note, after fixing the intake and being pretty happy with myself, I then got restricted mode at 2800 RPM, and codes P22D3-77 and P22CF-71 but after a quick look on this forum, a very useful post by Disco Mikey from a while ago put me in the direction of vacuum pipe problem, and sure enough it was.
So for now, the car is running great.
I only attempted this as I haven't been able to work since MArch 2020, and though it was time consuming, if I can do it I'm sure anyone can, and I also believe I have learnt a lot about the car on the way.
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4th May 2021 8:43 pm |
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