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Is an AGM battery essential on a 10 plate D4?
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Griffmaster
 


Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
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Is an AGM battery essential on a 10 plate D4?

Hi.

Have been looking at a new battery for my 10 plate D4 and am being advised that only an AGM battery will be good enough.

Something to do with Phone & Sat Nav type electronics?

Know of someone recently having a non AGM type fitted to a Range Rover and the Phone and Sat Nav has played up since.

Is it just a coincidence or does an AGM really matter?

Cheers.

Griffmaster.
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Post #121905717th Jan 2014 4:22 pm
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chopcat
 


Member Since: 08 Apr 2013
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the MY10 were made for Calcium I believe although now are all AGM so it is easier to get an AGM replacement which is what i have done on my 10 plate.

I have been advised the there is no reason not to.

CC
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Post #121906617th Jan 2014 4:42 pm
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stick
 


Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
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I put an AGM on.

I didn't tell the car that I had changed it, someone has asked on a thread this morning if you should. Anyone know how?
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Post #121912117th Jan 2014 6:02 pm
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DSL
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Post #121913517th Jan 2014 6:19 pm
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stick
 


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Post #121914117th Jan 2014 6:27 pm
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chopcat
 


Member Since: 08 Apr 2013
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twas not mentioned when I went to JFLR last week and showed them my AGM

CC
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Post #121914817th Jan 2014 6:35 pm
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farmerboy
 


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Surely electricity is electricity and as long as the voltage and amps are in the correct range then you will be alright? Or am I missing something Confused
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Post #121916317th Jan 2014 6:45 pm
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Bodsy
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Griff master, the AGM batteries tend to charge faster, they will also tolerate running down voltage better than the calcium ones.
You could probably get away with a std type of battery, but if you start getting strange errors, that's where I'd be looking first. Thumbs Up
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Post #121918017th Jan 2014 7:06 pm
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Robbie
 


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Yep agree with the above and with the later versions of the BMS on a D4 a decent AGM battery is pretty much essential.

AGMs work differently, as does the charging system on a D4; it bears no comparison to the D3. You are supposed to reset the BMS on installation of a new battery but the criticality of this appears to vary depending on the BMS version. Of course, some members have found getting any combination of battery and BMS to play nicely to be quite a challenge. The later D4s seem to be sorted though and my MY13 has been perfect which presumably gave them the confidence to go the whole hog and enable stop-start on MY14.

Thankfully the price of AGMs have come down whilst their capacity and ease of charging have increased. The are more difficult to test though and I would not use a traditional load tester on them.

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Post #121919517th Jan 2014 7:19 pm
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drivesafe
 


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Hi folks and sorry for hijacking the thread but has anybody got a link to specific info on the replacement AGMs being used.

I’ve been trying for sometime to find specs like maximum tolerable charging and operating voltages and maximum charge currents.

Any info or links would be appreciated.
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Post #122087020th Jan 2014 6:21 pm
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chopcat
 


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http://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/s6013-bos...-508-p.asp

is the one i have
CC
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Post #122088220th Jan 2014 6:29 pm
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CUCO
 


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Maybe is more a matter of software, mines was playing when new, but, as several new software version were flashed, and a faulty from new batt were changed too (because a bad batch, Q093 checked and changed it), never a single problem since.

And is a calcium type. Original LR branded one.

Still running happy and pulling strong.

Is funny to see the variation of voltage as you press the accelerator or braking or coasting in the hidden screen of sat nav, it educates you on eco-driving when you want to do "hypermiling". One note: the charging voltage is higher in cold weather and lower in high temps. So noticeable and so good for battery health to prolong its life.
  
Post #122177121st Jan 2014 10:39 pm
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armalites
 


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I've got one of these in my D3, 5 year warranty £137 delivered

batterymegastore.co.uk/product/AX+595+850/
  
Post #122182921st Jan 2014 11:53 pm
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