Member Since: 26 Jan 2018
Location: Burgas
Posts: 17
Ok, I went through the adjusting the brake pads and bedding procedure afterwards. Everythibg seems ok for now. Couple of points to have in mind.
1. On the video in tube I watched, the guys were tightening the notchy adjuster were tightening it the other way. So if You have come to a point that there is no way to tughten it up, but the wheel still rotates, try the opposite direction.
2. While trying to enter the bedding procedure (same happened to the guys on the video) it didn't happen the first time, but the 3rd or 4th. Just follow the entry steps.
Hope this helps. Cheerz!If U are not on the edge, U are takin too much space.
18th Aug 2020 12:23 pm
Dave InOz
Member Since: 29 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
IF YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE GEARS
I had to replace the gears inside the box as it had striped some of the teeth off. After watching and reading lots of ways of doing this, they all do it by removing the EPB box with cables attached, which is a very difficult and frustrating thing to do.
THERE IS NO NEED TO PULL THE EPB BOX OUT OF THE CAR.
You take the cover off, unscrew the left hand cable out and pull it out of the box. Unplug the electrics to the gearbox. Unscrew the gearbox and slide it out over the right hand side cable and remove it from the car to replace gears. EASY save yourself hours and hours of frustration.
19th Oct 2020 12:57 am
Jimmy_P
Member Since: 20 Oct 2020
Location: NSW
Posts: 4
hey all, ive read all 27 pages, and on page 24 Disco swede dscussed the square nut.. i have my module open, and cover off... managed that easy enough on the garage floor...
my module need unjamming, but as the square nut is inside and not outside the module i cant seen to achieve this. ive been told the square nut needs to be pulled out so i can unjam the thing. As i pull the LH cable to try and achieve the square nut moving out.. it seems impossible. Is there somthing i have to disconnect in order to get the square nut out.current state of the module is, manually unlatched, and jamed. i did adjust the shoes, but that been done in this condition, if i release all the adjustment from the LH wheel do you all think that will allow me to pull the cable out of the module..
thanks
20th Oct 2020 12:55 am
Jimmy_P
Member Since: 20 Oct 2020
Location: NSW
Posts: 4
After going to work and thinking about it.. im all sorted now, literally took 5mins to fix the jam.. thanks guys really appreciate all the info.
20th Oct 2020 1:50 am
Hamez
Member Since: 17 Nov 2020
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 1
I've been having handbrake issues for a while now. I've pulled the manual release a couple of times. The handbrake still works, unusually so I'm told.
Currently it applies as normal with a clonking noise at the end. It sounds like something is slipping on release. Any ideas what it would take to fix and approximately how long?
I can't be off the road too long, this is my only vehicle but the cost of having a new unit fitted is quite high.
Alternatively are there any reputable suppliers of recon units out there?
Any info would be more than welcome.
17th Nov 2020 8:07 pm
wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
@disco_mikey
The Link on the first Page "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcV6vCnib9o" is mit working.
Can you help me with another link to the Sound File?
My car sounds like this here
Is it the same?
21st Dec 2020 10:02 am
samg7512
Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12
Yes 100% the actuator, try to adjust your brakes correctly following bodsys brake bible before doing anything, poor adjustment can cause this, also leave your handbrake OFF don’t do what I did and had to cut my cables or your ballache turns into a BALLACHE!
22nd Dec 2020 10:44 am
wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
...problem is solved. Yesterday I was under the car and have opened the actuator box.
the both brake cables where not latched together and the winder was jammed. So I took a hammer and a chissel and hammered several times on the brass winder. After this I could use the unjam and relatch function of my diagnostic tool. (LR II)
Now it is working fine and I readjusted also the park brake shoes.
22nd Dec 2020 11:01 am
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1923
PAGODA
12th Jan 2021 8:44 pm
Jamietb
Member Since: 03 Jan 2021
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 20
EPB Help
Hi All,
I’m trying to fix my dad’s D3 for him but don’t really know much about them. The EPB has been working fine and then the other day it just made this loud grinding noise when trying to apply the brake and it popped up saying Parking Brake Fault on the dash.
I’ve had the rear disks off and given things a clean and then followed Bodsy’s Brake Bible to make sure they’re adjusted correctly but the issue remains.
Today I got it up on a lift and popped the cover off the EPB module to have a look and was expecting it to be fully extended / jammed but it looks to be about halfway out. I was a little confused though as the photos in the guide for this show a threaded rod to the right of the brass one and I don’t have this?
I’ve attached a photo to see if this is normal and also a video so you can see what happens / hear the noise. Not sure if it’s just a case of removing the gearbox on this and replacing the internals or if I should be doing something else?
Edit: It looks as if the threaded rod may be stuck inside the brass one?
Thanks,
Jamie.
6th Feb 2021 1:32 pm
Darcy390
Member Since: 31 Mar 2021
Location: Gledswood Hills
Posts: 1
&ab_channel=EmmanouilTatouris
31st Mar 2021 8:04 am
aaronb1013
Member Since: 06 Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 19
Similar to the last post, I heard a noise that sounded identical to this:
I went in and discovered that the brake has not been released (see photo). The brake appears to be in the engaged position. The epb light is flashing on the dash and when I release the brake (via the switch, not the emergency release cable) nothing happens. I wonder if the tension sensor is broken, but the electrical cable appears attached. Do I need to reset via ODBII? Anybody else in this situation? It seems as though when I pull the brake switch to set the brake it doesn’t know it is already engaged. Thanks in advance!
6th Apr 2021 11:16 pm
aaronb1013
Member Since: 06 Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 19
Forgot to included the photos in my last post. Please help me Disco_Mikey!
6th Apr 2021 11:39 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 567
Any tips on getting the rusty screws out?
Got 4 out so far, but what a pain!
Does anyone have a part number for replacement screws as I don't want to put them back in.
Edit: and for a lid, just incase anyone does damage one.
Half way to getting the cover off though, whoo hoo!
Last edited by jamez79 on 10th Apr 2021 11:42 am. Edited 1 time in total
9th Apr 2021 4:57 pm
jamez79
Member Since: 03 Sep 2018
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 567
Got the screws out using a flat headed screwdriver socket to fit in the rusted torx head.
To get the cover off, I went in via the o/a wheel arch and used a trim removal tool as it's bent, and levered the top corner away using the bend in the tool against the mounting point on the top of the epb module.
Once it was away slightly, I pushed a flat bladed screwdriver in the gap and then breathed out. then I just worked another screw driver in (a thin one) and kept prizing away along the top and side until the sealant gave in.
Once it starts to give in, you can get underneath and prize the bottom edge away, working along until it fails and comes away in your hand.
My brass piece was up against the square metal but a tap on the lower edge, aiming the force downward as beescribed by disco miley, and it started to turn.
I could just flick it down with a flat bladed screwdriver then to unwind.
Off to get the iid tool to unwind the rest of the way.... then to find the cause.
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then I just worked another screw driver in (a thin one) and kept prizing away along the top and side until the sealant gave in.
