Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Bonnet Catch Service
After a particularly alarming incident during the strong winds this week when my bonnet ( which hadn't been opened for 1500 miles ) suddenly unlatched at the nearside whilst in lane 3 of the M61 so I decided to investigate and put an end to the bonnet popping saga.
I should have recognised the warning signs, it had also become a little awkward to close, it would latch fine on the drivers side but the nearside catch just didn't seem to grab the D loop the same and despite filing the D loop, I was having to slam the bonnet more and more often.
Here's what you need to do if your nearside catch doesn't always work correctly:
The bonnet latch is made up of primarily two components, a claw and a cam. The claw grabs the D loop and the cam holds the claw down.
Click image to enlarge
The problem with this system is it must be kept clean otherwise problems like popping open and having to slam the bonnet will become more and more frequent.
Here's the offside catch before cleaning:
Click image to enlarge
And here's the problematic nearside catch after cleaning:
Click image to enlarge
You need to clean both catches ( I used WD40 and a stiff brush ) but pay particular attention to the right hand side of both catches ( that's the passenger side on r/h drive cars ). What happens with the nearside catch is crud builds up between the catch wall and the cam which prevents the cam from moving back into the fully latched position. This means the cam will only "half latch" the claw and a decent tug or gust of wind can spring the bonnet up.
This is where the crud builds up and prevents the cam from locking the claw down correctly:
Click image to enlarge
Once cleaned, you can check operation by placing a screwdriver in to represent the D loop:
Click image to enlarge
Give the screwdriver a sharp push down and the claw will latch shut.
Click image to enlarge
If the catch wont grab the screwdriver continue cleaning the mechanism until you have smooth operation.
Tip: You can release the catch by prising the cam at the top until it releases the claw.
Once you're happy you've dislodged all the crud and the catch operates smoothly, try closing the bonnet, I was amazed how well mine now operates.
I purposely DID NOT grease the catch because this will trap more crud over time and I'll be back to where I was so occasionally spraying both catches with WD40 may be the order of the day instead.
I'm sure this will be helpful to somebody.Mods:
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Last edited by Narpy on 29th Sep 2017 5:40 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Jun 2017 5:10 pm
euangibson
Member Since: 24 Dec 2010
Location: Borders
Posts: 11027
On the flip side, mine wouldn't release for much the same reasons
It was a 2-man job to get it open (one pulling the lever inside the car while the other yanked the bonnet up)
It's amazing how much crud gathers in the latches so yes, I now clean and grease mine more regularly
I use a citrus degreaser but the overall effect is much the same 👍"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool,than to speak out and remove all doubt" ?.....what rubbish...
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9th Jun 2017 5:34 pm
NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
When you sprayed with WD40 where does all the gunk/oil/cud go, can it be collected from below?
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
TBH Nick it went everywhere but can be collected below if you strategically place a few rags below the catch before you start spraying and scrubbing. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
9th Jun 2017 6:26 pm
ds23man
Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Ainum
Posts: 227
Just replace them, they cost nearly nothing.
9th Jun 2017 6:55 pm
NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
But I have loads of half empty WD40 cans in the garage so it will literally cost me next to nothing to clean them
True, well done Ian good shout. I will have a look at mine tomorrow as i have had trouble and need to give it a bit of welly on one side The happiest of people don't necessarily have the best of everything;
They just make the best of everything they have.
TBH Nick it went everywhere but can be collected below if you strategically place a few rags below the catch before you start spraying and scrubbing.
Wisdom is the knowledge you gain just after you needed it ... or something like that .
Dean
====================================
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
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Really well presented
Mine gets this tomorrow
Many ThanksBREXIT - done properly.
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Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
I'm going outside right now to clean mine - the passenger is a nightmare to shut. Thanks for the tips (and reminding me to look at it)
9th Jun 2017 9:19 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
I am replacing the offside latch tomorrow. The micro switch failed; in their wisdom, LR decided to change the design so now in order to get a £1 micro switch you have to buy the latch as well for £23. Hoping both switch and latch last until D3 finally gives up in about 20 years!2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
9th Jun 2017 11:12 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Bill Gates' Wallet wrote:
Just replace them, they cost nearly nothing.
At £23 each, I'll be cleaning them every time. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
Last edited by Narpy on 10th Jun 2017 9:58 am. Edited 1 time in total
A complete strip-down to get to the cables.....is there a way of getting some lubrication to these ?
my bonnet catch "works" but on closing I have to push the bonnet release cable back a few times to reset the mechanism/s.
It's as though one or both cables sticking.
What are the thoughts on the bestest lubricant for the catches ?
I've cleaned off the white waxy "goo" & used some really sticky synthetic oil I have...? (Omega I believe)BREXIT - done properly.
Right now ...We need Government - not Politics
Save the Dipstick Flagbearer-keep it simple, less likely to fail campaign-agenda items:Starting Handles, Acetylene Lamps.
Founder: Dipsticks-R-Us Inc
D3 HSE-perfectly formed, passenger friendly...has real DIPSTICK
Jag XK-but sadly no DIPSTICK...HUGE design fault
FL2 has DIPSTICK..."real comfort in rear seats"
VW Golf wondermobile (?)..has real DIPSTICK
Morris Minor..original DIPSTICK technology..and a real KEY.
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