I’m wanting to immobilise as per previous threads. I got a fuel valve tap thing but it’s still a burden reaching underneath the car. So ideally I’d like a hidden switch somewhere inside.
Thanks In advanceDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
10th May 2021 6:55 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4570
No, it's totally over the top for what you need!
All you want to do is interrupt the positive to the lpfp for which a decent quality flick switch will suffice.
You can take it from the fuse box thus cutting the supply to the fuse. Then a bit of imaginative cable routing and hidden switch should be enough to delay any would be thief!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
10th May 2021 7:29 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hi I can’t see what ipfp means on Google in relation to the car. Am I right thinking you mean put a switch on the electrical control to fuel system?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
10th May 2021 7:37 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4570
Low Pressure Fuel Pump, its the pump in the fuel tank which feeds the High pressure (injector) pump !
You can put a switch on the electrical supply to this pump. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
10th May 2021 7:58 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Thanks!
Am I right in thinking it’s the black box 2nd down in fuse box, as is in this video?
Also do you have a brand / model of switch you recommend please?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
10th May 2021 8:04 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4570
You don't have to go via the relay, though you can if you wish. Remember, all you are doing is cutting a critical power feed wire. It can be on anything the car must have in order for it to start such as cam sensor, fuel pump, starter solenoid feed, etc etc.
The switch just needs to be 2 pole min, decent quality, capable of say 30A load and will fit/suit your intended hidden location. It can be flick type, rocker, push, etc doesn't really matter.
Work out what component/fuse you are going to intercept, it can be in either of the fuse compartments, or elsewhere! Then find the best/safest route from there to the intended switch location.
Keep it simple, and keep it hidden yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
Must be proper on/off, not momentary. I'd also avoid magnet operated unless you're 10000000% sure you won't knock the magnet.
Mustn't be where you could switch it and not realise..
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
10th May 2021 9:51 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Hi I’m not electronically minded to the stage where I’d know how / what cable to do.
By any chance could you send me a pic of one you’ve done previously please?
Or a video of someone that’s done successfully please?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
11th May 2021 9:13 am
Iguana
Member Since: 14 Oct 2013
Location: 'Sunny' Zomerset
Posts: 9402
Another option is to go to an Auto electrician and ask them to set one up for you, shouldn't be that expensive
I'm planning on adding a switch, possibly two to my old Defender this weekend, but much simpler with simpler electrics Iggy/Ieuan
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PROFSR G wrote:
No, it's totally over the top for what you need!
All you want to do is interrupt the positive to the lpfp for which a decent quality flick switch will suffice.
You can take it from the fuse box thus cutting the supply to the fuse. Then a bit of imaginative cable routing and hidden switch should be enough to delay any would be thief!
Hardly. The feed pump on the HPFP will comfortably allow you to drive at a reasonable clip with a light load with the LPFP completely dead. Sure not going to stop a car theif. If you want to do that, interrupt the +12V feed to the VCV/PCV pair.
11th May 2021 10:50 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4570
I have yet to see a D3/4 drive with a dead lpfp, although it might be possible there is enough residual fuel to get it moving, but it will die.
In any case he has plenty of other options.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th May 2021 1:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4570
cmb2020 wrote:
Hi I’m not electronically minded to the stage where I’d know how / what cable to do.
By any chance could you send me a pic of one you’ve done previously please?
Or a video of someone that’s done successfully please?
If you are in any doubt regarding fitting such a device then you are best served to have a professional
do it for you.
There is no room for mistakes here as the consequences could be dire! It's a small job and the cost of getting it done by a pro is minimal. The cost if you get it wrong though could spell the end of your D3!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
11th May 2021 1:24 pm
KevinD3
Member Since: 05 Aug 2020
Location: Sutton Coldfield
Posts: 1188
Having had my instrument cluster go bad and sent it away for repair has given me a thought.
Cluster isn’t powered up when car is asleep (I don’t think) and if a dry solder joint will prevent the car from starting, then would a switch that interrupts the power to the cluster work to prevent some toe rag using my keys to take the car? It’s also handily already in the dash so fitting the switch would be simple too.
Any thoughts anyone?2008 HSE Stornoway Grey
My Wife thinks the D3 is a hobby, The D3 thinks the wife is 💕
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