Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 61
How to: replace the vacuum pump
The vacuum pump has been mentioned many times in relation to the problem where oil is found in the brake servo. I was never really impressed by the brake performance of our D3. Upgraded to V8 brakes but really, it did not make a huge difference. Just sort of accepted it. Until I drove a friend's D4 the other week. Wow how fantastic the brakes worked on this car. I started reading on brake performance issues of the D3 and found the known problem of having oil in the brake servo wearing down the seals in the master cylinder and affecting brake performance. I checked for oil and oil was dripping from the vacuum pipe. And more oil down in the brake servo drum. As suggested before on this forum many of us might have this problem without knowing it. The problem is resolved by replacing the pump, vacuum pipes, brake servo and main brake cylinder and of course the hydraulic brake oil.
I looked but never found complete information with photo's on how to replace the vacuum pump. So let's go:
I think the RHD Discovery 3 has some advantages here as the LHD has its battery sitting right next to it with the cable looms sitting in the way. You start by removing the battery (LHD only) and undo the clips and remove the plastic side of the battery case that faces the engine.
Undo both vacuum pipes from the vacuum pump and move pipes out of the way.
Next you basically remove as much as possible to create space around the rear left top corner of the engine, seen standing in front of the car facing the engine. You remove the coolant pipe that runs across the engine by removing the top clamp on the side of the engine and moving the pipe to the right side of the engine.
This tool will beyour best friend for this and any future jobs that require undoing hose clamps:
You then have space to undo the bottom clamp of the hose on the top of the fuel cooler and remove the short hose as well.
Next remove the protection heat sheet that is located over the injectors. Cut the tie wraps holding the cable loom onto the plastic cable tray, unclip all associated connectors of the LH engine loom and remove the plastic cable tray.
On the back of the engine undo the nut of the black metal bracket that holds the cable loom. You will find the nut left of the bracket where you removed the coolant pipe. The cable loom it taped to the bracket so you need to carefully cut the tape loose. The bracket is held by a second bolt to the left close to the round breather cap. Here you only slightly undo the nut and pull back the bracket and remove it. You then move the cable loom from behind the engine so that it lays on top of the engine. The cable tray next to the battery is divided in 2 sections that will rotate if you pull. In this way you can move the cable loom even further away from the back of the engine.
Remove the plastic cover that sits in front of the heater hoses passing through the bulkhead.
Click image to enlarge
Next undo the high pressure diesel supply pipe. it runs from the back of the diesel supply rail to about the center of the engine close to the breather cap. The pipe is held by a small clamp with a bolt with a 8 mm head. undo the bolt, remove the clamp and move the fuel pipe to the right.
Remove the support pin for the sound proofing cover:
Vacuum pump removal:
before removal take close-up photo's on its mounting position. Mark where the arrow aligns with the back of the engine. The pump is held to the engine with 4 bolts. 3 bolts have a 10 mm head, one bolt that holds the upper bracket for the fuel pipe has a 8 mm head. 3 bolts can be undone laying on top of the engine. The lower bolt needs to be undone by laying under the vehicle (remember to work safely) and therefore the steel protection plate under the engine needs to be removed.
Note that this is a gloves-off bare hands and arms job as there hardly is any space behind the engine, so be prepared to sacrifice some skin. Start by undoing the 8 mm bolt on the top right corner of the pump, while holding the small bracket. Next is the second bolt slightly below the first bolt. Use a small 10 mm spanner. The bolt only needs to be undone slightly the rest can be done by hand. Then move on to the 3rd bolt that sits on the lower left corner of the pump. You can reach it with your left hand and supply the spanner from above with your right hand. Again just undo it a bit the rest you manage with your fingertips. As an alternative you can undo this bolt as well from underneath the vehicle. Maybe the easier alternative. Last bolt for sure from underneath the vehicle. You cannot see the bolt head but with your left hand you can reach up and find it. Put a 10 mm ring spanner over it and undo a few turns. Rest by fingertips.
Remove the pump by moving it over the injectors and up. Try not to move the pump drive.
Compare the position of the pump drive on old and new pump:
Click image to enlarge
New pump goes in the same way. Use a mirror and look at the position of the pump drive on the back of the engine and adjust the angle of the drive on the pump accordingly. It is a trial and error process of aligning the pump drive correctly. Use the mirror and you will get it right. Start by installing the lower 10 mm head bolt on the top right side of the pump losely. Then install the top rh 8 mm head bolt and bracket. The lower bolts can be installed from under the vehicle. Tighten all bolts.
Put the high pressure diesel pipe back in place and install the clamp on the rear pump bracket. Put the plastic cover back around the heater pipes near the bulkhead. Install the bracket of the cable loom and put the loom back on the bracket using tie wraps. Install the plastic cable tray starting by placing new tie wraps on the tray first.
Put the engine loom and connectors back in place. Reinstall fuel cooler hose and coolant pipe and fasten its bracket to the top engine bracket.
Click image to enlarge
Expect this job to take a full day. Not really difficult. Just timetaking and painfull
Will post a photo taken from underneath the engine showing the pump.
And here it is:
Last edited by dutchviking on 21st Jan 2019 9:32 am. Edited 3 times in total
14th Jan 2019 7:48 am
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1599
Thanks for posting. Has it improved your brakes?Stu
2016 D4 Landmark current
2022 Defender D300 SE Gone
D4 2014 XS Commercial - Gone
D4 2016 hse lux montalcino red - Gone
D3 2005 se java black - current
D3 2005 base manual - gone
D2 1999 TD5 E white - current
14th Jan 2019 9:37 am
DiscoJeffster
Member Since: 27 Feb 2016
Location: Perth
Posts: 204
Can they make it any more complicated and difficult to work on these things? Great effort.
14th Jan 2019 11:09 am
dutchviking
Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 61
Finished off reassembly of the left side of the engine and started with the removal of the main brake cylinder and brake fluid reservoir, followed by the brake servo. This process is easy compared to the previous job. You basically need to remove the complete plastic casing and tray that holds your spare battery and brake parts. You remove the nuts of the main brake cylinder and undo the nuts of the ABS modulator, pull the brake cylinder off the brake servo and lift the ABS modulator with all brake pipes still attached up so you are able to remove the underlying plastic tray (first part of the tray is easy to remove). Now you can undo both pipes on the brake cylinder and remove it after plumming the holes. In this way you keep from losing brake fluid.
Then you undo a clevis pin holding the shaft of the brake servo onto the brake pedal and remove 4 nuts holding the servo onto the bulkhead.
Next you can pull on the servo and remove it from the vehicle. In my case there was hardly any oil inside the servo. max 1 cm I would say. And the main brake cylinder looked after 11 years of service still as new.
So what harm the engine oil does and how it affects braking performance puzzles me now. Is it the membrane inside the servo that deteriorates because of the oil? Tomorrow night I'll finish up, bleed the system with the IID and we'll know if braking is improved...
Thinking about how little oil actually had collected in the brake servo it must be oil vapour that passes through the non-return valve and collects over the years at the bottom of the servo. Any thoughts?
Have now completed the job. Bled the brake system with the IID tool. Took a while but in the end the system was free of air. Used a bleeding kit with a non return valve so that you can do the job by yourself.
Braking has improved a lot. The pedal now feels very light to the touch, just like the Disco4 I drove the other day and the brakes are more responsive. Following Disco Mikey's example I used a new brake servo from a Supercharged RRS. Slightly larger than original so a little more vacuum.
14th Jan 2019 11:12 am
dutchviking
Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 61
To sum up: the braking really really has improved a lot. I think that when you observe that braking feels heavy that you should do the test and carefully pull out the vacuum hose from the brake servo. Then check for oil at the bottom. If found you need to do this job.
23rd Jan 2019 1:08 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1817
Well done, good write up. What was the part number of the larger servo?
29th Jun 2020 8:19 am
dutchviking
Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 61
The part number is SJJ500080
30th Jun 2020 7:08 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10673
Thanks for the guide.
You may want to consider setting the crank to TDC before starting. You may find the drive the aligns with the arrow on the pump.
It’s very easy to move the drive while removing.
18th Aug 2020 6:12 pm
Finnish
Member Since: 03 Jun 2021
Location: Hamar
Posts: 2
Hello and thanks for great information even though it's a decade ago!
Found this old thread when looking for information about oil in break servo.
My 06 D3 was in for a "recall"(?) for this problem in 2010 and has this new pipes with valve on.
I don't know how much parts else there was replaced.
Two weeks ago I heard this gurgling sound when breaking.
Sucked out 2 dl oil from the break servo yesterday and now everything seems to be good.
Great brakes and no problem(?).
My question is; are there need for replacing the vacuum pump, break servo and main brake cylindre?
How to figure out, in case?
And, do anyone know if the oil filling of the break servo is something that goes over years or is it "sudden"? Is it maybe the valve on the pipe that is broken or is it of course another problem - with the vacuum pump?
Very happy for quick response if anyone sees this!
8th Jun 2021 7:50 am
DL_Disco
Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: Ireland
Posts: 71
Hi
Just came across this today when researching brake problem.
I've used a vacuum pump sucked the oil out of the servo and in the process of ordering new
non return valve.
Braking seem better already but not a big difference.
15th Jul 2021 11:53 am
Hooch
Member Since: 18 Dec 2016
Location: Thatcham
Posts: 2
I'm having exactly the same problems as you Finnish with my 2006 D3! If anybody can advise if replacing the Vacuum Pump is necessary that would be very much appreciated! I'm hoping I can get away with just replacing the non return valve, the servo and the master cylinder!
Does anyone know where I can get a non return valve from or what the part number I need to search for is? Any links would be massively helpful
20th Jul 2021 3:08 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10673
Servo
SJJ500090 Brake Booster Kit Discovery
SJJ500070 Brake Booster Kit RRS Without Brembo
SJJ500080 Brake Booster Kit RRS with Brembo
Any of these servo's should do
Last edited by Pete K on 20th Jul 2021 3:49 pm. Edited 1 time in total
20th Jul 2021 3:39 pm
Hooch
Member Since: 18 Dec 2016
Location: Thatcham
Posts: 2
Many thanks for the speedy response Pete! Much appreciated
20th Jul 2021 3:48 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10673
It's not usual to change the master cylinder.
This is what should be done for the modification.
Change spring/ball in the vacumn pump (in situ)
Fit dual pipe to pump
Change servo if oil is present in servo
If you don't have 2 pipes connecting to the vacumn pump, take it to a UK dealer and say you have brake problems and Recall Action Number: P017 hasn't been done
20th Jul 2021 3:53 pm
highlands
Member Since: 10 Jan 2010
Location: NW Highlands
Posts: 5098
...and then wait for them to tell you their system says it has and thus refuse the recall action.
At least that's what happened to me.Black 05 TDV6 HSE Auto
Grey 05 TDV6 HSE Auto (Gone)
54 TDV6 SE Man (killed by me )
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