Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Use a selection of different tools to remove the crossoverpipe manifold nuts . Spray these with a release oil prior to removal.
You will notice the bolts are rounded to the front leaving a small surface area for you to shift them, where possible use a hex head type socket as theses will be less prone to slip as opposed to a multi point type.
Pivot head ratchet spanners are useful but wont fit on to all the bolts due to the bend of the pipe.
Dumpy ring spanners are also use full.
There is very little room to move making removing the two upper bolts on the front engine manifold side a slow process so having fine increment ratchet on your tools will help.
Once the six manifold nuts are removed then remove the four mounting bracket bolts. The cross over pipe will now be free to remove but before you do if the heat protection cover around the COP is damaged from the pipe blowing wrap some cable ties around it or electrical tape to prevent it from getting caught as you are removing it.
Remove the manifold sections of the crossover, then slowly and carefully slide the COP out the far side, of the vehicle.
Last edited by Trex-on on 1st Sep 2014 10:35 pm. Edited 2 times in total
29th Aug 2014 10:27 pm
Jimmy H
Member Since: 21 Jun 2014
Location: London
Posts: 9
Fantastic write-up and piccies Trex
I'm sure there'll be lots of members that will find it invaluable and Should give me the confidence to give it a bash....just need to psych myself up
29th Aug 2014 11:28 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Hope it will be of use. just got a couple last bits to add but as good as done!
30th Aug 2014 2:01 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Once the crossoverpipe is removed, then remove both gaskets. you will want to replace these.
You can see the split in the flexible section to the left hand side of the photo.
Last edited by Trex-on on 1st Sep 2014 10:37 pm. Edited 2 times in total
30th Aug 2014 2:08 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
You will also want to replace the studs in the Engine manifolds and also fit two new ones in to the new Crossoverpipe.
In the above photo you can see the far side EGR cooler and the manifold attaching it the the engine manifold.
Last edited by Trex-on on 1st Sep 2014 11:26 pm. Edited 4 times in total
30th Aug 2014 2:12 pm
GoBeyond
Member Since: 12 Jan 2009
Location: Eddleston
Posts: 858
Really good job ! I'm well impressed with what you've achieved There is no such thing as bad weather, only the wrong clothes.
30th Aug 2014 2:36 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
The new Crossoverpipe and gaskets.
Once the new studs are set then fit the new crossoverpipe manifold gaskets, your can now fit the new crossoverpipe.
Feed it in the same way it came out. Fit both manifold sections, and using new bolts, bolt lousily so to align the centre section on to the gearbox mount for bolting.
Tighten the manifold bolts up in an even manner to allow a even distribution of pressure over the gaskets.
So now the hard part is done, the Crossoverpipe is fitted,rebuild the rest of your Disco in a reverse fashion. You will know your way around your Disco a lot more and it will go back together a lot faster.
Remember to remove any rags you have placed under the EGR.
Replace any coolant that was lost during removal of the EGR, and make sure it is bled throughout the system.
In my case after a recently fitted new clutch I found that the crossoverpipe had not been bolted to the gear box mount at all causing it's failure from vibration!
So i hope this will help to whomever will try!Best of Luck and Please add any useful thoughts or ideas.
Last edited by Trex-on on 2nd Sep 2014 12:55 am. Edited 2 times in total
30th Aug 2014 6:50 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
GoBeyond wrote:
Really good job ! I'm well impressed with what you've achieved
Thanks GoBeyond.. i see your located just down the road.
1st Sep 2014 11:31 pm
Daedalus
Member Since: 21 Sep 2014
Location: London
Posts: 16
Trex On - fantastic instructions on a complex looking job. One of the best write ups on the site
6th Jan 2015 11:39 pm
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Kind words Daedalus. I hope it helps the community.Thank you.
7th Jan 2015 3:19 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Great write up
What time scale would you put on this job? Think mines going/gone,i'm getting a more noticeable whiff of exhaust gas when stood next to it on the drivers side and seems to be coming inside through the vents etc,just trying to weigh up whether a good indie(Think my mate geoff. might shy away from this one!)would do it in situe or if its got to go and be done body off style, but if the latter,where do you stop? 05MY 100k miles on her- new turbo?new brake lines etc etc
Rgds
Darrell
22nd May 2015 8:27 am
Trex-on
Member Since: 23 Oct 2013
Location: Peebles
Posts: 65
Hi Darrel.
If u look through the driver/ of side front wheel arch using a torch you may be able to see the problem providing its the Cross over pipe, but to make sure if you remove the engine shield from underneith you will be able to reach up and check the COP using your hand, while the engine is running. Generally it is the flexable sections that fracture or burn out.
You are looking at a good days work, doing this how described providing you have decent tool that have fine ratchets since some of the COP bolts and heat shields have little space to allow you to shift the tool, so these have to be shifted in small incraments at a time. It's definiately not the easiest job doing this in situ but will save you a small fortune!.. The pipe is around £500 and can be purchased with a forum members discount Through D3 by contacting the Big one.
Best of luck.
Regards Kyle
22nd May 2015 12:05 pm
treeiup
Member Since: 26 May 2015
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 74
This is one of the most frustrating jobs I think I have ever undertaken, 5degree ratcheting on one bolt and the bracket is slow progress! I was helped by the fact the last owner/mechanic didn't bother refitting the bracket to the pipe after patching it up with 3 different welds
I drafted in swmbo to locate the two top bolts at the cost of dinner, but those little hands did the trick! I used most of my socket attachments all together to tighten them up.my06 D3
8th Jul 2015 8:15 pm
aman
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: London
Posts: 285
Hi Kyle
Should the crossoverpipe be replaced when the car gets to a certain age or milage, or just when it fails?
Is it obvious to know when it fails?
Will it always end up failing or do some go on for very high milages?
Thanks
Trex-on wrote:
Hi Darrel.
If u look through the driver/ of side front wheel arch using a torch you may be able to see the problem providing its the Cross over pipe, but to make sure if you remove the engine shield from underneith you will be able to reach up and check the COP using your hand, while the engine is running. Generally it is the flexable sections that fracture or burn out.
You are looking at a good days work, doing this how described providing you have decent tool that have fine ratchets since some of the COP bolts and heat shields have little space to allow you to shift the tool, so these have to be shifted in small incraments at a time. It's definiately not the easiest job doing this in situ but will save you a small fortune!.. The pipe is around £500 and can be purchased with a forum members discount Through D3 by contacting the Big one.
Best of luck.
Regards Kyle
11th Sep 2015 11:42 am
Iain_B
Member Since: 05 Jan 2015
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 10
I replaced the crossoverpipe on my wife's D3 with the body on. This write up certainly helped a lot. Ittook a while, a day to get it off, and another day and a half to get it back on. I found it easier to remove the whole exhaust system and cross member to access the LH side bolts, and removed the fuel filter to access the RH side bolts. The worst nut to get to is the one on the stud which is on the RH crossoverpipe flange - had to bend a spanner to get it to fit.
I didn't get a new pipe, but replaced the flex joints with braided ones. I took the old pipe to an exhaust place, and got them to fit new one. They didn't allow for the bellows to flex so it ended up about 5mm short. I had to cut of an re-weld the joints myself. I also got the pipe stuck somehow and that took about an hour to sort out - seems you need the transmission to be just the right height to allow the pipe to twist as you pull it out.
The walls of the crossover are pretty thick, easy to weld so in hindsight I could have saved quite a bit by doing the replacement joints it myself. The exhaust shop made up a jig to ensure the bolts all lined up, so could have done that myself.
I also wrapped the pipe with a ceramic exhaust tape to replace the old heat insulation. Sealed it with ceramic manifold paint.
If I ever had to do it again, I would get a blank off plate for the EGR cooler , and not put it back, it is a real pain to fit and have already blanked off the EGR ports. I think I could do it in a day now that I know what to do.
In the end, the whole fix including new gaskets, studs and nuts etc was $350 AUD, a lot cheaper than the dealer quote of $2500 or independent quote of $1600 using a second hand part. After 500km, it all seems good, no black smoke, power back to normal and nice and quiet.Discovery SE TDV6
Defender 110
Discovery Tdi
Unimog U1250 Expedition Truck
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