Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Hi mini, thanks for that, I'm hopefully meeting a member off here today to read the codes, hopefully they should be relevant codes because I did a hard reset yesterday which would have cleared out any that were not active codes. Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
9th Dec 2015 10:15 am
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Well, points to mini and whoever else suggested steering sensor. Forum member rusty met me today and used his nanocom on the car. Turns out I had quite a few fault codes stored and after having a look through deleted them and recalibrated the steering angle sensor. All faults cleared and up she came to normal ride height. Took the car for a little drive but the second I turned the steering wheel "bong" blah blah blah. at least now I have a direction to work in. First port of call will be to check the steering angle sensor sleeve isn't rotating of its own free will, there seems to be quite a few related threads to that. I'll have the tracking etc done but that might be premature because I'm sure I have lower arm and maybe steering rod play which could possibly be the root cause anyway.
Top thumbs up to rusty though, top bloke and didn't want a single beer token for standing in the cold fiddling with the flying brick to go through the codes etc. I'm truly impressed with the guy and couldn't say thank you enough. This forum is the best ! Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
9th Dec 2015 6:28 pm
gruodiz
Member Since: 16 Nov 2011
Location: Klaipeda
Posts: 294
hillstrubl wrote:
I just went through 6 weeks of this. Very likely your problem is (in order of magnitude, expense and ease of repair):
1) Brake switch - buy one out of a 2009 Ford Focus to save about half the cost
2) Battery and/or connections
3) a small diameter red wire along the passenger (LHD) side door sill has broken connection (and likely some water ingress causing corrosion/this broken connection) - check the image attached.
Please feel free to PM me and I'll walk you through what had to be done to fix it, 300+ miles on "Moneypenny" so far and no chimes!
+1 for hillstrubl
two more LHD vehicles with same DTC and broken red wire under passenger's side carpet at A-pillar bottom.
Brake light switch circuit - signal compare failure
- Signal compare failure the stop lamp switch (BLS) and the brake-switch (BS) have shared the same output state at the same time
-Stoplamp-switch circuit fault
-Stoplamp-switch internal fault
I just went through 6 weeks of this. Very likely your problem is (in order of magnitude, expense and ease of repair):
1) Brake switch - buy one out of a 2009 Ford Focus to save about half the cost
2) Battery and/or connections
3) a small diameter red wire along the passenger (LHD) side door sill has broken connection (and likely some water ingress causing corrosion/this broken connection) - check the image attached.
Please feel free to PM me and I'll walk you through what had to be done to fix it, 300+ miles on "Moneypenny" so far and no chimes!
Hello, my LR3 is sinking!
I'm getting all kinds of faults. Did the usual brake light switch, replaced the battery, no help. Found this thread, started to take up the carpet and noticed it was soaking wet (it's been raining here)! There is about 1/2" of water sitting in the rocker panel where the wire harness goes. My question is, how do you get the piece of plastic off that covers the wiring that runs along the rocker panel? I have the trim piece off but there is another hard plastic piece that looks to be held in with white fasteners of some sort. Does the whole piece slide forward? This is on the right hand side (passenger LHD, drivers RHD). I suppose my sun roof drain is leaking... however I'd like to get the water out and make sure all the connections are good in this part of the wiring harness.
Turns out those clips are nothing special, LR part number:
LR013135
While I had read on another form to slide the plastic piece forward to remove it, which I did, it would be much easier to pop these clips. Also that is the only way to reinstall it.
Here are the codes I was getting (had some others but these are triggered by the broken wire):
Engine Petrol
P0504-64 (2A) Brake switch A/B correlation - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
P0504-29 (2A) Brake switch A/B correlation - General signal failure - signal is invalid
Vehicle Dynamic
C1A96-62 (0B) Brake lamp switch circuit - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure
( at 186204 km )
When you get these, sure check your brake light switch and battery but given the number of others who have had the wire break it's probably more likely this is the cause of your problems, especially if you have leaking sunroof drains. Both of mine were leaking. Drivers side was rotted and had fallen out of the hole in the body, passenger (side with air intake in my case) was blocked.
To get at it:
- remove B pillar lower trim
- remove sill cover trim (with Land Rover logo)
- remove trim where seat belt passes through seat base
- remove black trim around seat base. Front piece pops off, long side piece is held on by a Philips screw at rear, then there is a small torq's or security screw that holds the upper seat base trim at the rear, remove that, then with a lot of work you can wiggle out the lower trim piece.
- remove trim piece under dash, held on with two Philips screws, then the side kick panel (just pops off, uses same clips).
- now you can remove the large plastic piece that covers the wires. Use door panel tool to pop the clips.
Try not to break any of the clips... my dealer charged my over $8 each, I broke two on the side kick panel when reinstalling it.2006 SE 4.0 V6 with rear locker
10th Nov 2016 4:27 am
Weedyapl
Member Since: 24 Sep 2015
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 76
Thanks for info everyone i did below:
1. Scan found brake switch fault (all brake lights work fine)
2. Scan found no ABS wheel speed sensor faults (not wheel speed sensor)
3. Backprobed red wire with switch plugged in/key on close enough to solid 12v (red wire fine)
4. Replace brake light switch and all fixed (bought spare one for in car toolbox)
Might look into a spare wheel speed sensor as well for tool box.
Another reason to invest in even a cheap scantool/multi meter for your car otherwise you’re in the dark with this one.Aidan
=============
20th Feb 2018 12:40 am
johnhorgan
Member Since: 23 Sep 2019
Location: Richmond
Posts: 117
I had similar problems.
It was 2 chewed wires. 1 going to the anti roll bar control module (to the right above the throttle pedal) and 1 slightly lower in the loom.
I removed the plastic trim covering the loom, under the carpet, running along the inner sill between the drivers and passenger door.
That was where I found the 2 chewed off pieces of can wire. All I had to do then was find and repair the damage. It took me about 3 hours of searching to find where the pieces had been chewed from. They had travelled down and back from their originating position.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
at least now I have a direction to work in. First port of call will be to check the steering angle sensor sleeve isn't rotating of its own free will, there seems to be quite a few related threads to that. I'll have the tracking etc done but that might be premature because I'm sure I have lower arm and maybe steering rod play which could possibly be the root cause anyway.
